R31Nismoid

OVERALL RESULTS: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/384684-november-deca-results-overall-deca-championship/

Well we also do give people a "nudge" and tell them they "should" come along. The general populace however usually do not know who has won what for a lot of the other awards (Club awards, MSport etc) and there are always other people that that come just because its a good social night irrespective of awards or not. So its sorta a secret, but sorta not - depending on where you sit in among it all. Works best for us and our members as Dec meeting always has 80+ people usually.

As you said if you refreshed a few times it worked, Im thinking antivirus or a local PC problem of some description. Unfortunately what it is, i do not know. Cyantic Import is fine - I use it, and have since the day it was loaded

One thread, in one section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/384435-jvc-50wx4-car-head-unit-mp3cd-tuner-sub-out-usb-5-weeks-old-120/page__p__6132566__fromsearch__1#entry6132566 Is more than enough. Please cease from creating multi threads.

clear all temp files, cookies and so on. or try a different browser

There is no need, and it would border on the impossible as you would realistically need two. Try fit that with all the twin turbo plumbing. And as it's not required, offers no performance gain... Begs the question of why?

What did the car make with stock turbos? at what boost? Same dyno?

GTR & GTS-t = not same. GTR intake piping has support internally.

RE: initial question, you are talking RB25 so 5000-8500rpm is out of the question for a stocker Only two choices, and those two choices will depend on turbo selection over and above anything else. It's funny you see people save $700 on a turbo/manifold, so they can spend $700 on a plenum. Spending the money on the turbo/manifold will always reap better benefits as its the most critical part of the setup on a FI application as the low-mid level modification marker. Only once you start making serious beef do things like head work and so on come into the equation, and that is simply to the the substancially larger budget. Not saying this is a bad idea, i say go for it, especially if you've got the tools to make it economically (of course the time as well). *BUT* if it means you are going cheaper on turbo selection to fund it, that is going backwards. Remember they are generally a copy of someone else who's already done it Or so similar there really isn't anything in it design "difference" wise.

Out of the ordinary and not being set right are often two different things. Not saying they have got it wrong, but too often people have "double checked", only to take it for a second opinion and bam - in 30mins it's fixed with it being checked again.

How do people know if they need to come along to pickup something? Bit harsh to "make" people come just to find out. Plus if we don't let people know, then we end up having to post/send out trophies to people for the next 6 months, infact i think we've still got some from 12 months ago that people haven't claimed/dont respond

Neither suits you car because they are External gates. You turbos are Internally wastegated. -5 turbos do not require any modifications/upgrades to the internal gates, they work fine as is.

It'd be 1.28 or 1.44 for that size turbo, if you intended on making the power. 1.15 if you wanted to pull response in, but loose a bit up top. 1.01 i don't think is even worth worrying about. What has the builder/turbo people said about it? What do you want from the setup?

When the CAT was dropped, did that mean the entire exhaust was dropped when the run was done? Ie - Front pipe ONLY connected? Agree with the others though, check the cam gears belt etc. Most instances of stock-ish cars not making power is when cam gears are installed and they are out, or incorrectly set etc.

We do have "spoiler" tags you know I've edited for ya haha. But ye RE: Mage Guild Quests - Im not using Magic for half of them. Just bashing my way through for EXP/Enchanted items so i can buff my armour/weapons. So IMO they are quite handy to do even if you aren't Mage driven.

Took me a lot of frustrating re-attempts to workout the best method for Dragurs lol. Anything upto a level 4 Dragur - Melee is fine. Anything higher is flame/run technique. Just google if you want to know the levels of creatures so you can easily tell which ones to So i carry a full Stell Armour suit and Apprentice Robes of Destruction - perfect for any situation.

I sorta just stumbled across it with Destruction as low level flame as a destruction spell is shit. BUT - I upgraded Destruction twice to the point of "dual cast", and spells are MUCH stronger. Chews magika faster, but its ok as enemies die fast as which is a better result when you have 5-6 enemies hurtling at ya. A general "boss" tactic i use vs the Dragur Dreadlords especially is shoot 2 seconds/run, shoot 2 seconds/run. It's the only way to beat them as I simply cannot win hand-to-hand unless i have 11ty potions for H/S which gets annoying using all the time. Also works as the Fire spells still "burn" for a few seconds after so constantly hammering them with Fire i found was less effective. It just drained magika faster. This tactic also works on Mammoths, Trolls & Dragons in close range Also high level Dragurs have their "power" hit. It'll often critially strikes you = instant dead even with shield. Hence no H-2-H unless i have allies with me to draw their attention. For the Shouts: You have to hold it down and "charge" it. Pressing it does the first, Pressing for 2 seconds does the 2nd and holding it down until it releases does the "uber" one which sends shit flying like they are leaves

Oh really? (on phone, didnt load the pic haha)

^ Totally agree as usual Nik The EPA laws for the most part are in many cases from 1992. Very out of touch with the real world as it stands today. However reforms simply won't come until the Gov't realise there is money in it. As there most certainly is - do what WA do with the "mod permit" scheme. Each mod(s) require certs/permits as long as they are within reason. Then charge money for such certs/inspections. Gov't would make a fk'en fortune and we could all drive legally on the streets (again, within reason) Sadly it is the muppets that ruin it for everyone else. People putting blown/injected V8s into Cortinas case point number one. They just were not built to have 800hp motors in them and a LOT of people dodge the conversions up. Of course some do it right, but they are always a minority as it costs money to do a proper conversion mechanically. Oh and many congrats btw mate

Funny your vote looks the same as it did last year Nick!

Well do you have O2 sensors? If yes - on. If not - off. Pretty straight forward That said you do not need to have them, my tune doesn't utilise them. Previous setup/tune I was getting 700kms to a tank on FWY. Now only around 450kms so obviously the tune needs more attention without using O2 sensors. Also to note, if you find your idle is a bit up/down it can be O2 sensor(s) failing. Turning them off is a quick way to confirm/deny they are the issue as if you turn them to OFF an idle stabilises - you know they are failing/dead.

I'm Imperial... So predominately Hvy armour & Single/Double handed weapons. Also a nice gold bonus when searching, so I'm always mega rich so I've abused the wandering "trainer" people 5/5. I got a block/strike ability that works awesome for most encounters. - Put up the shield - Walk over to attacker - Bash then with the sheild which knocks them back. - Then hack into them REPEAT. Works especially well in hallways when exploring mines/quests. Once you get up close to even high level spell casters, they barely get a spell onto you so you absolutely smash them. Only issue sometimes is getting close as advanced guys have "frost" which slows you down massive. But i have a shield which reduces frost attacks so i get over to them with minimal damage. Also have lvl 3 SHOUT for Unrelenting Force. Soooo handy... - Knocks enemies to the FLOOR for 3-4 seconds - Does Dmg as well. So you use it and just bash the bejebus out of em even for big boss types on quests. Funnily though my Destruction level is 20 points higher than anything else. Mainly because of Dragurs, being weak as piss to Fire, I just double-handed flame them and they die in seconds, very handy on a lot of quests. Probably the best thing to upgrade early IMO. I'm level 20-21 at the moment. Been basically walking/exploring the map heaps and talking to get quests. Going to start tonight actually going through them all as I have around 35-40 outstanding and most of the major map points located so i can fast travel easily