R31Nismoid

definitely the GTX3076seems like the perfect choice. 400rwkw is a lot of turbo for a 25rwd car even with the best setup. the 3076 on paper looks to be 340rwkw on pump... so around 450rwhp which would work nice as you have the lighter car. what will happen though is you'll have so much more response and power range it would almost certainly be faster. also to consider such a change in setup will also mean suspension and other alterations to get the most out so it might not be faster 'out of the box' so to speak as a laggy-ish 700hp turbo to a much nicer 600hp(approx) will be quite a change.

a few of the cars were 2heads, not many. mine ran stock items too, same with guilt-toy.

yeah but you can get legal, and then take them to court. we can't get legal, so you'll never win.

he wants to avoid legal issues. that item is stand out like dogs balls obvious. a good condition 26. -9 turbos, 300rwkw easily... and virtually defect free vs a similar result, and more headache then its worth. if you've never lived/dealt with the Vic rules, police and EPA then you rarely appreciate just how bad it is. i was defected not 6 weeks ago for semi slicks... which were totally legal. end of the day the Vic police do what they want, thanks to Steve Bracks and his bullshit 'hoon' campaigns.

32/33 same. 34 = not same. due to the coil setup i believe.

no one can guess. email GCG, MTQ etc and find out. they might not even know as they might not be allocated stock until Q1-Q2, 2011

It's on a dyno. What some testing did down here was find that cars looked better on the graph, but on the circuit they were slower. Hence a lot of Racepace cars all went back to stock cams, a few had poncams etc.

And no. Not anyone can tune a F-Con. You need the HKS software that only approved tuners are supplied with etc. There is like one tuner per state in Australia, effectively limiting you unnecessarily. Yeah, kinda missed the point I mean is it an ebay special??? (I suspect it is).

1. What is "S/S"? Sounds like some laggy/cheap ebay rubbish to me. It will crack, and then you will cry. Put the stock manifold back on. 2. Ditch the F-Con. No one can tune them. PowerFC of Nistune are the cheapest options. As for turbo - same as everyone else. Please read the Dyno results thread. There are plenty of turbo options LOL stage 1 3.5k, all they do is a flash tune and CHANGE OVER injectors. WTF? Thats no more than $1800 on a epically bad day... Some people just take it in the ass when it comes to off-shelf stuff like that.

price or lock

OK so i spent a few hours reading today... And have come to the follow conclusions thus far: ALL ECU’s must be tested for compliance, LA2 clearly states this is a requirement, so its full ADR. You have two distinct elements of engineering to deal with as a part of LA2. 1. The replacement motor itself. 2. Emission testing the RB30DET with all the aftermarket parts. It must go via the LT3 & LT4 as a part of LA2 Now as it stands. Part 1 - “LA2” is nothing more than a simple VASS Cert in Victoria. Costing around $600 and then you are done. Piece of cake really, and exactly how I had my RB26 registered into the GTSR. Part 2 of LA2 is the absolute mongrel, paperwork minefield and overall waste of time. You need to get the full ADR testing, and then the same for the exhaust. That is a massive amount of time and money. Once you do that, and only once you do that – are you fully engineered and totally safe from defects. OR you can do just Part 1, just like everyone else. As it’s just a “VASS”. Issue is you can’t modify and as soon as you do, it ends up with the EPA getting all funky on you time and time again. Given you want to use a heap of obviously mods, you will get reamed, and they will probably take photo’s of your engine bay. If you use a 26 head, you’ll basically be undetectable with only ECU/Injectors requiring a swap… And that’s IF they pick it… As there are ways around that of course. I'll do some more reading on ALL the ADR stuff over the next 2-3 weeks, it'll take me a while given I've got functions/booze sessions almost everyday from now till NYD

Possible that very very late R33 S2's got them, but either way its nothing special as is

stop posting WTB in the For Sale area, or i'll remove your posting access.

Dont post illegal stuff here again

Post your dyno sheet in the dyno thread Pretty sure he had a good idea then. Although, he actually ended up with Garrett -9s I believe, same as BWRGTR So smaller/more responsive again than the -5s!

A chop? What are you - 15? Just look @ the results mate. They speak for themselves. Took me only a couple pages to find some -5s results with RPM (to make it easy) 230rwkw @ 4700rpm http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=303940 ~280-300 @ hubs, 4700rpm. So take 30kw off if you want, and that’s around 250rwkw (admittadly its got a bit more work the result #1) http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e50/sleeprgtr/dyno.jpg 518s = 140rwkw @ 4500rpm as you said. -5s = 230rwkw @ 4700rpm (easiest to work off the graphs once you look at them you'll see why) For an extra $1000 you get almost 100rwkw extra @ virtually the same RPM. Speaks for itself really. The lemans turbos are every bit as bad as people say they are.

if you are putting in a stock 26, simple... use a factory 26 ECU. it'll be fine to drive around on and just out the PFC under your bed till you need it again

why don't youjust look at the dyno results thread? it will soon show you that -5s are more responsive than 581/lemans, and make more power. The real crux of the issue is not what happens on a dyno either. It's when you are on the street. in-between gear changes and so on. newer turbos with ball bearing centers, newer/lighter wheels will flick back up on boost faster. Something you'll never really be able to tell from a dyno sheet. People only think 1980s designed turbos are good because they've never had newer tech ones and simply have not seen it for themselves. Justify it however you want, fact is the lemans turbos in this day and age, are rubbish

R33 has the better chassis. For track, that is the winner. Similar question was asked not all that long ago: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/324495-r32-gtr-to-r34-gtr/page__hl__which+gtr

Sounds like the old "Nisma" workshop re-badged, somewhere that is most certainly not reputable. Honestly you are better off paying for a full Racepace inspection. Get it comp tested as well etc etc. Bit of a effort but its either 20-30k or $500 I recently had a full stateroads inspection for a NSW car, best $300 i'd spent as it stopped me from buying it and wasting my cash.

I'd settle for IM240 lol, that'd be easy like NSW! Well he has plenum, T/B, FMIC, turbo... that would then mean exhaust matching issues and all the old intake piping etc. So it's a good 5-6hr job IMO as it all needs to come off. And then repeat, 10-12hrs total. Then you break an exhaust stud or something on a Sunday and have to wait to get it out... It sounds simple but sometimes shit just goes wrong :| Even doing it once is enough to make you question the point of it all.

pretty much sums it up. you cannot get EPA approval without going the FULL emissions that, basically like a new car. its not like other states where you can do a 15-20mins test on a dyno. hence big singles are obvious, and get rapedand you then have to pull ALL the mods off. use a 26 head with replacement low mounts = cannot tell. you just get pinned for ECU and injectors, a 30min swap. not bad for a potential 400-450rwkw. getting a 'stock' 26 engineered is ridiculously easy hence that's why i did it for my GTSR and took the 25 out.

ah shit... defectable... lol. new phone dictionary mmm another state gets you out of it, but if you keep getting pulled over/noted, you can end up with shit anyway because its 3 months, and you have to change it i think. although ibelieve you can be defected, i mean logically you couldn't say... drive around on bald tyres just because you are interstate. someone would need to confirm that i guess as I'm not 100%

so the point is, manifold/gate, doesn't matter from an engineering point of view as you are still highly obvious/delectable. i had a GT30 low mounted and virtually unnoticeable, and still failed. Put a 26 in, instant pass.

As you are from Melb, you do realise that you'll never get a GT35 engineered? and if you do, you'll fail any EPA by default simple due to the larger turbo which will stand out like dogs balls... let alone all your other mods. If you wanna get engineered/legal, the only real way is a 26 head and use low mounts. even then its technically illegal, but impossible to pick/spot/defect.