R31Nismoid

Happy to help, PM me details. I can do Monday arvo no problem.

There are plenty of results mate - you need to make that decision for yourself. With a proper OEM -IG housing, street application only and running boost (not pussy footing around with 10psi), results would suggest they work fine.

I'll one-up Birds for tightass-ism. I use morning fresh detergent, and just a simple hand polish if needed - see below example Paint job @ this point was straight off the gun, totally un-sanded/cut. Just simply washed with good ole dishie detergent and chamois dried That said though i did see Waxit (SAU Trader) for some products to clean the exhaust/fuel stains off the rear of the GTR, but that is a different story (product worked very well I must say).

And as i said - look @ Al. The turbo was at maxed with 320rwkw on PULP and has never had any of the issues you are talking about. When you see the car torching a set of tyres sliding across a skidpan with a lot more heat into things than you'd see driving around, can't be all bad

300rwkw at under 20psi vs 400rwkw at over 20psi. You really want to say that more power, more heat, much higher turbo RPM - that it's relevant? If there was really "such a problem", the internet would be alive with issues being reported all over. A couple of people having issues, convinced it's just the turbos problem? Not me.

I cannot see the relevance here at all when you are flogging a totally different horse. 100rwkw more, in a car who's use was not a daily driver - two ends of the football field unfortunately.

3076R in .82 on a 3ltr - is the cost is no problem option. Have a look @ results from "Al" - that basically sums it up in one graph. ~320rwkw on PULP. No need for E85 on a 3ltr with a good tune as you don't need to stuff it with boost. The response and stonking mid-range of it was absurd. If you were going E85 IMO you'd actually get away with a smaller turbo, problem is though the exhaust housing would be too small as .82 is really the smallest you'd go on a 3ltr so you'd easily make 300rwkw on E85 with a 3076, would be quite a low boost level as well.

Sound the same, it's a proper external gate. Neither is correct, neither is wrong. It just depends on 3 factors really - space, cost, heat. Simple as that really.

If you can tell a quality of an oil just by looking at it, you sir, should look at a career with News Ltd. doing their horoscopes. I've used Castrol Edge motor oil for 8 years now, LSX90 in the diffs - no issues over 5 motors/3 cars. If the bite of the diff is too harsh, just put some Penrite friction modifier in and that should sort it out. A friend of mine was actually in oils & oil sales for many years. It's interesting to have a chat about all things brands.

Just the cluster, no centre gauges, they are spoken for. Cant remember which version it was

Given parking in a car park being something car enthusiasts have been doing for probably 40 years. Love the name change people are using nowadays, hopefully it makes it into the dictionary with something along the lines of: hard-parked - new term coined by new scene kiddy, flat capped, skinny jean wearing homos - to be "individual". More commonly referred too as "parking your at a car meet"

I've got a cluster NFI what KMs are on it though

The exhaust wheel is larger, whilst the trim is smaller - trim being such a small difference while the wheel is larger - should flow more, but it's hard to say. They should be very responsive in a .48 housing but will most certainly fall over given -9s fall over by 7500rpm with their housing/turbine/compressor combination. At a stab maybe all over by 6500, 7000 at a stretch. Given the rear housing is smaller & larger comp wheel, it'll be interesting to see if there might even be issues with surge as positive pressure is attained in higher gears/low RPM. Similar to what a Garrett -10 but earlier given the size differences and would probably go away a lot easier. Honestly I wouldn't waste time, it's all quite a bit of guess work and if it doesn't work - what do you do then? Spend more labour to get them out and swap? Probably why they were for sale in the first place.

If only all jobs were advertised for what they really are in the world! Amazing what you can find out with a bit of digging isn't it? Have similar such methods for dealing with SAU scammers & other things. Funny thing is that most of them simply are not that intelligent to begin with so information can come thick and fast on occassion. I tell people sometimes just to google their own name/phone number. It's hilarious sometimes how much stuff is returned as a result.

Smart stuff spend 1.1mil Yen (14k) on an overseas engine as opposed to 14k locally and at least have some level of recourse if something went wront

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/248716-video-links-thread-eg-youtube-post-it-here/

N1 motors simply are not worth the money. Still have all the inherent oiling issues. The blocks, arguable if they are actually stronger as well

LSX90

yep, on a prepped strip = game changer. clutch will play up again if you try it, and it now has limited life for general duties

lol not yet... Think if China wasn't bubbling along so well in recent times, we'd be in quite a bit of Financial strife as a country. Some of that would certainly be car part manufacture, how much, can of worms

Hit the nail on the head, it'll only get better as well. A lot of the contracts are pretty closely guarded for obvious reasons, and the factories do understand that saying something will mean work is taken elsewhere - but some of them will sell items "on the side" if you know where to look, all of it without labels/branding and they strangely are identical to items that would come in a labelled/branded box if you get them shipped and compare

If you think the majority of the Jap (or US) parts are actually made somewhere other than China/Thailand (ie. Japan/UK/USA), you'll be in for a bit of a shock if you do more digging more of your own research on a bulk basis. It's simple business - do what the competition are, or go bust. I know for a fact some of the HKS cranks come outta China, and have for quite a while. Just the tip of the iceberg really. A lot of high profile Aussie brands have stuff ex-China/Thailand as well, and they perform exceptionally. There is nothing wrong with stuff out of China from a lot of the manufacturers, this isn't 2006 - it's 2012 and times have changed and improved markedly

Some of my closest mates have come from SAU incidentally Perhaps "Dummies guide: How wield a ban stick on the unsuspecting"

Indeed, i was well into the SAU world by '03

Waiting for some legal shit to sort itself out (taking longer than it should), bit of a career change coming up!