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domino_z

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Everything posted by domino_z

  1. is it holding 17 psi right to redline though? or just peak 17psi? kymbo what was the cost for the catted downpipes? im assuming mercury are using aam's catted downpipes any vibrations at certain revs when cold, any droning coming up through the console inside the cabin etc? ive had mixed experiences with high flow cats on my cars, some have worked flawlessly, some havent ive ditched the cats + resonators for a straight through mid-pipe and not sure how much more i can push my luck without running into issues
  2. I didn't think the stock turbo actuators could hold 17psi? I'm looking at changing them out but if I don't have to it's one less thing to worry about
  3. the only difference bw aussie and US car forums is the much higher numbers their dyno's put out.......oh and the level of hate
  4. Re hks pumps I agree That Diy link is just to show what's involved in the install I personally would go dw injectors with dw pumps just to keep that consistency bw parts
  5. if anyone wants to see whats actually involved... Diy injectors http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/FuelInjectorsGTR.pdf Diy fuel pumps http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/HKSfuelPumps.pdf
  6. Great info, modd need to sticky this thread
  7. Gohan I google's the hoppers station and it's a 60km round trip Southland is definitely closer, about half the distance When you decide to fill with e85 can you just add it to your 98ron or do you need to drain the tank, do you then drive for a few kms before switching the map over. I know all about the execution but don't know how it's actually done in practice.
  8. you're right, I feel guilty now back on topic...
  9. Martin is there any gain to be had on 98Ron with larger injectors and pumps? What would that do to fuel consumption? Can you tune those with an e-tune using the cobb datalogging? Living and working in the cbd I'm averaging around 350km to a full tank
  10. You can have injectors and pumps landed for under 1500 Stereotypes and demographics need not apply
  11. How much of the existing fuel in the tank do you need to consume before switching over Does it matter there is still some 98 in the lines and tank when changing maps or do you need to run the tank completely dry I'm in Melbourne but I'm assuming there'd be a United here with e85? Is the dw injectors and dw pumps all that's needed?
  12. List of United stations currently stocking e85 http://www.unitedpetroleum.com.au/distributor-e85-locations.asp
  13. Hi guys So who here is now tuned for and running E85 Please post your feedback, both good and bad There is alot of stories floating around about long term effects on the car, the inconsistency with the quality of E85 etc And for those that are running it, what supporting mods do you have - which brand injectors, fuel pumps, who did the tune.... I may be double'ing up here, but figured this thread could serve as a running guide/feedback for E85
  14. awesome mate thanks for the tip and pics i dont do any track work so the double sided tape may suffice
  15. hahaha very true. When i was working as a fleet manager i thought i knew all the angles, leased a car, and while making those repayments the GFC hit and the value took a dive. My payout after 4 years of repayments ended up being pretty much what the car is worth. Hence my pov i agree horses for courses, and personal experiences shape how each individual treats a decision like this. The OP was looking for options, hence the suggestion to buy outright and avoid said hassles of loan app which as highlighted could put a serious damper on what should be a great new car experience, and that triggered the subsequent replies
  16. leasing only works imo if your assett is appreciating in value to cover (or at least break even) on the interest charged. Cars are toys, buy them outright. Save the interest repayments and jumping through loan application hurdles for property my $0.02
  17. and ill take that dash top piece then...
  18. you mean tyres? i have yokohama advan sport. Not sure the exact model number, but i believe Yokohama only offer one specific model in my 21" sizes re the LC debacle, what makes it confusing is all the US speak that their 2010 introduced LC2. Technically their 2010 is our (and the rest of the world's) 2009. Apparently they're already buying 2012 build cars
  19. i clear bra'd my skirts after repainting, but yep the GTR is prone to stone chips along the lower rear 1/4 panel in front of the rear wheel the problem is the oem tyres are far too sticky and pick up every bit of debris on the road, and then as soon as the front wheels come off centre it flicks stones all along the side panels, but you cant let that stop you going for a quick blast in the hills since changing tyres i havent yet got any stones kicking up along the lower panels, i cant even hear stones getting flicked up in the rear guards when we go on our local cruises, i just make sure i keep a fair distance from the car in front. And i havent got one single chip on my front since May '10
  20. must be the flouride in the water
  21. this should also shut up those interweb dweebs who were commenting on your feature page your mod list is nothing major LOL granted when you grow up being able to stage 3 tune your ps3 supra, yes handbrake version 1 may seem tame in comparison btw any noticeable wear on the oem tranny/subframe mounts after all those track events?
  22. im in Vic, we do have some great roads that aren't too far out of the cbd what ive always wanted to do is run the full length of the great alpine road - will require an overnighter along the way
  23. yep +1 on that E85 would love to do some back to back comparo's
  24. thought you can only use LC @ ~3200rpm with everything in R mode...... think i need to bed/scuff the new tyres in, it's a slow process when my work round trip is only 6km need a good country drive
  25. i cant LC off the line with my 21" Yoki Advans (255/35 and 295/30) as quick as with the oem runflats the lighter wheels + tyres and lack of grip gives me wheel spin right through first on most surfaces and from a comparison with an oem tyred car (with cobb tune), it's no quicker than a non-LC foot stomp launch - that split second of dead pedal is compensated by my wheel spin tbh after that comparo i dont feel the need to use LC anymore. But i do feel more confident that if i do have the urge at a traffic light gp, id rather spin all that energy away through the wheels than have it go through the diffs/box
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