Duncan

It's possible that the horn is working but it is so gay you can't hear it? Or maybe start with checking the horn fuse, it may well be after the relay in the wiring (they are on a skyline). Not that a fuse should blow, but it is a place to start. If not unbolt the horn, hold it on battery - and run a wire to battery + (if there is only 1 wire) or run both wires to you battery +/- to test it. With the washer pump...there is water, right? If so most likely all nozzles are blocked. Find the washer bottle where the pumps are, take the hose(s) off and quickly run the washers to see if water comes out, presumably it will because you can hear the motor running. If so put that hose back on and trace it to the bonnet nozzles, pull the hose of the back and repeat the test. If water comes out there as well pull the washer nozzles off the car and clean them out with a needle or similar

sorry I posted a pic not a link, specs here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-tank-vent-valves/atl-tank-vent-valve-8mm-push-on-vent-inline-50mbar-pressure-relief-5mbar-vacuum yep, it's always closed outwards unless the pressure is over 50mbar (about 1psi). Personally I think anyone rallying without a working anti rollover valve should consider Henri Toivonen and Sergio Cresto; you shouldn't always assume you can quickly exit a car that didn't land on it's wheels... I looked at a lot of the common/cheap anti roll over valves and was in no way convinced. For example they would really only seal if the car was exactly upsidedown.....

oh, RE and RE probably means "remove and replace" the CVs which is a reasonably large job so 3 hours is OK.

All of those symptoms can be caused by stuffed tension/castor rod bushes, and you said they are stuffed....

Sorry yes the plenum is bare other than the air temp sensor; although if you need particular bits I probably have them... Re the Ruzic Data logger. Basically Paul Ruzic (Mountainrunner on here) was (is?) a skyline owner and electrical engineer who built limited runs of a couple of excellent units. I'm selling the Engine Monitor and Data logger, they work together to monitor 23 channels of data, and bring them to your attention if there is an issue (eg low oil pressure, high oil or water temp etc etc). It comes with software to configure each of the inputs. When an alarm is triggered you can get warning light and/or buzzer, it also comes with a shift light and the EM has a configurable screen than can show 4 pages of 4 values. You (or an auto elec, or a good workshop) will need to wire in whichever data you want to log. I had oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, fuel pressure, revs, volts, speed, rpm, 4wd%, afms, air temp, injector%, timing, TPS, wide band 02, brake switch, engine check light. And GPS location and speed of course Available channels for the Engine monitor: Available channels for the Data Logger: The 2 units share data so all DL channels can trigger warnings, and all EM channels can be logged. It logs to a USB stick for easy changes and transfer to a PC There must be a few engine monitors out there because I got one from the second batch, not sure how many data loggers he made. Also his attessa controller (which I don't have) is excellent and links in too. When I decied to go e85 with flex fuel I went Haltech, as part of the change I went to their dash as well to keep the car simple.

Good question, I had it all wrong at first but should be fine now. Basically there are 4 exits from the tank 1. Filler neck. It's standard and still has the standard cap (which vents pressure in but not back out) 2. Loop back to the filler neck. I assume this is meant as a vent to allow filling without the pump clicking off so it is standard (it Ts back into the neck) 3 and 4 are small breathers that in the factory setup go through a couple of fittings (I assume roll over valve) and up to the charcoal cannister in the engine bay. These are now T'ed together and go into this valve which opens both ways, but only under pressure (thus allowing the tank to breathe out when it gets hot, and in as the fuel pump empties the tank) so it stays closed at other times and won't leak fumes unnecessarily It then breathes externally through a fitting which will be mounted at the rear bumper. Need a spot that won't get damaged but is clear of the bodywork

Close, but not touching. I hope. Will probably line the duct with heat shield once it's all back together but its too hard to be certain about space until the engine is back in with the full exhaust in the right place

No, I run the standard pedal box, booster, ABS. Targa regs do allow all that to be changed but prod cars don't. In any case I've never been convinced that ABS is a detriment for rally use. So it is just t-ed into the front brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the ABS. I didn't use the rear line because I assume there is some sort of proportioning valve somewhere in the rear circuit anyway

Look, new forum! No idea how to multiquote any more though....

Excellent topic for a Tech Day; well done to the execs for putting this together!

Oh BTW I'm sure Josh knows what he is talking about, and I'm sure their damping suits the spring rates; MCA have been getting good results. But there are more than one set of opinions out there, and good reasons for each side.... The Evo I ran at Bathurst had MCAs in them and it generally handled well, but it was surprisingly soft in the rear and rolled into oversteer in long corners. I don't know the spring rates but I guess they were much softer than usual for MCA....having said that the car with that setup is very quick at smaller tracks like Wakefield

I've been running with SydneyKid's revalved Bilstein (the non adjustable ones) for about 10 years now. Never been tempted to change them, the car handles beautifully....great traction and totally predictable

Just for reference, my full weight 32 GTR (race/rally) has 450 front and 350 rear springs, which is about 8F/6R. Those rates quoted by Josh are pretty extreme (15/11 for the same hankook tyre) and likely to impact traction over bumps. I'd suggest you pm SydneyKid (Gary) to discuss an alternative view.

well that sucks, good to see you still have the car.... You need to remove the internal door trim. There may be a DIY somewhere, but if not there are screws around the perimeter and one in the handle in the pull middle of the door. everywhere else are push in clips (pry carefully so as not to break them) and then pull upwards to pull it out of the window channel. Then move the plastic out of the way. The handle is held on by 2 nuts (10mm head) but you will also need to carefully unhook the push rods that link to central locking and between the lock and the barrel.

Walbro fuel pump gone. Now added, radiator cooling panel to suit W34 Stagea from the original Bass Junky group buy, $150 So the current list of for sale is: 6 Volk Racing Le37 in 18x9.5 +12 $2,500 Wideband 02 sensor controller $180 Battery Box $20 32 Heater core and box $80 JJR RB26 sump baffles $250 R34 GTT/C34 Stagea Series 2 Oxygen Sensor $90 Ruzic Datalogger and Engine Monitor II $500 RB26 Plenum $200 Stagea Cooling Panel $150

There's also been some mechanical assembly.... Fuel tank is back in with most of the breathers sorted. Just need to plum in the pressure valve and mount the vent fitting Subframe all assembled except brakes and shocks, ready to go back in I got Matt at Racebrakes to fit a fitting for a brake pressure sender for the Haltech. The Emo at Easter had one and it was super useful data Hit the engine bay with some satin spray can and added some c/f blanks to cover some old holes (no more wet feet for Kel....) Assembled rear subframe back in. Also mounted the fuel cooler with rivnuts and rubber isolators to prevent vibration

Right, so....been way too long since an actual GTR update, which is not fair because progress has been happening (although not quick). On the electrical side, I've finished stripping all the looms. Rear loom complete (in theory) including new main pump and lift pump feeds Front loom complete on the engine bay side, still some work required at the cabin end. Still a bit to do on the dash/main loom. Only 1 relay and a couple of fuses left under the bonnet as the smartwire will handle almost everything Also installed the button and wiring for the new kill switch in the driver's door Also got a new intercom to simplify everything, just needs power and earth and removes the old adapters. Also comes with bluetooth phone for calling in the service fairies. And finally, sorted LEDs for all lights (except headlights, where I still need to get the housings first)

In that case it may be a historical error, just clear it and see if it comes back....

I'm not familiar with the electric hicas, but my guess is the LH and RH solenoids are probably mounted on the steering rack. I take it you dont get any error lights staying on when you start the car? Is it possible someone has removed the dash warning light globe? Either way, have a look at the rear steering rack and make sure there are no unconnected plugs....maybe a previous owner has disconnected it

Sort of. The dash is just a standard bolt in dash with an LCD, you need to run power and earth, and it has a regular yellow video input. They were often used with an epson EJ1 computer which is a totally different thing, but if not you could run any video input to it.

Man those things are awesome, and hard to come by. Mine actually died about a year ago (LCD backlight failed) Someone grab this, it's as rare as a double headed unicorn!

Definitely yes on S1, and I assume the same on S2. Some brackets are involved but you could make them if not supplied with the lip

hopefully lol

they aren't 32, different front housing. I'd guess they are 34 because it came in 2 sizes (otherwise why mark them 0.64), but could also be 33.

oh, and dont drop the roll pins into the box....