Duncan

and it should release attessa fluid when you open the bleeder if the car is on or the bleeder bypass is connection is made at the diagnostic plug so you can bleed the system. It is in no way related to your gearbox

go grey...everything else ends up that way over time anyway....

I can't see the supplier being excited about confirming which part you need as any mistake would become their liability.... To get the exact part number send your VIN to someone with FAST and they can check specifically. There is a thread somewhere for FAST parts lookup or alternatively PM me your VIN and I can check.

I asked Robin Bailey from SCRAA that same question in 2011: Hi Duncan The eligibility of R33 and R34 for Sports Cars has been discussed several times in the past, and we cannot really see any reason why they cannot be recognised. We have had an R32 run with Sports Cars in Vic in the past 24 months “by invitation” as the entrant did not want to run in IPRA (3J) and Prod Sports in Vic were more than happy to have him run with us. The bottom line is that the R32 ran as a touring car in the Aust Touring Car Champs in the Group A era, and getting it recognised as a sports car will be problematic unless there is an international history of the car running as a Sports/GT. However, the R33 and especially R34 is a different kettle of fish. These cars never ran in Australia as touring cars, and I believe that they can be “measured” as sports cars (effectively a measurement from the rear bulkhead to the dash). The SCRAA is a voluntary group who assists CAMS with eligibility requests (a simple euphemism for getting the entrants to do the paperwork), so the process is 2-fold: 1. We need a recognition document to be created (the template is attached) 2. We need a submission from a knowledgeable person (such as yourself on a member of your club) to supply information about competition history of the vehicle – I know that the R34 ran in the Japanese Super-GT series for instance, running against turbo Supra’s etc … all of which helps to support the view that the car(s) warrant recognition as “sports cars”. Once this information is available, the submission is considered b SCRAA membership (and this may involve discussion with yourself – as the submitter for instance) and a recommendation for eligibility is made to CAMS for their sole consideration and agreement. The CAMS Australian Motor Race Commission is the body who makes the final decision. The SCRAA membership is made up of representatives from Prod Sports NSW, Prod Sports Qld, Prod Sports Vic, individual representatives from SA and WA, plus the 2 “Super Sports” clubs in NSW and QLD (these look after eligibility of the motor-bike engines sports cars like the Radical, ADR etc). The Prod Sports NSW rep is Brian Anderson and I will forward your details to him and ask that he make contact to assist in getting the required submission details created. I hope this helps. Regards

It is just the same. All you need is the front plate from your pull gearbox and make sure the new gearbox has holes to mount the slave cylinder both ways. Not sure why you'd want to keep a pull clutch though, they are a PITA to change and have less options available

stay away from the 888....they are not hit and miss, they just only work well on light cars. Buy these instead @250 each: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/235-45-17-2354517-94W-HANKOOK-VENTUS-TD-Z221-R-COMPOUND-SEMI-SLICK-TYRES-NEW-/281783694508?hash=item419b9df4ac. Just check first, it says the compound is soft which may be too soft for your use depending on temps and the length of stages.

They are likely to be unrelated problems, and neither would be unusual for a drift car

Lots of timing lights (generally the less expensive ones) read double the actual timing from the loop at the back, so if you are seeing 30o you can probably read that as 15o

Yeah that is sad news, by all accounts he was a good bloke as well as a very successful racer. And of course terribly unlucky to have that sort of accident.

And the only real trick is that the Attessa ECU is also the ABS ECU, so you won't have ABS until you turn off the ignition and back on again. For drag use that is fine, you can do it all quickly. But for things like drifting it's worth keeping in mind. No big fuse required, its no more than 10 or 15A

Sounds exactly like a boost leak to me, I would start with that, particularly If the smoke is black. And a big leak, so start with the intake and cooler piping

The 2nd import I bought I did a lot of that myself. While you won't need a agent to buy the car you will still need one for shipping as they deal with all the customs and quarantine. You could either use one of the usual agents on here like Iron Chef (who I'm sure could reduce their overall fee) or find a car shipping agent.

I haven't tried back to back, but almost no cars use a clutch booster.....Nissan over engineered a lot with the GTR which is great, but I think in this case it wasn't necessary

Congrats on taking out the state champs.....you are going to need a bigger pool room

good to see it has come up OK now. An ARDC practice day is not the place to go unless you've done a lot of track work, it will be full of experienced racers trying to get their cars sorted and not beginner friendly. You would be much better to go to one of John Boston's days at Wakefield, they get posted in NSW events. Or join SAU NSW and go to the track day at Eastern Creek, that will also be better then ARDC open practice/

generally about -100,000.

oh I should add, the most recent race magazine had a long interview with Fred Gibson and it mentioned something about the turbos there....pretty sure it related to modified thrust bearings which also means it would have been bush not ball bearing turbos. the magazine is a great read for anyone interested in the Gibson cars history

D51 is more than enough, I've been running one in my 3l stagea for years. don't forget these are reasonably low compression motors with good electronics so they start pretty easy. The only time I'd be a bit hesitant is if you have an aftermarket tune without good cold start.....even then you are a better to fix the cold start than get a bigger battery. Like Junkie said the problem you are most likely to have is with poor adaption of the wrong battery size to the factory loom. Its the sort of thing that is normally OK for a while then you start to get annoying drop outs or undercharging because of poor connections. BTW I think its D51R to get the terminals around the right way, double check before you order. The have models with terminals on either side, and also in either size

definitely 100% not -5s, they came along about 15 years later. there are guys on here who know what they ran for sure, but I'll bet the were big old modified bush bearing things in the original/factory housings. The R32 production Nismo and then N1 models had big bush bearing turbos and I'll bet that's what they started with. We have to run the original turbs for racing rules and they are nasty, old fashioned things. They spool as slow as a -5 but only give the power of a -7, about 250kw at 12psi BTW, I note the GCG website says "This Turbocharger is the turbocharger that was fitted on the Bathurst Nissan Skyline R32 GTR", and I still bet it's not true

I guess you are using this for drag racing use only, for circuit or rally use there are a range of electronic controllers that give excellent results. For drag use I've either seen custom system like you are looking at, OR, HKS used to make a controller for drag racing that provided a fixed split. There is nothing wrong with the mechanical system for drag use, you just want it to operate at a different time....so the right computer is all you need

Hi mate, firstly please be aware I'm just looking this up, they are not part numbers I can personally confirm as correct. 31536-05U00 is the driven plate and 31532-05U00 is the clutch plate They are section 333 in FAST Any Nissan deal can order based on those part numbers (although they may choose not to). Websites like amayama.com will also deliver based on those genuine numbers

great post, this quote from the article was spot on... We buy chemicals and sprays at a local parts house and think to ourselves how can this be so bad health wise if we use it, I am buying it over the counter?

I just wanted to clarify, there is no issue with running the pump at full voltage at all times, it certainly won't cause it to run rich or anything like that (the fuel pressure regulator manages pressure, the pump has no impact unless it can't provide full pressure to the FPR - in which case your engine will almost certainly go bang). I guess they run at lower voltage stock to keep the fuel cool by not pushing it through the system unnecessarily. It returns to full voltage once you leave idle anyway. One thing to watch, the ECU uses the negative side to stop the pump running when the engine isn't (after priming) so you do still need the negative from the ECU. If you directly earth the pump you will lose that important safety feature.

I feel dirty approving this as a motorsport build, but hey it seems to have a cage

nasty. where is the love these days. you've both changed