Duncan

In

Interesting idea. I'd want to know how well paint can paint lasts with the heat/cold/twisting a tyre has?

Good post Richard, good to hear someone has actually got an outcome. How long did it take and how much did it cost that you did not get back?

There is a switch on the console that locks the 4wd on which can feel exactly like that at low speed, when it is turned on there is also a light on the dash. Power steering fluid is a possible problem because very low fluid would cause additional load. It should definately be topped up. Stay on the lookout for a leak though, powersteering fluid should never disappear.

Excellent service and outcome....what was the name of the shop?

zookeeper? beekeeper? on the bright side, if you can't return the CAS, there is always ebay

OK, that was hard. but it seems I can now share it. 9 If you want a copy pm me your email address.

good to hear you are ready to run.....and those cars are damn cheap considering that is ready to race

I can't confirm tyres affecting the steering wheel position (doesn't make sense to me), but I have certainly had old tyres/ out of round which made the car pull to one side even though the alignment was perfect

so....I actually have one of these, and I need to remove it (because I converted from standard intake to a pod). I'd be happy to pass it on if someone wants something to copy from

nothing will ever be more memorable than the twin turbo landcruiser...back when superlap was keeping it real

good outcome

Interestingly....same question, but nearer sydney inner west.

Hi mate, firstly, welcome A leak from the attessa line is very common, looks like you've got one. FIrstly, you will need some auto trans fluid to refill the resoviour once you are done. And a small spanner 10mm I think and some clear tubing will help you bleed it. Leave the cap on the resoviour in the boot (minimises the fluid you will loose). Put the car up solidly on stands. Oil tray down and rags at the ready. Take a spanner (preferably flare nut) to that attessa line. Either 17 or 19mm, can't remember. Undo it carefully (you really don't want to strip that nut) and pull it off. Pour fluid everywhere except the oil tray. Give the thread on the fitting a quick clean, and make sure the flare fitting is smooth without gouges or bends. Also do the best clean you can on the gearbox/xfer case end. A tiny bit of grease on the thread, and put the fitting back on nice and smooth. Pull it down reasonably tight but nothing silly. Clean all the bloody mess down with degreaser. Cap off the resoviour in the boot, refill it to max. Make sure the car is out of gear and start it up. Open the bleed nipple at the rear of the transfer case until the fluid flows smoothly without bubbles. If you are unlucky it won't come through, if so there is another breather in the attessa line in a really nasty spot above the driveshafts somewhere. Once it is bled properly, turn the car off, take it off stands, refil the resoviour if necessary, and resume hooning.

my 8/97 had the black plastic CAS....so now we know the month they changed over It was actually converted to the earlier style metal CAS when I put some 33 gtst cams in, the only change was swapping a wire in the plug

good searching yes it will fit directly. you also need to use the 32's washer that holds the sender in place, or make something, but that is no biggie.

I hope it is....all 32, 33 and 34 chassis have coilover suspension.

well, unless I misunderstand autocross is a bit quicker and more open than our motorkhanas, so it won't be so bad. They are a little large and heavy for local khanas, but still great fun In the end, you'd still get eaten by an evo or some sort of mini special

ahh it's been a while....lots of long lost names in this thread. interesting that time attack had a spot on the pyramid 8 years ago

interesting how consistently the weight of the tyre/wheel goes up, I'm sure that's the issue with the big wheels

don't bother mate, they are a pretty rigid car. Unless you are racing of course when you need a cage anyway

welcome back Andrew....bad attitude though. Drop that other things come first crap and prioritise the important things in life!

I was missing an important word...."gauge" They are cheap and easy to install and will confirm if you have the base pressure you need to start the car

And, leave the ABS computer in as it runs all the sensors for the attessa. I'm sure that can also be rewired but that is getting a little trickier

Brad's way sounds like the easy way to get to the root of the issue. but if you want to troubleshoot first you need to work out: Does the pump have power and earth when it is not running (probably not, but if it does the pump is the issue). One side of the pump is relay switched. Does the other side have constant power or earth (earth I think but I can't check right now) On the relay side- does it have constant input (earth or 12v, probably 12v)? Does one side of the relay input have constant 12v (or earth)? Is it the other side that is loosing it's earth (or power)? If they are OK it is a faulty relay. If the signal is faulty check for the same condition at the PFC output, that will rule out a wiring issue. If the PFC signal is not there....is it meant to be? the fuel pump should turn off after 3-5 seconds of priming with the key on (makes troubleshooting hard, especially with 1 person!). If it is missing can you swap to another PFC or a standard computer to see if it gives fuel pressure. BTW, a mechanical fuel t'ed into the fuel feed line is really cheap (under $20) and makes troubleshooting starting isssues so much easier. Electric in cabin gauge is an ever better idea but costs about 10x