Duncan

lol yeah that wouldn't work so well...shouldn't drunk type in brake threads!

OP said the brakes were smoking. fluid fade can never do that. It is either: * not bedded in properly, or oil or something on the discs or pads. To fix, remove and clean with brake fluid * pads/discs were overheated. get better ones. I think it was identified above that the pads are at the crappy end of the mu range?

well that's good news, but still not safe. that is the pin that holds the spring that holds the brake pads in place. They should have had an R pin or split pin to stop them slipping out. To fix that, you need 4 small split pins. Jack the car up, take the wheels off and you will see at the other end of those pins they have a hole drilled through them. You can put the split pins through the hole in the back (bend back at least 1 leg when you have) and it will be fine. Or, ring the shop and tell them to come and fix it. They probably have the original R pins sitting on their floor somewhere

first, your qualified tradesman has made a major, dangerous f**kup. You should call them and abuse them tomorrow. It is easy enough to bolt the calipers back up properly, you just need the right size spanner or socket (preferably on a 1/2" drive). Don't drive the car until it is fixed, you are likely to lose your brakes entirely. On second reading, I am not sure you mean the caliper mounting bolt - can you post a pic?

I've never used the race pads, but the "sports" one have been fine for daily use, for rally use, and for track use.

Yep I'm sure these sit in a mm or 2 slimmer than 32 gtr/33gtst brakes. I changed from 32 gtr to d2 and was able to ditch my spacers (was still damn close, but more space). Anf, pm sent. I'm surprised more people aren't jumping at this. These brakes have been extensively proven by myself and others over the years. I ran mine at Targa Tas and for a season's racing, and I know the Just Jap and Donut King 32s have been running them at rallies for years too. And I've been using these on my rb30 stagea, and I had them on my 350z as well.

Good work getting this together Ash, they are excellent brakes and this is a great price. I have bought 3 sets over the years for different cars including racing with them at Targa Tas, they are great for the money They actually need less clearance to wheel spokes than 33gtst/32 gtr calipers, they are a little narrower. They are a larger diameter disc of course

boosters are for pussies....just go without it

but to save this going further off topic....check out here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/350342-skyline-heated-front-screens-r32-at-this-stage/page__st__80__p__5934593__hl__windscreen__fromsearch__1#entry5934593

dell did!

don't worry about the heater, ditch it. Dell sells electrically heated windscreens which are a good thing

unless you were one of the lotto winners last night....just run the factory dash pad (light, and free), or no dash at all, with or without a custom ally gauge and switch mount

agreed, unfortunately it is almost certainly a blocked oil gallery. There are pressed in plugs at the end of each gallery that you can pull out to clean (then tap and put a grub screw in. Those galleries are tiny and easily blocked

yeah sorry I can't remeber an exact price but it was very reasonable...and better than the damn boot slamming every time I closed it under $100 from memory, so brand new ones for the bonnet are about half the price. I am pretty sure the boot ones don't interchange with anything else, they are very specific to their mounting in the boot. Also, Nissan no longer have stock of them so regassing is the only option

I think I did post up somewhere, but I also recently put maxima struts in mine...working well. the rear is not so easy, I had to get my old ones regassed

about f**king time....you finally have some class

OK, significant backlog cleared, let me know if some have been missed. Also, the best way to chase up an unapproved thread is to contact the section moderators first: N1GTR, Col-GTSX. Or another way is the "report this post" link which also goes to the section moderators....best way to spread the workload across the volunteer mods

hmm that's nasty. hope everyone was OK

off topic removed. keep it on topic or take it back to the wasteland

I am extremely surprised that anyone decided to join after Nissan (and before seeing how they went) - Erebus/AMG are very brave, and good luck to them. Can't beleive I have to cheer for Rick Kelly next year.....that is really going to hurt I am very over v8 supercars and haven't really watched it for the last few years; there are only a couple of car/driver combos who have a chance at most rounds. And they are spending almost as much on cars as the Superlap guys Would be great to see some variety, and an effort to breakdown the knuckle-dragging holden v ford marketing

now that is a big job.....muuuch more detail needed maybe a whole thread I have a w2a intercooler in a race car I never got around to finishing....

Great post Dave

hmmm I did say for street use, right? for me the only tyres worth using on a track a proper semi slicks. everything else is just frustrating when you try and get the most out of the car. even the semi-semi slicks like 595RSR or KU36 really don't cut it on the track

not sure what you are hearing, or from whom sydking....but I run the 595SS on my stagea and they are an excellent daily tyre. yes they are not a semi slick (like re55s) or even a semi semi slick like (595RS or KU36), but they are a very good price/performance compromise for daily use. plenty of NSW club members are running the 595SS due to the very good prices through the club, I don't know anyone who thinks they are not good

I picked up their smaller freestanding one...still looks big enough for the majority of car parts, anything larger like wheels or heads etc can be done by a specialist. http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S289 The challenge with big blasting cabinets is that you need a hge/expensive compressor to supply enough air