Duncan

which problem, the bolt size issue? if so, yes, the 32 gtr and 33 gtst are very similar and interchangeable. whether you think it's a problem is up to you I don't

no dogbones/caliper adapters, or new brake lines required. there is a difference in the bolts for the calipers (the hub is 1 size larger than the brakes). Some people are concerned or make a spacer to sort that, I didn't and had no issues I ran 32 gtr (same as 33 gtst) on the front of mine that way for years. cheap and easy upgrade

great to hear you found it in time, and good advice

it's definately staG-ea in japan...but we don't call them neee-san either. I've always called them stage-a

Maybe he is out on the boat this morning?

since nissan would have supported that piece, I'll bet it was one of the prototypes, might even have become one of the toruing cars later when they built more chassis, or maybe it became the pace car/falken car.

should be fine, I run 32gtr front and rear on mine....damn cheap and convenient upgrade

I run 18x9 GTR wheels with 235/35/18 tyres and they lightly rub the inner guard liner at full lock. Not enough to worry about though

absolutely no issues, people mix brands/compounds all the time, this is just a more extreme example. obviously it will impact the balance of the car, but like you said soft front and medium rear is the way to go.

I reckon reviving an old thread is a billion times better than asking a question without researching an existing answer first You do have to be a little careful, in particular don't drop the car too far of course. If you are worried about dents on the door you should put a rag or similar on top of the chassis stand....but in the end the hinge bends before the door will

face what now?

you guys are lucky...pretty much every trailer I've ever hired has been a deathtrap. towing a car is about the most dangerous thing you can do on the roads, and rental trailers just don't get maintained properly. bad wheel alignment (swaying), brakes not working, no lights, bad tie down points etc etc. Ask frozenwaffles what can happen If you do have to use one, look for one which is obviously new, and keep the speed down (ie stay off the highways)

you need to look at that link again, it applies to re-registering a previously registered vehicle which was written off " Vehicles authorised for repair under the written-off vehicle reforms New laws regarding the management of written-off vehicles applying to ALL NSW light vehicles up to 15 years old were introduced on 31 January 2011. A light vehicle is a registrable vehicle that is 4.5 tonnes or less gross vehicle mass (GVM). Light vehicles include cars, trailers, caravans and motorbikes. The registered vehicle operator (or owner if it's not registered) can apply to Roads and Maritime Services for an 'Authorisation to Repair a written-off vehicle' if the vehicle is: in an exempt vehicle category and is able to be repaired to legislated vehicle safety standards. Exempt vehicle categories include: Hail damaged Inherited Applicant was the registered operator for more than 28 days before damage occurred. A person who will only use the vehicle for designated motorsport activities may also apply for an exemption." As far as I am aware, there is no rego available in NSW for rally cars. I beleive the only option is to apply for an Unregistered Vehicle Permit (UVP) every time you want to drive

yes an admin would have to do it, you can't change topics or posts except shortly after when you post them. go into the thread and choose the "report" link, include details and the section mod will look after it.

this is almost certainly the reason. the fluid won't affect what torque the systems wants to send forward (although it could affect what does actually happen), so it won't change the gauge reading. I have never used the nissan fluid in any road gtr or stagea I've had, or in the race car. I use generic ATF in the road cars and castrol transmax z in the race car and have had no issues

dammit, that's is what's wrong with the internet these days. why can't all thread starters post a problem, find the solution and post it up too. instead it's all, blah blah, help me, blah blah that's how it used to be when I was young, and the internet was an untamed frontier

you've got me there, no way for water to get over the transmission tunnel. maybe there are 2 drains, one on either side. mine always leaks passenger side. also ac drain is on the passenger side. heater core is above the trans tunnel so it could leak either side, but coolant is a very specific colour and smell, you wouldn't confuse it for water (unless you are running water in the radiator of course)

yeah exactly, the front sunroof drain is a plastic pipe down the a pillar to the front wheel well somewhere, the rear drain down the C pillar to the rear wheel well. mine leaks from the front sunroof drain into the passenger footwell, with all that lovely sound deadening it can stay damp for ages unless you dry it out. but since I've never worked out where mine is blocked, I just don't park it nose downwards when it rains

if you have a sunroof, blocked drain is the most likely reason....I've had this problem for years and haven't got around to fixing it.

good news, the navara from the same period has pretty much the same box, and an electronic speedo sendor. Also, as with Dan I am 99% sure most of the 32-33-34 (except 34 GTR) senders are interchangeable. I have a navara electric sender in my stagea which has a 32 gtr box, and a 32 mechanical sender in my 32 gtr which has a 33 series 3 box

can I bring a couple of blocks for you to demonstrate on? I'd be there for sure, I reckon tech nights are a great club event, and good for the hosting business too

I reckon the question should be the other way around....what can members do for their club? I've been a member for 10 years and on the committee for 8 of them and I can guarantee every suggestion above has been tried multiple times. What we don't have here is people who turn posts into presence at events. A smaller, more committed community would be more effective rather than 20 people working their arses off organsiing an event, only to have 20 people turn up. The one thing I can say for sure is a winner is the cruises. They are always huge, and reasonably easy to organise

just be a bit careful bringing over a bare block from here....there were 000s sold but they tend to be in bad condition by now.....plenty of people have checked more than 1 block before finding one that looks OK. I'd be buying from RIPS for the certainty

3 pieces to worry about there...inner tie rod end (where there is a big nylon bush that wears), outer tie rod end (cast and lasts pretty well) and the ball joint in the hub (a bastard to remove, and hard or impossible to find aftermarket

While I've never been impressed with the wet performance of falken's cheapies....i'd be getting your wheel alignment checked if I were you. no car should ever feel like you are ice skating, no matter how cheap the tyres. also double check for major wear on the inside of the rears, it can be hard to notice