Duncan

Paul (mountainrunner on the forum) makes exactly this for a good price, Engine Monitor II Has a series of digital and analogue inputs, and outputs are lights and buzzer. You set the warning point for each input. Also has a shift light as a bonus. Really good system, and about 1/4 the cost of an ecu with dash.

not suicide, but not necessary in my opinion either. healthy gearboxes/diffs/xfer cases really aren't that fussy about fluids, especially in day to day use (obviously race use where it gets very hot is a totally different story) If you have noise it is either the component is not right, or you have very high standards (which may be the case )

sorry I don't get the problem....please send me details and I'll sort it

ahh one problem leads to another....spacer + guard rolling then?

oh those are good. I'm pretty certain some of them have actually come from my two.

damn straight..see my member title <----------------

Hi mate, a much easier answer would be adding a 5mm slip on spacer, unless your wheel nuts will be too short. I've taken 2mm off a caliper before for a similar problem and got away with it, but 3-4 would be really pushing your luck unless someone has done it before....afterall do you have a spare if you stuff this one? BTW....good luck!

Damn good swimmers, those dolphins

fine (and very common) for a street car, not fine for a race car

over here? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/13-wanted-to-buy/

Hey Brendan, good to hear you are alive...probably not too many people left around from the olden times.

good man...I'm off to buy tools.

nope Chris, they don't stock power bar any more, checked a couple of months back. Wouldn't mind getting hold of one if someone knows where to find them Zeb, they look good, I saw something similar from snapon. The socket can be turned by a ratchet spanner (or socket, or ratchet) which gives you lots of options for clearance in tight spaces

lol. how many cars are you driving this year Boz?

Can't for the life of me remember which colour the box was, but it had a few wires going in (more than I expected) and covered all the beeping functions including reverse which I was trying to kill. It also seemed to control the remote start for my car. there may be a few different boxes depending on series and options

did it actually pop out, or you are just not happy with the fit? mine have been fine. for rears - Nissan (even jp) have nil stock, and I am not aware if another car's that fits, I had my originals re-gassed

don't buy any car with the check engine light on. spark plugs or not, the dealer should fix it first....

Hi mate, I am reasonably sure that the front and rear p/n are different (different size where they press into the hub) - did you get the right end? the front match something local and are readily available, the rears seem to be skyline and a bit trickier to find (but nissan have them in stock)

go for a new rim for sure mate, those rims are cheap to replace, and were made cheap in the first place.

It is likely the timer is controlled by a box not just a relay....

yep that would be her. In a sensible piece of timing she has quit and taken a job with the Broadband network, starting monday

looks like not many. I was expecting the whole world.

yeah probably kel there at that time, the cube is a little mangled at the front because someone backed into it while parked, and "forgot" to leaev their details. And unlike FnF parts are not overnight from Japan

Umm the downside is that if you don't win, you are responsible for their costs and legal fees. On the upside if you do win, they pay yours. Or 60%, I'm not sure what the exact rules are. I am 12 months into a Fair Trading / CTTT dispute with my house builder and am $25k down in expert and legal fees so far. $400+GST/hr adds up reasonably quickly. When we win we stand to get 60% of that back. As far as the actual process, there are one or more prelimianry hearings, each a few months apart, where you and the workshop state their case. Then a hearing to make a decision at the end of that. The decision is made on hard evidence like paperwork or expert reports (eg from an engineer). Verbal claims or input are not really given any weight. pm sent re my experience with a workshop and CTTT

sorry I wasn't very clear - the warning light is either handbrake on or low brake fluid, and low brake fluid only happens from a leak or sometimes pads worn. If you have plenty of fluid in the master cylinder, it must be the handbrake switch not releasing properly.