Duncan

Hey Andrew, it doesn't chirp second, I put good tyres on it It does happily spin all four in the wet at full throttle though. Lucky I am a sensible mature gentleman in a station wagon. Bob, you are dead right. Conservative is exactly the point of this car and setup, in fact the tuner sounded disappointed that the turbo would not take any more boost. We ran it as high as 24psi (about 280kw) but it just started to ping on repeated runs, suggesting the turbo had probably got past it's efficiency. There's no doubt it is a 350+ setup with a bigger turbo and maybe bigger injectors You should be happy with that curve, and I'm surprised it is still making power all the way up with the crappy stagea head - or have you got something different cams wise? And it's great to see you hitting the track in it too, it must be classic watching the stagea go past everyone else. Alex, sorry, no print out with air/fuel, it was a pretty steady 12:1

yep rb30/25....blue and black lines are the same setup except turbo red was the standard, auto rb25

interesting. it feels like the power comes on very early, so I overlaid my last dyno run (china turbo, same boost, same peak power) in blue, and the car when it ws stock in red. 2 points worth noting: At the same boost, and the same sized turbo, the ball bearing one makes 80% more power at 3500rpm. The new setup makes more power at 3000rpm than the standard one made at peak power

I finally gave in an put a garret water cooled, ball bearing highflow into the china housings after 4 of the china ones died over a couple of years. It seems to come on boost at about the same revs, but it has less lag (ie time between mashing throttle and full boost arriving) The guys at Unigroup did a tune for me today, here are the results: 19psi was the max the turbo was happy with, no doubt with a bigger turbo it could make more power....but that is hardly the point is it.

See you there Ryan. Adam, if you want a passenger seat, I will be heading through Ryde about 4ish.

you need tips from James/Sirlordvanderwhatever One common approached I've noticed is to add a stay from the front edge of the splitter up to the reo - this creates the triangle that you need for strength at the front.

1. Buy stagea 2. load with tyres 3.??? 4. Profit BTW....Dave said box. Over and over again. See y'all there. I'll have some tools there, and there are a few things in the club trailer too.

sprung....I hope I was being good. were you in the stag or undercover?

I lol'ed

That's the sprit pm sent

that is a C34 under that, isn;t it?

the simple answer is they increase the preload by adding more or thicker clutch plates, similar to the preload mods on a mechanical diff. I'm sure there is much more science to it in getting it right, in fact the first rebuild i had done was a disaster and left me with a broken xfer case chain (if you've seen it, you'll understand just how big a f**k up that must have been) and a rwd GTR to do Targa Tasmania in.

good thread...keep posting updates

For sale: Terraphone Rally Intercom. Very popular, entry level intercom. I ran this in the rally car for a couple of years until I moved to something more expensive with noise cancelling. The only issue with this was a little background noise which is common in the cheap intercoms, but it is perfectly usable. Includes: Intercom, CB speaker and Mic connections, 1x helmet headset. Also includes custom Raceworx ™ rollcage mounting kit (piece of bar on top to clamp to rollcage) You will need to buy a second helmet mic/speaker kit, only 1 is included. Retail: ~$200 Price: $50 pickup in Sydney, post at buyer’s expense

I've confirmed the offset on these today, it is 17x8 +30, same as the 32 gtr vspec wheels. they would be a good fit for any skyline/stagea/silvia etc.

fark...hope he is able to up and around again soon. nasty.

got the stag back with the new turbo on it today...response is good

Auto Meter 5744-M Phantom Full Sweep Electric Pyrometer Gauge details here: http://www.autometer...search&gid=3300 Included: Gauge, thermocouple and wiring. All in working order. They retail for about $250 new. Price $100 pickup in Sydney, or post at buyer’s cost

out of interest, how much power do you think is being fed to the wheels under braking? That "review" was anything but credible, but hey, there is nothing like a famous developer's name and some internet hype to get some viral marketing, right? A transfer case rebuild will cost $1-2k depending on how bad the existing case is, plus remove and replace and fluids. Yes it can make an excellent different, particulary if the old one is in poor shape. It however also offers no adjustability like the controllers do. I think a controller for a couple of hundred bucks is the way to go for most street users, unless you have too much money to spend. Once you talk about maximum performance for track etc it is a different story - I would (and did) do both a rebuild and a controller. You can get controllers on ebay from $90 so it is a cheap bet: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GTR-Torque-Split-Controller-TSC-GTS4-GTS-4-RB26-Stagea-/110896719839?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d1f5a7df

lol wrecker motors don't blow up, you know that Pete.....they just leak a little.

Good call pete, Marulan is a good place for a dirt cheap track day.

In

no problems, $50 with a free WB02 controller to be honest this is cheap to just stop it gathering dust. *edit* just saw why, the splitters retail for $99,999.99! http://wbo2.com/hw/splitter.htm

I spotted Craig. Long before he spotted me

actually, I always take flags seriously. If I see them through the red mist. BTW did you notice he almost caught that....rear grip came back just in time to spear him directly into the car.