Duncan

on the bright side, there are FA Dot 5 fluids to accidentally buy

+1 Dot6 would have made much more sense....but that's not what happened. BTW Dot 5.1 is not always better than Dot 4 - some fluids are only Dot4 but have 600o+ boiling points

always run a motor in reasonably hard (ie about 50-70% load with little or no boost), up to about 70% of max revs. And never let the motor idle or run at the same revs for a long time. The days of doing 5000klm on 10% throttle are long gone. Tolerances on a modern motor are much tighter and more accurate, and everything is over very quick. Personally I: 1. Unplug the CAS, and crank on the starter until there is some oil pressure 2. Run the motor at idle until the thermostat opens. Check there are no water leaks. About 5 min. 3. Drive it to a dyno and run it in for 100klm, or do 200ish klm on the road. Run it at medium load with no boost, regularly varying revs. 4. Drop the oil and change the filter, this removes 90% of anything you missed in the cleaning. 5. Run another 1000-4000klm on mineral oil depending on if it's a race or street motor (change the race motor to synthetic earlier). 6. Compression test. Be happy about the results. Enjoy

yes, 20w50 mineral is exactly what I use

BTW just to clarify legality - all skyline xenons (to 34 at least, maybe 35 and 36 as well) are removed at compliance as they do not meet ADRs. If you have a skyline with them, they were refitted after compliance (or never removed )

What temp does your thermostat open? The skyline ones are high 70s (79?), so 84 would be a perfectly normal running temp. Remember, the motor needs to be warm as per nissan's design to work efficiently (particularly fuel) I wouldn't worry about the temps until they head past 100 under heavy use.

The sportscar rental guys on victoria rd have an r35 gtr, but not sure if they have a 370. Would be a fun machine to get around in.

No! Yes! Perfectly normal behaviour, not just in skylines but in pretty much every car. Generally the 2 lights (low and high) are not designed to work together.

excellent answer

is it a 34 gtt? Looks like some sort of boost controller to me. Is the boost the same as it was before the line broke? What mods does that engine bay have?

But does it pull soccer mums? In my experience 350z only attracts blokes

almight johnstons is absolutely classic. best thing out of NZ since bro town.

there is a trick, the 34 uses a pull clutch, you need to unclip the fork. There is an R pin you have to remove and then the fork will slide off. and don't forget you will have to put that bloddy pin back in on re-assembly

Well, I reckon do a dyno run with and without the alternator on the fan belt (remember to still run the water pump of course) and see what the maximum difference is. I'm all for improvements but I suspect this is too marginal to chase. One other item worth mentioning - I run an underdriven fan and alternator pulley which is another way of reducing the drag. I did it for increased cooling but it should mean less drag from the alternator as it turns 30% less

Not possible unfortunately....the drag is caused by the power required to turn the alternator, and the alternator would be turned no matter whether it was on or off. A/C (or my March's supercharger) have an electric clutch that disengages the pulley from the compressor which reduces the drag to almost nothing when turned off, big difference. you can of course run without an alternator if the car can run on battery power and be recharged in the pits

oh that sucks....someone who owned your car in the past didn't give a shit about it you definately want the same tyres on either side of the same axle....it might be expensive but I also always replace mine in pairs. The car must be consistent between left and right grip.

OK makes sense....just wanted to make sure you were aware it's only a cosmetic choice, not a performance one Put the best tyres you can afford under it and enjoy, the right tyres really transform a car

seriously...unlesss you are feeling very committed....give it to a workshop. Changing bushes is one of those jobs that sucks without the right tools (not just the right press, but the right size drifts, airtools to get the arms off etc etc)

I overheat mine PS fluid all the time on the track, even though I run a PS cooler. Just refill and head back out

Wow, that many responses eh? I am not surprised, a lot of people think they are racing for sheep stations and that they can't share the information they paid good (or bad) money for. Having said that....I don't know mine Maybe Brad would be kind enough to look under my car and read the rates off the springs in a couple of spare minutes

Why do you want to stretch the tyre? Fitting a tyre that is narrower than the tyre manufacturer supports would not be legal and will have worse performance than a proper fit? Or is this just about the ful sik look and handling doesn't matter?

fixored.

was there ever a good answer for this? FWIW, the standard 32 gtr senders are not linear from full to empty, so be careful guessing based on that! I would take the 5l and measure, repeat option.

Very common for race cars to lift the inside wheel in some or all corners, it comes down to how hard your springs and sway bars are. The common, internet friendly and totally wrong approach to track suspension is to put hard shocks, springs and sway bars on for track use. In the real world, you run the softest springs you can while keeping all 4 wheels on the ground for maximum traction (there is a lot to that too, keep in mind the inside rear wheel will never have much grip as there is little weight on it). Soft springs keep the wheels on the track over bumps/ripple strips/small cars thereby maintaining traction. Add sway bars of the correct stiffness to adjust the understeer at either front or rear to your taste. BTW a stiff chasis makes a huge difference to whether a wheel will lift or not. It is very easy to lift a corner once a proper roll cage is installed. Throw all of these comments out the window if the left rear shock is siezed lol. drop by your local pedders and hand over $14 of your hard earned to get the shocks checked.

I tow a fair bit with my stagea and other than terrible fuel economy it is excellent. All I had to change to make it tow well was: Much harder and higher rear shocks Big brakes Big wheels to clear the big brakes Rb30 with 25 head High mount turbo Front mount intercooler and forward facing plenum PowerFC GTR injector conversion 2t tow bar from Max in canberra (mine fit the chassis but required heaps of work trimming the dayz kit) Also did a manual conversion but I don't think that helped it's towing ability, it is a bit of a pain to pull away from standing starts. So....for irregular towing I would say go for it....but for regular towing of big loads a lot of work and money is required to work well. Having said all that, I am very happy with how the car ended up. It is a daily car with occasional (1-2/month) towing of large loads (up to 2.5 tonnes) over long distances. When towing it is dead steady, brakes are great and plenty of power whenever it is needed. The only issue is the fuel economy is terrible when towing.