Duncan

there is a trick, the 34 uses a pull clutch, you need to unclip the fork. There is an R pin you have to remove and then the fork will slide off. and don't forget you will have to put that bloddy pin back in on re-assembly

Well, I reckon do a dyno run with and without the alternator on the fan belt (remember to still run the water pump of course) and see what the maximum difference is. I'm all for improvements but I suspect this is too marginal to chase. One other item worth mentioning - I run an underdriven fan and alternator pulley which is another way of reducing the drag. I did it for increased cooling but it should mean less drag from the alternator as it turns 30% less

Not possible unfortunately....the drag is caused by the power required to turn the alternator, and the alternator would be turned no matter whether it was on or off. A/C (or my March's supercharger) have an electric clutch that disengages the pulley from the compressor which reduces the drag to almost nothing when turned off, big difference. you can of course run without an alternator if the car can run on battery power and be recharged in the pits

oh that sucks....someone who owned your car in the past didn't give a shit about it you definately want the same tyres on either side of the same axle....it might be expensive but I also always replace mine in pairs. The car must be consistent between left and right grip.

OK makes sense....just wanted to make sure you were aware it's only a cosmetic choice, not a performance one Put the best tyres you can afford under it and enjoy, the right tyres really transform a car

seriously...unlesss you are feeling very committed....give it to a workshop. Changing bushes is one of those jobs that sucks without the right tools (not just the right press, but the right size drifts, airtools to get the arms off etc etc)

I overheat mine PS fluid all the time on the track, even though I run a PS cooler. Just refill and head back out

Wow, that many responses eh? I am not surprised, a lot of people think they are racing for sheep stations and that they can't share the information they paid good (or bad) money for. Having said that....I don't know mine Maybe Brad would be kind enough to look under my car and read the rates off the springs in a couple of spare minutes

Why do you want to stretch the tyre? Fitting a tyre that is narrower than the tyre manufacturer supports would not be legal and will have worse performance than a proper fit? Or is this just about the ful sik look and handling doesn't matter?

fixored.

was there ever a good answer for this? FWIW, the standard 32 gtr senders are not linear from full to empty, so be careful guessing based on that! I would take the 5l and measure, repeat option.

Very common for race cars to lift the inside wheel in some or all corners, it comes down to how hard your springs and sway bars are. The common, internet friendly and totally wrong approach to track suspension is to put hard shocks, springs and sway bars on for track use. In the real world, you run the softest springs you can while keeping all 4 wheels on the ground for maximum traction (there is a lot to that too, keep in mind the inside rear wheel will never have much grip as there is little weight on it). Soft springs keep the wheels on the track over bumps/ripple strips/small cars thereby maintaining traction. Add sway bars of the correct stiffness to adjust the understeer at either front or rear to your taste. BTW a stiff chasis makes a huge difference to whether a wheel will lift or not. It is very easy to lift a corner once a proper roll cage is installed. Throw all of these comments out the window if the left rear shock is siezed lol. drop by your local pedders and hand over $14 of your hard earned to get the shocks checked.

I tow a fair bit with my stagea and other than terrible fuel economy it is excellent. All I had to change to make it tow well was: Much harder and higher rear shocks Big brakes Big wheels to clear the big brakes Rb30 with 25 head High mount turbo Front mount intercooler and forward facing plenum PowerFC GTR injector conversion 2t tow bar from Max in canberra (mine fit the chassis but required heaps of work trimming the dayz kit) Also did a manual conversion but I don't think that helped it's towing ability, it is a bit of a pain to pull away from standing starts. So....for irregular towing I would say go for it....but for regular towing of big loads a lot of work and money is required to work well. Having said all that, I am very happy with how the car ended up. It is a daily car with occasional (1-2/month) towing of large loads (up to 2.5 tonnes) over long distances. When towing it is dead steady, brakes are great and plenty of power whenever it is needed. The only issue is the fuel economy is terrible when towing.

To get back to the original question - generally a car is log booked with CAMS/AASA/Irace mainly because those organisations require it to enter many events. Pretty much any event will require a log book if your car is not registered; the more serious events will require a log book whether it is registered or not. For a CAMS logbook you really only have to comply with schedule A, B and J. You will also need to chose a category for the log book, as per the discussion above, my experience is they don't really check eligibility at this check (or at most events either, but don't get me started on that...). But if there was something obviously wrong for a requested category I think they would issue the log book under another more appropriate one.

Sure Steve-o...and in the meantime you should remove the off topic posts (ie not SAU club events) from your post. Thanks for following forum rules.

good man Brad, thanks for the offer. Saturday would be perfect are you bringing something down to MRA?

he bloody better be at round 1 MRA, otherwise I'll be pissed at working my arse off at this time of year. today it got the guards rolled, oil cooler half done and new super duper custom clutch ready to go in.

I just spotted a silver 25X on the main motorway in Auckland

same, I screwed the nut back on and bashed them out. even safer than using the same method on a wheel stud because there is no bearing getting f**ked up at the same time. What do you think about the ikeya adjusters? I wasn't convinced because they only move the lower arm point, not the upper arm point as well.

umm Brad that is already sold, you can't sell it again.

yes you will be able to hear the relay click, it is over on the passenger A pillar near the door sill. while it's not normal, it is possible that the alarm kills power to the computer. But even so the alarm would not immobilise immediately that you turn off the car, so it won't be that. I just checked on the stagea, the PFC hand controller turns off when the eccs relay does, about 1 sec after turning off the ignition. BTW the eccs relay un-earths the computer, it doesn't cut the power.

haha good research....only a little hurt that you left my national championship off And it makes the point that nothing nissan is doing much at all at the serious level of motorsport. The 2 winners you listed were 1x rwd and 1x 4wd....and both in the strange world of IPRA racing. The fact remains, a 33 gtst is an excellent choice for a track car - cheap to buy, easy to find bits, easy to power up, can run large tyres for it's size, double wishbone all round unlike the S chassis.

well for that matter, show me the list of nissans (2wd or 4wd) that have won a national or state champs in the last 5 years?

I would have to check when the screen turns off, but the ECU must turn itself off using the ECCS relay otherwise it won't save settings first. In the race car, if I turn off the car using the kill switch instead of the key it never saves data for that reason. But if you are using the standard wiring that should not be the issue

Yes, unfortunately a perfectly healthy wet style battery can die from a single flattening (is that even a word?). I'd start by swapping in a different battery.