Duncan

Well I give up on Neil posting up...here are some (crap phone) pics: And most important, the big mod engine bay. Yes, that is a front mount cooler In for log booking on Sunday

sure, but you are a brake whore I've had perfect results with these, even at targa and long races. I've bought 3 sets now for different cars (1 and 2 bolt bridges) and had no problem since the fit/clearance problems on the first set 5+ years ago.

BTW....got this back again lately, and it is running brilliantly. I love the surprised look when the old stagea whooses past in peak hour. fuel useage is better now, but still poor. I haven't had it on the dyno but will post up when I do - it is running very well and making over 300kw for sure (definately makes more power than the race car it is meant to tow). Injectors are now gtr 440s, but the standard AFM is running out of resolution so I don't want to push it further - I am very happy and have no further mods planned for now. Not until I build the new race car, anyway

good brakes are damn cheap: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18716&cat=&page=5

looks like good welding - did you work to the CAMS manual or are you not going to log book it?

lol I'm willing to bet you have the fastest GTR in town. Anyway, on topic, $uperlap is a once a year event with super $$$ cars. Looks like bad value for money to me. If you are serious at giving it a go you need to work with someone who knows how to prepare a gtr - bolt ons, no matter what brand or price are not going to get you close. for example, the top local cars this year were all supported from an engineering view by one supercar team or another. Looks like you have sufficient power sorted, so all you need is a fully custom suspension setup, huge weight saving and custom tyres straight from the manufacturer that other competitors can't buy. Oh, and a professional driver. Then you are a shot for top 10

meh I paid $42k for the last 33 gtst I bought....I guess I am a bit old school

good commitment, results and thread and excellent work from Yavuz as usual. For those wondering, a dead stock rb26 has the same CAS issue, although in my case we just lived with it (no choice in a production race car). Anyone with datalogit can pull the same data from any RB I bet.

smoke sounds like a turbo oil seal (early). a little leaks down the dump while off, then starts to burn out once hot. it can seal up under boost depending on where it is farked so no smoke then. nfi on the compression.

I do have problems with ie9 on win7, but none of those ones. I have issues with pics showing properly inline, and the pages are very slow to load.

yep. lots of angles, a few screwdrives/pry bars, and slowly. I've never been able to get a puller past the bloody oil pump flange either

yes there is an easy way but it may be too late. make sure it comes off straight. even a slight angle on it will jam it so damn tight you will never get it off. I get them off 9 times out of 10. I do still have 1 crank with a timing gear and oil pump on it that I never worked out. worst comes to worst, you can cut it off.

Yeah I've driven one and I think they are excellent for a larger family. even the performance was reasonable (ie not a slug). One important point to note, AFAIK there is no compliance for Elgrands other than as a camper van with no seats in the rear. ie if you find one with 8 seats or whatever they have, make sure it has been engineered as an 8 seater. I'll bet 99% of them are illegal 8 seaters and therefore super dangerous legally.

Yeah I'll be down the night before too. Very convenient to just wake up and be at the track instead of a 2+ hour drive. And yes Jeremy x100....no-one is coming with grog in the system the next day, jsut a couple of shandies nothing silly.

here is the information from the 32 GTR service manual on piston grades. I guess it is highly likely to be the same. How are you going to have this motor measured and assembled? I would let the engine builder worry about this, keep in mind the grades 1-3 are only 0.01mm different, or 4thou. They are not the usual oversize options of 0.05/0.1mm

brand new nismo injectors come in shmick nismo boxes....not dope baggies

I've never had issues with the dba rotors on my race car, and these prices are great. Lots of people had trouble with DBA4000 rotors cracking 3-5 years ago, but it hasn't been an issue since

umm Malcolm has been a regular, active and long term member of the club. I'm sure if he is not currently a member it is because he is not aware his membership has expired

BTW...cost of obtaining, cleaning and hiflowing an injector are pretty bad compared to a properly designed, new injector too. So it doesn't really make sense to me either way these days - big, suitable injectors are available outrageously cheap these days

They were hiflow standard injectors (back in the old days, race regs required standard injectors but they did not specifically exclude hiflowing). Instead of having a nice cone spray like a standard injector, it was more like looking at a garden hose. The problem basically was the high flow injectors would not make any more power, they would just use more fuel.....worst of both worlds. Also, from a tuning perspective, unless it was tuned really rich it would ping like it didn't have enough fuel. Which in hindsight was perfectly clear because the fuel was there but was not being burned properly because it wasn't atomised properly.

yeah would be interesting to see, the ones I checked were terrible. Same problem upping the base fuel pressure too, incidently.

Unfortunately I've had the opposite experience. Remember the most important thing about an injector is how it atomises fuel, not how much fuel it can pass at 100% open. You will literally require 20% less fuel from an efficient injector/one designed for your intake manifold setup. Unfortunately running a drill through an injector is not exactly precision engineering. I would want to see a standard and hi flow injector side by side on a flow tester, looking at the spray pattern before I would accept it is OK.

Agreed, about 300 is right for those turbs at 20psi. They are pretty crap unfortunately, you would have 350+ with the same setup running -5 of similar instead (and with less lag). Dropping the zorst was a good call, and the other stuff like intake, cooler, airbox etc would be fine for that power level. Are you certain the timing is correct, and what cams does it have? Sure there is no boost leak and that the fuel pressure is OK?

you know what....that is so sensible, and yet it took so amazingly long to happen. Here's hoping it will be happening at WSID soon too, looks like it is just Willowbank for now.

I finally got the 34 rims on. They actually clear the brakes AND have enough room for wheel balancing weights....big step forward in my world....