Duncan

easiest way to check that is a fuel pressure gauge, any decent dyno will have a mechanical one handy. if not, you can remove the fuel rail return at the tank return and run it into a bucket. If you get no fuel at max torque/boost, the pump is not up to scratch

haha good score, there can't be many of them left around! In street use you won't notice too much (unless you drive like me all the time). I'm sure 4 is fine On the track, 4-6 depending on what you prefer, your tyres and wheel alignment and how healthy your attessa system is. 10 if it is wet and you aren't running more than about 20min at a time 0 if you like skids everynow and then.

I found it excellent...particularly becaues Raceworx is my race team I didn't mention that because it has been out of production for years. But if you can find on around, grab it. They do come up second hand. They were priced a little above the ebay ones but were much more controlable. Once they were out of production Mountainrunner's ones became the best option from my point of view because they have the same or more control as the Raceworx ones did. They are just a little more expensive, but still very cheap for the performance you gain.

Disc size itself is unlikely to cause an issue - which caliper are you thinking, how does the piston size relate to the original, and how much further out is the caliper than standard to fit a 322mm disc?

There are few places that make these any more, even grid I think don't now days. The 2 choices I know of are Mountainrunner on these forums from QLD (he makes an excellent unit, lots of options, display, and excellent local support), or a mob on ebay that put $20 of components in a box and charge $200 for it (this also works pretty well, just missing the fine adustment). Either will be miles better than stock in an r32

Radioactive cars will just save you money in dash and interior bulbs as they light themselves up Everything is being checked at the ports before it is allowed on the ship, and the smart buyers are using portable geiger counters to check the cars. But in speaking to a friend who buys a lot over there, they have never had anything even come close to registering a dangerous reading....

no you need to hack the whole harness up. There is 1 input, 6 outputs from those pack. 1 output goes to each injector. But it's not a hge deal

same time you are giving your's it's first long runs Mark, the SAU track day....

no, they are not all the same (well maybe in seat belting ability, but not in usability). Look for 5 or 6 point, never 4 (4 doesn't deal with the biggest issue, submarining) Always get the wider one (3" from memory), the wider they are, the more comfortable on long runs. Make sure they have a rotary buckle, much easier to use day to day and in a rush (eg car on fire) If you can, check the adjusters. Good quality belts/adjusters slide smoothly, cheapies dont and get caught up.

How did your car go at the Ash-nats Roy?

Maybe he decided not to build it after what happened to Paul's(ex-snowy's) car on the weekend....that was very nasty. Glad those guys are ok, they must have been rattled. I heard Neil loves Cheryl like a daughter and may be afraid of driving her quickly.

lol that's why I love the stagea section....I'm not the oldest idiot in here, not by a long shot I still smile everytime the stag goes whoosh-tutututu

Spotted a silver M35 in Andy's driveway tonight, I think it may have been Andy. BTW brilliant weather for stags in sydney tonight

lol Merli probably just walked away from the car when he found out what the workshop owner wanted to charge for the work.

dammit where are the updates???? I heard this damn car is rewired, has cage, seats, belts, steering wheel, tow hooks, window nets, kill switches, checkerplate floors etc etc and is ready to run at the SAU day. Any truth?

Hi mate, give Mark at Hills motorsport a call, he will have a 33 GTR PFC around. 9476 1777

got my epson EJ1 and nismo dash working again....and worked out the TV tuner has died (I just assumed it was some wiring issue)

Good to cross paths again, it's been a while. The brakes are actually why I was there..... while they do technically "fit" under the current rims, they are so close that you can't put balancing weights on the wheels, and it's finally tipped me over the edge to grab some larger wheels. Did you get th oil change done OK?

my plans next year? probably a last season with the 32 in prod cars, then build something a little quicker. It is getting very long in the tooth and no chance against other things like evo X running a "standard" 1.6bar (I get 0.8 bar). I would like to do some more irace/aasa/mra etc but it always depends on when the car is running, state round dates and budget

ahh yeah, some practicality lost, but otherwise it's pretty good. I like a home built race car, they can have heaps of good ideas. Like the rear door on that one for instance

yep, that is indeed a good start. too small but at least it gives an idea of how they would look. actually that looks like a well built car at a glance

lol that's one of the commonwhores from my category, production cars. the car he took out in turn 1 is a very experienced rally driver but new circuit guy, must have been quite a surprise. Anyway....good luck for those entering the EC national sprint....but definately not for me at that price to track time ratio

The tyres and size should be OK on face value - how old are they? What are your rear wheel alignment settings? Do the wheels tramp (bounce) or spin evenly? Is it 1 wheel spinning or both?

anyone seens pics of a stag with big wheel flares?

jeebus. 2nd broken shock this month. I'd love any theories about how that happens in a double wishbone setup....loose or missing bottom nut is the only way I can think of