Duncan

lol you still in france pete? warm up has started (mine, not the cars')

beer is cooling. still got 14 hours, should be enough. bathurst is that special day when beer can start before midday.

meh there are plenty of series with variety out there, people just aren't watching them because all the marketing comes from cockrane's supertaxis, and all the audience and sponsors go straight there as a result. Australian GT and National and NSW Production cars are 3 excellent examples of variety on the grid.

camber arms are easier to install, have more adjustment, and will be noisier and last much less time

no way is any other brand going to put up $500k+ per car to enter the series.

mmmm bathurst = beer one of these each, should be a good day not sure if I will get to watch all 4 rwc games as well as the jap gp, but I will do my best. might even extend the weekend into monday if I need to...

hahaha you said flange! The saab motors run pretty low boost 5-7psi,....maybe look into a cheap boost controller and dyno run to make sure it all is safe. BTW nothing wrong with saabs, the less GM (ie earlier) the better. Our old convertible did oran park in under 1m.

really? I'd hit it. I lol'ed when I saw the factory GT R35 had smaller wings than the superlap cars

The nuts themselves are easily replaced with another wheel nut with M12x1.25mm pitch. Any auto parts shop will carry it. If you need the whole wheel stud replaced in the hub, any decent mechanic can do it, nothing tricky there.

+1 And....the main previous issue was probably the amount of toe at the front, which they have corrected. At the rear there is about 1/4o adjustment to camber available from factory.

Excellent post....and it leads me to ask a question. Is "closing and honing" a rod's big end or cam tunnel the same operation as "tunnel boring" a block? What exactly is involved? And does closing and honing a rod's big end shorten your stroke? I've had interestng results when measuring capacity/stroke on some of my race motors

totally agree...I was thinking full circuit/multi car in this case. But getting easy and accurate timing for texis is no doubt also on the committee's to do list....I reckon a boring old IR beam like in a shop would be a good starting point

Speaking of timing, "The Lap Timers" thread is over here. Only 2 options so far but I'm sure there are lots more to come.

OK, so thinking further....I obviously use track based timers at race meets too....so here's my thoughts on Dorian timing Name: Dorian Timer Price: $can't bloody remember for the car (at least $400), + $000s for the track. Eastern Creek and Wakefield have Dorian installed. Or Rented by the organising club about $500 for the day for 50 timers. Features: Sends a signal to the track loop each time you pass the start line Good Points: Results end up on the internet for everyone to see (www.natsoft.com.au). Very accurante (1/1000th second) Bad Points: Results end up on the internet for everyone to see. Need to charge beforehand. No in car display so you have to check after the session. No more detailed data/gps/logging inputs etc

Other types of timers I can think of: Track based timing (eg Dorian) Phone based GPS High frequency GPS (phone frequency is slooow) Full race dash/loggers Look up the time on an incar video Stopwatch outside the car

The discussion from the track day thread reminded me I was going to put up some information on lap timers after the Marulan Track Day...... well the problem there was I tried 3 different apps on my phone and had a 100% failure rate trying to set up the track to do timing. User error no doubt....anyway..... I use this lap timer in the race car Name: Intercomp lap timer Price: ~$500 (ouch) Features: Stores single lap times based on a beacon on the side of the track. Displays last and best lap times. Stores data to check later. Good Points: Easy to setup. You can adjust the IR sensitivity Bad Points: Batteries always bloody flat. Very basic, no real logging, track maps, corner speeds etc etc. No external inputs for other data. So.....others who use lap timers, post up what you've used with the same format.

Posts regarding timing etc removed on the author and club's request, as they were getting off topic for this event thread.

Yeah I kinda skipped the troubleshooting, this is what I've tried. Run the intercom off a seperate battery (ie no link to the car's electrical). Perfect Run seperate earth for intercom (was shared). Interference Run seperate power for intercom (was shared). Interference Run sheilded + and - from battery to intercom, routed away from other wires. Interference Add small (and later large) filter on the positive of both the intercom and o2 sensor. Interference BTW the interference is not specific to the PMD gear, the Terraphone had the same issue.

Yep, everything same same, with the possible exception of sway bar and sway bar bushes.

+1, I had the wrong girdle fitted to a block, after all the final measuring was done. fortunately in this case we could hear straight away it wasn't right and pulled it down again before damaging anything except bearings. They must always either be a pair, or be tunnel bored.

Yes I have....although I think it was load, not boost. I spun a big end bearing shortly after. seriously.

hmm been a while since an update. Firstly, this setup is excellent. The quality and toughness of the components kills anything else I've seen right up to the big $$ stuff. Secondly, the after sales service from PMD has been excellent. Quick answer of phone and email questions, and they re-programmed both radios to the new 80 channel setups + firmware upgrades at no cost. Even got a stubby cooler which was the clincher. Finally....my car has interferance from the bloody wb 02 sensor controller. I've tried literally everything to seperate them, any time the intercom and 02 sensor are on there is interferance. I can't think of any solution but a relay to turn off the o2 sensor when I hit the push to talk button....any other ideas appreciated.

put good, new semi slicks on it then report back.

+1 32gtr and 32 gts4 are the same front and rear

yeah that was my suggestion, bunnings will have some sizes of sticky backed foam but clark rubber will have a better range. If you can't get the right size buy larger and cut down with the dremel