Duncan

lol, I guess they don't get Wilfred in Seppo land. Interesting article, I'd like to see the equivalent from each of the other top teams. For those that haven't read it, it says "We weren't trying to hide anything, we have some trick cylinder head and run 40psi boost, and we imply but don't say that everyone else is cheating but we are clean"

nope.....you need to die in a crash instead of fade into obscurity to be the best of all time

easy tiger

If you want to modify it, the C34 series is your only real option. There is a world of pain trying to get more than a small increase in power in an M35. Some people have succeeded getting more power but it is not simple. Other than that, they are quite different cars, the M35 is a lot newer design and more luxury focussed. If mods aren't important, drive both and the decision should be easier.

is your car auto, and does it beep in reverse? yes it should have a "lights on/no keys" warning chime. But it may be a combined unit for reverse, headlights and overspeed. If you can't get the factory one working you can buy and install a generic one from Jaycar.

Yep, sure is Look for results in a future newsletter

Scott, I have chased MDTC but they haven't responded - I would assume they have no timing but you can bring your own. Jarrad, extinguishers not required, but if you have one it is a good idea to bring it to any motorsport day. I've sent my entry in today....still a few spots left I think!

funnily enough, the only email I have is Christiaan [email protected]. Or, Fenix Autoparts Distributors Pty Ltd (02) 9648 4668 U 45/ 2 Slough Ave SilverwaterNSW2128

Fenix are a good choice - made in NZ, not china, and good local support. Discounts for NSW club members too.

Sorry, but there is no way tyre limits will work. No category in Oz including mine has been successful in stopping cheating when tyre limits are implemented. Too many ways to get around them, and if you are willing to spend $300k+ on a car for super sprints, you better beleive some of them will be hapy to cheat on something so important. And I also saw tyres in the pits with japanese stickers on board - no way was everyone buying commercial tyres from oz suppliers.

no, the water temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator is for the additional A/C thermo fan only. The ecu/dash water temp sensor will be on the motor somewhere. On the GTR it is on the intake manifold, not sure about gtst.

meh. in a few years we'll forget his failed comeback and go back to saying he was a "hard racing legend" its funny how quickly people forget what arseholes some drivers were

I lol'ed. Why doesn't nissan build a sphere?

Brad/Risking just organised one to be fitted for me, maybe shoot him a pm

search for edward lee's on here before trying them.... head back to japlink and ask for Todd....they are normally very helpful so it's probably worth another try. They are big supporters of the skyline scene too. but as said before, don't rule out private sellers, especially for cars that are known by club members.

fjp510....still 12 spots so you'll be fine

Yes, and no! It's actually been off the road for about 6 months because it had a nasty oil leak on the dyno (adapter plate warped), leading to low oil pressure at full noise. It's all been cleaned and new bearings are ready to go....it's just not getting to the fron of the list because I am building a house atm. I'll update when it's on the road again, in the meantime we've been running around in a cube

what's with all the rooty hill haters?? that place deserves it's own postcode!

Grab one of the Fenix radiators from via the member's forum...they usually have them in stock, and a good price

Agreed....but the part posted above is what almost always wears first in the skyline steering rack. It has some nylon parts that wear.

yeah I was thinking 235/45/17, and maybe they are a little more expensive 12 months later. But still, they are 30-50% cheaper than dunlops....big difference to anyone except superlapers

The ECU turns itself on and off using the ECCS relay. This gives it time to save settings etc before it turns off. So...start by replacing the relay, maybe it has failed and is constantly on. Or even easier, replace the ECU with a known good one and check again because it could be a simple short internally

don't worry about the rubber pad, just put the stands directly under a solid part of the car. You should not put a chassis stand under the sills, or even the chassis rails. What you should look for is one of the more solid locations, like the front or rear subframe, the rear diff, swaybar mounts or suspension mounting points

Very similar results to Harry's above. I've been running a single set of them (Hard) and they are wearing well. The only reservation I've had is their wet performance. I've used them twice in the (very) wet and it was a disaster both times. BUT, I was running a dry alignment with stiff springs, lots of camber and lots of caster. So I can't really blame the tyres until I either run some other tyres in similar conditions with the same alignment, or sort out a wet alignment and try them again. Overall....I think they are excellent for their price. If I could afford $600 a tyre I'd probably use dunlop dz03...but I can't so I'm going to very happily stick with these at half the price. I've also run them at 32 and 34psi, and haven't found a major difference, so they seem to react well to a range of pressure and temp. Haven't really had the chance to try them lower and higher than normal but I will do so next day I get a chance to test.

Agreed....many workshops will say anything to avoid their responsibility under the Fair Trading Acts to provide goods that are fit for the purpose they were sold. The business that you the customer pays, is the one responsible for warranting the whole set of goods and services you paid for. If they have an issue with the supplier they need to take it up with the supplier