Duncan

can't seeing it being an issue....just grab anyone who crashes out on day 1 or 2 and get their accom

I have the same issue, only about 50%-70% of mails coming thru

99% likely you have put the fuel lines the wrong way around. the feed from the tank goes to the fuel filter and then the fuel rail inlet. the return to the tank goes to the fuel pressure regulator. even more likely since you said there is pressure in the line to the FPR, there really should be none there.

yeah easy to test....block off the vacuum from the motor to the booster and see if the feel changes. I ran the race car with a busted booster years ago it was terrible (pedals designed for no booster have a different leverage). BTW I owe you an overheating pm....one day that motor will be stripped, next few weeks I hope to have info

yeah be careful I rekon you could manage to damage the profec b if you short the wrong wires...

engine shut down mid corner is no big deal, I have had a motor stall mid corner while racing before. yes the brake booster will run out within a 2-3 seconds, and yes the steering gets heavier. but it is certainly not some sort of dramatic spin off the track backwards thing - that only happens if the motor locks solid and the clutch is in. in fact I didn't realise it had stalled for a few seconds among all the fun - certainly not dangerous just unexpected

ahh excellent choice....safe AND cool. not many cars like that, that normal people can afford!

Ray,.....over here! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...-2-t307114.html

I've got Gary's bilsteins in both my stagea and 32 gtr race car. Excellent mono shock damper, way better than anything else in the up to 1500 price range. Obviously there are better shocks again in the $4k+ range.

haha that's what I thought too! Looks like an excellent project, will be good to see how a brand name jap kit goes, haven't seen any full hks setups in Oz yet except Quinn's targa car.

why is a nistune (or unichip for that matter) illegal? they are not programmable on the fly, and the factory ECU is just as retunable as they are. Surely the final emission is the only issue for legality? Plenty of shops in NSW that can provide a tune that will get you past the emissions test, why would Vic be different?

or just plain old worn rings. try a compression test

saw the greddy thing today....looks as cool as it you would think! I run the Ruzic Engine Monitor in my race car...pm Mountainrunner on here to get hold of one. Excellent piece of kit at a fraction of the cost of similar things, but you will need to know wiring to install it, or get someone to do it

yes the are 4 spot, and they would be an excellent and cheap upgrade. you might need to upgrade again later but the 33 gtst/32 gtr brakes should be under $500 a set. I don't know about swapability between na and turbs. Assuming they are 5 stud hubs I think you can almost certainly fit pretty much any nissan stuff front and/or rear, but that is not a guarantee

goddamn hobbits need a race track now???? just kidding, we should all have one

I am not sure of the exact rules, but importers used to do the same for r32 gtr (ie only 1 brake light on each side lights up) I assume it is an ADR requirement. No doubt they just cut the wires or changed the globe, it would have been the cheapest and easiest option. I have no idea what ADRs have agains double brake lights???? And I wonder if the advent of LED lights have caused a rule change

oh man....I admire your dedication for collecting nissans (a problem i share....) but NA and auto???? ouch.

I've only ever seen custom setups. why do you ask? and you mean gearbox specifically, right? I would be more worried about transfer case (uses a slipping wet clutch) and rear diff first

yeah sadly all jap import speedos are in dog years 41000klm/9 years, about 4555klm a year? don't think so.... I guess they took 100,000 off for you

the hell he does my sump has been there 12 months longer than your shitbox.

yeah thats not really ideal though. as per the cams manual, 10o up or down is recommended, more than 45o does not pass. And most seats will have the rear eyebolts at more than 45o. still better than just lap sash at holding you in place, but I think it can be genuinely dangerous in a big crash (pushing down on your shoulders/spine)

losing, you mean under 13.8v? normally when the regulator dies it charges high not low I thought. Is the earth OK? easy enough to put a re-conditioned alternator in

yeah bit hard to guess without a multimeter....get a battery or borrow one. where are you?

i agree re fuel cut btw....would be a hell of a fluke to get enough fuel to fire but not enough to stop pinging. would be a very small window considering it would need to go over say 12:1 but not more than say 15:1

brad....get off the internet and build me a sump unless you are as drunk as I am