Duncan

yep that is the whiteline upper control arm kit. only the outer end is adjustable so if you need to adjust camber more than 1o you will need to buy 2 camber kits. and yes radius rod = castor rod. you should buy adjustable bush for that as well. the upper arm bushes are a bit of a pain to remove, you may not want to try it yourself unless you are sure you know what you are doing

alex at redline rotary in auburn is your man. genius with wolfs, has done a few in skylines too

good to see.....lots of club cars coming in NSW atm

go the dattos

Hi mate, assuming the motor is healthy and has a safe tune there is nothing to worry about. don't let it get too hot (you said only 4-5 laps so that will be fine) redline 10w40 is fine yes absolutely use the best brake fluid you can. motul rbf600 is the good stuff, about $30 a bottle from bike shops, its the best $30 you will ever spend on your car. we have hired Oran Park on 4 october, you should come along then

probably....what rear end is it? you need to look for 2 bolt holes on the flat part of the subframe

forklift, big winch on a trailer, engine crane, big trolley jack in that order. You'll never lift a front cut by hand

what sort of suspension is under the car now? odds are if its that low that it is adjustable seat springs - ie you can probably raise the car to a sensible level with what you already have

whereabouts are you based Marcus? any decent import workshop should be able to get to the bottom of it. what made you get the oil checked, is there some other problem?

why do you want to pay $5k to get rid of 4wd?

the bush at the bottom of the gearshift for sure...you described the feeling perfectly

not familiar with the local MCSA rules, but turbos have a 1.7 multiplier on capacity. So if class C is up to 2000cc the silvia won't make it. You would be 1998x1.7 = 3397. Don't know about the "marque" bit, under normal cams rules s14 fits into category 2 (sports cars) and normally production sports cars

BTW I can't see you gtr getting any loving in the next 6 months Chris....new toys are amazing things for making you ignore old ones

haha group buy then...I'll take a set for our sports sedan too Local regs allow up to 100mm wider, and I assume Brad is using GTR dimensions as a base (ie it will be log booked as a gtr not gtst for the extra base width).

pressure!

well...wide band 02 set is $256 over here http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm, and I still think 1500 is understating the cost of 6 sensors, controllers, display, manifold installation etc. but,....no doubt if you have spend over $10k on a motor, 1500 is only a little more for safety. in practice....almost everyone tunes a car with a wide safety margin in o2 ratios to deal with the risk....how many dyno graphs on here are 11.2-11.7 at full load. Like I said unless you are after the last %% in performance you will just accept this margin...I certainly do and have never had a motor die with a tuning problem , and the old girl still makes enough power to keep up with the 6l commodores

btw if you do ever want to put the car back to stock after acin git (no way lol) you can always but a new dash for 100-200. nothing compared to the cost of a tyre let alone a full safety prep for racing

hahah this is door to door racing remember....if you are not willing you get close enough to rub panels you might as well stick to super sprinting - its the getting close/direct competition that is the core of the excitement of racing. If you aren't willing to get close you will get eaten alive by your competitors who are. And once you've tried it anything else on a race track will seem a little second rate.

pfft of course I'm correct

no they are just falling in line with cams rules as the earlier comment said (must comply with the rules are the time). At some stage (maybe pre 2000?) alloy cages were fine, you just need to poke around older race cars. I'm sure AASA are trying to give older cars (there are heaps in sheds around the country) a place to race cheap. In fact CAMS allow any material or design you want if you have it structurally certified by an engineer ($5k plus), the rules they publish are just the cheap way to meet their minimum requirements This is the current cams regs which you will have to comply with http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_re...dule_J_Q309.pdf. Regarding the front legs it specifically says "Front roll bar: Similar to main roll bar but its shape follows the windscreen pillars and top screen edge......The front leg of a front roll bar or of a lateral roll bar must be straight, or if it is not possible, must follow the windscreen pillars and have only one bend with its lower vertical part" No way you can do that in a skyline when the dash is 20cm deep at the bottom of the a pillar. And there's no point having a roll cage thats not safe anyway. If its a race car cut the dash, its easy and cheap. I guarantee if you are racing the car a cut in the dash will not be the last damage you do to it

longs underneath will be fine, esp for AASA. Double check with them if you are concerned but the whole concept is cheap, safe racing without needing over the top rules. around the dash is not possible in a skyline/silvia while meeting cams regs. you need to stay net to the a pillar, and only bend once. which is very sensible from a safety perspective, I reckon those thin tube jap cages thst bend 3 times will fold like paper in a real crash

yep same, to me this is the safest way to do it. yeah I think we are using the same kit then. I've just replaced my sensor after 5 years which I reckon was a pretty good life I'm sure EGT is the best way to do it but you need 6 bungs in the exhaust ports, 6 sensors, 6 controllers. All too hard for your average street car, but probably worth it when you need that last 2% by tuning fuel in individual cylinders

The 02 sensor is designed to work a certain distance from the ehaust ports, normally about 50-80cm. Best to have it arund the cat somewhere but that just isn't reasonable for a shop to weld bungs on your exahust just to tune ti

re the 2nd fireproof layer all you need is cotton undergarments, no need for the expensive thermal gear. 2 layer suit is a better idea but if yo ualready have a 1 layer cotton stuff will do.

Yeah speed doesn't kill. It's the sudden stop at the end that does it