Duncan

good luck with the build Noddy....I'd love to pull the engine out after 3 years to check it was OK lol. as for the harnesses, I use rollcage for 2 rear points, factory seatbelt points for rear 2 and have put an eyelet with reinforced plate in the floor at the correct location for points 5 and 6. Factory points are great you know they have been comprehensively engineered and tested.

I've had plastic crimpies in the car for years

yeah there are a billion bushes and bits that can wear....but the subframe bushes are a good bet. actually replacing them is a big job (subframe out) so many people chuck in "pineapples" to lock the damaged bushes in place. other than that....one of: diff backlash worn wheel bearings worn lower control arm ball joints worn rear lower inner control arm bushes worn rear upper inner control arm bushes worn rear upper outer control arm bushes worn rear upper inner traction arm bushes worn rear upper outer traction arm bushes worn rear hicas balljoints worn rear inner tie rod ends worn rear outer tie rod ends worn diff bushes stuffed cv joints (axles) stuffed tailshaft uni stuffed tailshaft cv gearbox clearance or bearing issues worn gearbox mount bushes

not to mention you need to pull the whole motor apart and clean it thoroughly to remove the bearing material from everywhere. you are mad if you just chuck new bearings in and bolt it back up again

Basically Selby bought the factory when Whiteline moved their manufacturing off shore a couple of years back. Selby's ownership has changed and Gary is no longer involved. Basically - Selby's are a brilliant bunch to have around, I love that we can get hold of locally made sway bars for these cars. Whiteline though remain a great choice for cheap, generic sway bars that will suit 80% of cars....and bigger swaybars are about the best modification you can make for a car's handling BTW yes Cisco hollow gear will be a 1kg or 2 lighter if you think that is more important that price and adjustability. Obviously they are also softer for the same diameter so make sure you get the next size up if you want the same effect.

sorry mate I've got some bad news for you....they might discourage them but it won't stop em....I've still got drool everywhere!

hey they both start with "T" Thanks Shant...we are very much an "amateur" show compared to the Autosalons of the world, but the committee have been working their arses off getting a great location, great feature cars, great sponsors and a long entry list. I reckon the guys are doing a great job considering its a second job! We still have heaps of space available for cars and want to make this show HUGE! If you thought about coming along but don't think your car is special enough.....ENTER! This is a club event not a global domination and its all about participation

Maybe no wheelspin is occuring Seriously though I'm not sure that wheelspin is actually in input to the ATTESSA ECU - those pins may just got straight through to the ABS computer in the same place. I am pretty sure Lat G, Long G and throttle position are by far the most important inputs so I would suspect TPS first.... BTW I is there any truth to the rumour this car will be on display at the SAU NSW Show n Shine in 2 weeks?

As per the notes above - forum rules do not allow you to name a business in a negative light to protect the forum owners. This thread has been cleanup up, and as long as you don't post the name or obvious details the thread can say. You are welcome to use private messages to share the business name but not posting publically.

well....if it is a big end bearing the noise will get louder with revs. so have a good listen at idle then quick rev. if the knock is still there but it gets louder/the note changes, it may well be dead. I take it you've still got oil pressure? The open top on the can is probably safe for now, like you said it should have a filter. What breathers are on the stock system and what do you have hooked up atm?

drag it on down.....it doesn't need to be able to drive to take part we'd strongly prefer entries before if at all possible so we can organise layout, space etc.

yep got yours EK

I reckon you should post up in the motorsport section what you are after

got yours a couple of time stilo guys no real need to confirm entries, we will shortly post up a list of forms and monies received for everyone to check.

sure....whatya need just standard stuff to get it moving? genelle....i reckon my race car can give your's a run for worst in show....shes got a fair few scrapes and scratches up close these days

so anyway.....the bleed nipples are there to let air out of the brake lines....air is lighter than brake fluid and travels upward so the bleeder needs to be on top. you should check for a brake bleeding tutorial too because its a horrible thing to get wrong

yeah its been around a bit lately....we've been choosing bricks. not sure what power it puts out, we don't want to break any dynos. we'll probably take a chance and put it on the dyno at show n shine anyway

930cc of nissan 80's powah! + a supercharger + a turbocharger they had some seriously whacked out people working in engineering at nissan in the late 80s.

and before you ask....I just got yours too mitch!

yep got your's too mate!

hahah I thought I wasn't trying that hard at Phillip Island the other day....2 wheels says otherwise

sure did, got it the other day.

if you are going to remember anything....remember there is a brass spigot bearing to put into the rear of the crank for a manual! the box itself is easy the clutch line is easy if you use a straight braided one the pedal and boost assembly is the PITA good luck!

btw morning or arvo? in the morning it was a missfiring POS. in the arvo it was a giant killing race machine. mostly because it got new spark plug leads today. it was so embarressing driving round in a car that sounded like a wrx

f**k you it is the toughest car on the streets