Duncan

well...wide band 02 set is $256 over here http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm, and I still think 1500 is understating the cost of 6 sensors, controllers, display, manifold installation etc. but,....no doubt if you have spend over $10k on a motor, 1500 is only a little more for safety. in practice....almost everyone tunes a car with a wide safety margin in o2 ratios to deal with the risk....how many dyno graphs on here are 11.2-11.7 at full load. Like I said unless you are after the last %% in performance you will just accept this margin...I certainly do and have never had a motor die with a tuning problem , and the old girl still makes enough power to keep up with the 6l commodores

btw if you do ever want to put the car back to stock after acin git (no way lol) you can always but a new dash for 100-200. nothing compared to the cost of a tyre let alone a full safety prep for racing

hahah this is door to door racing remember....if you are not willing you get close enough to rub panels you might as well stick to super sprinting - its the getting close/direct competition that is the core of the excitement of racing. If you aren't willing to get close you will get eaten alive by your competitors who are. And once you've tried it anything else on a race track will seem a little second rate.

pfft of course I'm correct

no they are just falling in line with cams rules as the earlier comment said (must comply with the rules are the time). At some stage (maybe pre 2000?) alloy cages were fine, you just need to poke around older race cars. I'm sure AASA are trying to give older cars (there are heaps in sheds around the country) a place to race cheap. In fact CAMS allow any material or design you want if you have it structurally certified by an engineer ($5k plus), the rules they publish are just the cheap way to meet their minimum requirements This is the current cams regs which you will have to comply with http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_re...dule_J_Q309.pdf. Regarding the front legs it specifically says "Front roll bar: Similar to main roll bar but its shape follows the windscreen pillars and top screen edge......The front leg of a front roll bar or of a lateral roll bar must be straight, or if it is not possible, must follow the windscreen pillars and have only one bend with its lower vertical part" No way you can do that in a skyline when the dash is 20cm deep at the bottom of the a pillar. And there's no point having a roll cage thats not safe anyway. If its a race car cut the dash, its easy and cheap. I guarantee if you are racing the car a cut in the dash will not be the last damage you do to it

longs underneath will be fine, esp for AASA. Double check with them if you are concerned but the whole concept is cheap, safe racing without needing over the top rules. around the dash is not possible in a skyline/silvia while meeting cams regs. you need to stay net to the a pillar, and only bend once. which is very sensible from a safety perspective, I reckon those thin tube jap cages thst bend 3 times will fold like paper in a real crash

yep same, to me this is the safest way to do it. yeah I think we are using the same kit then. I've just replaced my sensor after 5 years which I reckon was a pretty good life I'm sure EGT is the best way to do it but you need 6 bungs in the exhaust ports, 6 sensors, 6 controllers. All too hard for your average street car, but probably worth it when you need that last 2% by tuning fuel in individual cylinders

The 02 sensor is designed to work a certain distance from the ehaust ports, normally about 50-80cm. Best to have it arund the cat somewhere but that just isn't reasonable for a shop to weld bungs on your exahust just to tune ti

re the 2nd fireproof layer all you need is cotton undergarments, no need for the expensive thermal gear. 2 layer suit is a better idea but if yo ualready have a 1 layer cotton stuff will do.

Yeah speed doesn't kill. It's the sudden stop at the end that does it

wierd...you can keep cruise with the manual...mine has it

try a search for "tow" in the stagea section...I got 99 hits....

sparking spectacularly. old rotors are the way to go if you can.

ahh ok I understand now....no you need to keep the stock layout. (I am always thinking skyline )

I reckon you'd be mad to put anything other than a skyline diff/driveshafts at first. strong enough and you've got some already. I saw the progress yesterday, it looks excellent, very light and about the most extreme skyline I've ever seen

yep its all booked in tomorrow for tune and clean up

good to hear, I think you dodged a bullet on this one

well ideally you won't bed in new discs with new pads, the coating on the pads isn't a great first introduction to life for the discs. but if you had to bed in both, yes treat it exactly the same btw i re-read my post above and its not clear. 4-5 hard stops from 140 back to 60 then a slow lap will do it (you will smell the coating baking off, if you don't you haven't warmed them up enough)

good to hear - please confirm once you've done it. BTW I'd be very surprised if the serena front diff fits - unlikely to use the same diff in sump setup that gtr/gts4/stag uses

clean the bores with metho and a clean white cloth. when it stops going grey the bores are clean. then some water through the coolant galleries and air backwards through the oil galleries. assuming its all been professionally cleaned in a hot tank first. brass fitings - wire brush on a grider is perfect. by hand is hard work arp studs - no idea But torque them up the same order as standard bolts ie from centre outwards. remember to do it in 2 or 3 small increments. re the rings...yes there is an up and down and there will be a marking at the end of each on the top. It can be tiny and hard to see though. workshop manual says this re ring gap spacing:

fark that was unlucky....really sad

no you wouldn't. our z has one and people drive into it all the f**king time. its a sucky feature and I can't find the button to turn it off

I don't think so....I've seen catch cans used as boost reserves on rotories and they have bowed out with the pressure (30psi?). It would need to be custom thickness and welding I think

it must be fine...stock location has outlets on the side

yeah the track is probably easier than street.....much easier to do it at 140 back to 60 a few times than 80 down to 20 like you do on the street. punish them a few times until you can smell it good and proper then do a light lap....and you are done