GeorgesR34

LoL I guess you didn't follow up this thread. the PU high flow is a ATR43G3 turbo built with a stock compressor housing and a .82 rear. Means it has larger guts and bigger turbine housing then all of the SS turbos. I've made 287rwkws relatively easy out of it, the average I'm seeing is 280rwkws.

Good read up. don't enjoying 20psi to much unproperly tuned. I've got the same turbo, they makes around the 280rwkws easy. Looking forward to see some results from Toshi.

Just noticed in the Kando thread about cracked td06 turbine wheel. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/page__view__findpost__p__6306795 Compare to what you've offering for sale above, Since above is also made from the same origin, is yours same or better? any idea on whats causing the problem?

high flowed turbo do make noticeably more power on stock ECU, you can run about 10psi of boost without upsetting the factory tune. How ever it doesn't make the full potential unless you have aftermarket ECU, injectors and the rest of supporting mods. The best is to get the turbo installed, then have fuel mods done at your tuners with car tuned on nistune chip. I've been told stock afm support up to 250rwkws, so Z32 AFM might not be necessary for the high flowed turbo.

Question. are you going to make ceramic roller bearing version of the TD06Sl2? I will be pretty up for that.

He's importing parts out of Taiwan then assemble and balance them here of some sort. now with billet wheel and probably ceramic roller bearing soon. lol. be pretty keen to see what he can do in modifing them into a stockie bolton.

Thats is because Stao's running lot more boost most of the time which really shows the advantage of a built motor plus the all the expansive supporting mods and he's only uses one of the top tuner in Australia. He usually post result of a maxed out turbo, no one's crazy enough to run 24~28psi on a stock engine plus their tuners won't let. I hope he can post some results on 15~18psi based.

I run the PU high flow, its just a G3 with factory comp housing and that pulled 287rwkws on 19psi. Simon I remember you were pulling 260rwkws with same turbo on a RB20det? I'm sure it can make the power, just need to sort out every thing else, Stao's already advised parts to get and what not to get.

As far as what I know when they did my PU high flow I had the stock actuator that run on 7psi that tappered off to about 14psi with boost controller Their 14psi actuator that held about 15psi with no boost controller and tappered off to 17psi with boost controller Also their 20psi actuator that held 19psi flate to red line with no boost controller (That was the best) . The 20psi far as I know is what they use as default.

Dude they already done back to back tests. check: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__860 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__1120 Check index.

any more development on this turbo? thats about the best 300rwkws any one's every made on pump. Can you run this core into my current high flow?

sorry double post

^^^ He already answered to that. and how welling are you making your car road legal? He's also saying the results you are seeing are the maximum power can be archived. So SS1PU maxed out 280rwkws on 22psi, and 255rwkws on 17psi. G3 maxed out 330rwkws on 23psi and 280rwkws on 18psi. PU maxed out 303rwkws on 21psi, and I'm making 287rwkws on 19psi. Depending on the mods you are welling to install, as well as the amount of boost you are comfortable to run.

Seems to be an common issue using HG turbo on JJR front pipes. Pull that rubber piece off and there is a hard plastic pipe in it. Water comes out of there.

There is a white coloured hard rubber pipe under that rubber, water comes out of there when the A/C is on. Just make a plug from a bit of materials in Clark rubber for the frame and cut a hole in the center for that plastic pipe. That would stop any water drop draining into the cabinet. or just connect what ever bit of hose on to that pipe. Is your dump a JJR item as well?

Under that rubber pipe is just a white plastic hose that dumps condensation when A/C is on. The water comes in due to the car's acceleration momentum, get a rubber plug in that size then cut the center section out for that plastic hose. That would stop any water drain in to the cabinet.

Reading your steage section posts you've mentioned that you were chasing a RS4 GTR Stega with new turbo fitted and "just" got beaten. I'm suspecting you've blew your motor long before it got on the dyno, and the dyno tune plus all the threasing after just hurt it more.

Got a mate whom's interested. photo would be nice.

yes as long as you don't run over factory boost level. lol

Never had that on my car.

Mine's dropping off from 20psi to 18psi with their actuator and no boost controller. My car's making 287rwkws with their high flow. Some thing seems very odd with yours.

Can you do this on high flows? by "without direct force feeding in bearing oil supply" do you mean it runs on grease or no longer require engine's oil supply?

No man, you are right. the 2835 is a smaller turbo compare to the ss2 so it should have bit better response, plus you've got cam gears, inlet manifold and etc that would encourage response. The ss1pu is more to contrast to the 2835 in its hp range.

20psi is fine as long as it's been safely tuned. I'm making 287rwkws at 19psi out of their .63 OP6 high flow for over a year. No issues of what so ever. The ATR43SS1PU runs a big .84 rear housing with top notch response using what they call fnt turbine setup so judging by size its not getting hotter then any thing else in its HP range. How ever they are very skeptical with free flow intake and exhaust, So make sure you have them before taking to the tuners. I'm unsure what actuators Stao fitted onto your turbo, ask them to supply a stronger actautor only if boost drops below expectation with act of boost controller. how ever it could also be none actuator related.