Leewah

Hey Vic, I've over over 500 rwkw in my GTR and I'm still listed as a street registered vehicle. I don't think there is such a thing as being classifed as a hot rod in Victoria. I could be wrong though

Thanks for the offer. I managed to get them up onto the Ice Performance site.

1 Earls 25 Row oil cooler measuring 280mmx190mmx50mm 1 Oil filter adaptor 2 oil cooler lines Came off an R33 GTS-T but was never fitted to my GTR due to slackness Asking $850 for complete kit. http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/images/oilCooler0.jpg http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/images/oilCooler2.jpg http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/images/oi...AdaptorSide.jpg http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/images/oi...rAdaptorTop.jpg http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/images/oi...olerPackage.jpg http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/images/oi...olerPiping0.jpg http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/images/oi...olerPiping1.jpg http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/images/oi...ilCoolerTop.jpg

Ooooo, celebrity status am I??? How bout you come to Heathcote on Sunday and I can do it there

Do a search. There are heaps of threads on this topic. Here are some results on the search http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...urbo+twin+setup I personally went for the single for the sake that I wanted big power without big hassles.

Surprisingly, the clutch wasn't that noisy considering it was a triple plate. All multiplate clutches will make the rattling noise when the clutch is in but it was a noise I could live with. People will tell you that the car is making funny noises but it's just a given that they'll make noise when the plates are rubbing against each other. As for the fitting of the clutch, you'll just have to muck around with it. You seem to have bits from all types of Skylines but most parts are interchangable if you can be stuffed machining them. Sorry but I have no idea about the stress on the forks. Someone else on these forums maybe able to answer this question.

Hey Sam, from what I understand which may be incorrect is that the dip (more like a plateau actually ) is due to when the NOS is being injected. The huge increase of fuel being pumped in needs to be burnt and it takes that extra moment to burn it and then power keeps rising again.

I ran an OS triple plate in my GTR for quite sometime and it was fine. It was one of the most pleasent clutches I've driven considering it was a triple plate and my car is driven on quite a regular basis in peak hour traffic. Unlike other clutches I have used, the OS isn't an on/off clutch and there is some slip there if you want it. I think you will find that most triple plates are unsprung as it would only mean that more space is required to fit the springs. Just a note, you won't really need a triple plate in a RWD until you are making over 400rwkw so stick with a single or twin for drivability sake.

Congrats and welcome to Team Defektiv..... Don't stress mate. 2 new tyres should do and then show it to VicRoads. I don't think you'll require a full RWC to pass.

It is because the standard Skyline gearbox is a 1:1 ratio in 4th. Dynoing in 3rd will give a higher, hence false reading.

I haven't seen all that many girlies driving Skylines but I know of some people who drive their Skylines like girls Does this count? Eg. I saw a person driving their burgandy R33 GTS-T on Wed arvo down King St in 2nd at bout 5000rpm. I think he was trying to get attention to his pride and joy revving it's titties off using a stock exhaust.... He got my attention, fricken muppet.

I hope everyone involved is ok and has a speedy recovery. Let this be a lesson to everyone out there, don't think that you are invincible out there. You maybe a good driver but the person who hits you isn't.

Provided that the car is in the same shape as the way I left it last week and the new toys have been added, I can't see why we wouldn't run with NOS again. We did it last week but due to my crap driving skills, our best couldn't be beaten. Gerald didn't get a drive though as the rain came in and ruined the arvo. I hope that with the new toys installed, the 10.47 will be beaten as the MPH from last week was consistantly better than the last outing.

Just notifying others about the meet as not many people check the Events section Also adds to the post count :sly:

Nup, no running on the 21st. It's either 14th for a Test N Tune or teh 27th which is a competition day.

New post in the Events section. Have a look if your interested.

Just wondering if anyone is interested in heading Heathcote Park for some dragging on 14 Dec. LeeWah GTR should be racing as long as we have everything ready by the Thurs before racing. I can't see this as a problem though as it ran last Sunday without problems. We're just adding a couple toys on in an effor to go faster. The ICE Supra may also be running as long as we can get a new clutch installed in time. Details will be updated closer to the date.

In a case like this, the Supra would win hands down. There is no need for thought here. You're comparing 2 different cars here. Although it doens't seem like a lot of difference, consider the cars. R34-GTT - Single turbo, RWD, 2.5 liter - Max output on stock engine, 250rwkw. Supra TT - Twin sequential turbos, RWD, 3 liter - Max output on stock engine, 450rwkw.

Finally a thread which was worth reading through. It's been tough on these forums recently with the amount of mindless babble going on. Hmmm, Supra Vs Skyline....which one is better? If you are talking about dead stock cars and want one for everyday driving on the street and a bit of hoonery, there is no doubt in my mind the GTR (assuming that you are talking about an R33) is better. You have 4 seats, 4WD, a boot and overall a nice road setup. The Supra lacks practicality in that it only has 2 seats, the boot space is minimal and in the wet, it can be a handful, even in stock form. When you get into the minor performance mods (250-270rwkw) such as exhaust, cam gears, front pipes, etc, I would still go for the GTR for the fact that it will still drive like an everyday car with practicality. Then you come to moderate mods where your car starts pushing around the 280-350rwkw mark and turbos (2530s or similar) are changed along with fuel system considerations. The GTR bottom end will hold it but it is a case of how long. If you punish both cars equally and give it full rev changes when you go out, the GTR can be a bit tempramental. The Supra on the other hand, due to being a 3 litre will handle the power a lot better. It doens't have to rev as hard to make the same power due to displacement. The GTR once pushing 350+rwkw will require some bottom end work aswell as headwork whereas the Supra can still run on the stock bottom end. Twin plate clutch is a minimum on both cars but more importanly on the GTR as it is 4WD and more stress is put on the drivetrain when launching or taking off from traffic lights. Brakes should be a consideration if you intend on doing some circuit work though as I have found that the stock pads in the GTR fade quickly when you have to stop from high speeds frequently. Standard ECUs also need to be changed. In the case of the GTR, a PowerFC should surfice if you don't mind the AFMs. I persoanlly went with an Autronic SMC as it was cheaper than a Motec M800 or M8. PowerFCs for Supras are also very expensive so either an Autronic or Motec would be a better alternative, aswell as using MAP sensors rather than AFMs. You may even want to consider larger intercoolers at this stage. When you get to the 350+rwkw mark, both cars need some attention if you want a reliable engine which won't blow up, even though the Supra will still handle this power quite reliably without too much work. If you want to keep the car streetable, you will have to begin considering the turbo setup. This will dictate how much power you are going to make in the end and how much lag you are willing to sacrifice for the power. The bigger the turbo(s), the more lag you will have. The money you spend on the turbo setup here should be the final choice you make for overall power as changing the turbo(s) again later will simply increase the cost of your build. You will now have to spend big to make a reliable streetable engine. Bottom ends and heads on both cars need to be modified if you intend on having the engine last. Forged pistons, strengthened rods, bearings, bigger camshafts. The whole lot should be changed over for tougher parts. The drivetrain such as a triple plate cluch maybe required depending on the type of driving you do. Once you are pushing the 450+rwkw, forget about stock engine parts. Nothing will hold this kind of power reliably. If you didn't change things like pistons, rods, etc in the last power range, it's time to do it now otherwise you'll be driving a hand granade, especially in the GTR. Trust me on this one. I've seen some nasty things happen to shoddy built engines with this power. If everything has been done correctly and shortcuts haven't been taken, this power can be made reliably with correctly sized turbo(s) and lag will be kept to a minimum. My turbo is the same size as a T88 but as it was custom built for my engine, full boost comes in about 1000rpm faster than a T88. The Ice Performance Supra runs on TD-06 20G and considering the size of the turbos and the power it makes, lag is surprisingly minimal. The Supra is still running the stock Getrag gearbox but the GTR is now running an OS Giken Cross Mission gearset with an OS input shaft. I did this for reliabilty sake rather than a necessity but I imagine it would have to be done at some point due to the drag racing we do. In summary, alhtough the GTR is going to cost more in the long run to build to a high power output, I would still choose it over the Supra due to the 4WD aspect and practicality of it. If these 2 things aren't important to you, go the Supra as it will be cheaper to build and more fun wheel spinning all over the place, wet or dry. I know I've forgotten some details here but I'm at work and didn't have much time to think about it all before I typed it. It does cover the most of the important points though. http://iceperformance.com.au/gtr/ http://iceperformance.com.au/supra/

I was pretty happy with the whole thing. The only thing I was a little disappointed about was that the photos weren't as clear as I would have liked. The publisher also managed to screw up by mistakenly put the photo of the fuel system in upside down which makes no sense as the fuel pumps are now above the surge tank...

If you leave a message, someone will get back to you. Don't try calling Nigel's mobile though as he is off to Perth leaving today. If you can't catch anyone on 9512 7591, try calling Gerald directly on his mobile on 0414 359 888. This message has been brought to you by the friendly staff of ICE Performance. P.S. Sorry to highjack the thread. :rave:

Nah, no new records. I was having trouble with launching on Sunday. The best time of the day was a 10.7@138MPH but I also put down a run of 10.9@140MPH which although the time sucked, it showed we had the speed. The 60' times were disgraceful with a best of 1.87. Last time we were out, the 60' times were below 1.7 with a best of 1.65. We're gonna head out again quite soon (either Friday night or the 14th at Heathcote) and see what we can do about bettering the 60' times. It was entirely my fault. The car felt just as solid as previous outings. I only managed to get 4 runs in due to some split silicone hosing in the morning before the rain came in. Another hour and I think we would have seen some good results.

No I don't own the BMW aswell. My brother owns the 330ci convertible which I borrowed for a couple weeks. It's amasing how much .04 makes when you're referring to 526 kw... I stand corrected. The car is still driven on the street when stuff isn't being plugged in. No funny gas plugged in though. Even without the gas, I can still make around 450+ rwkw so it's enough to get from A to B. The thought of an E46 M3 has been in my mind for sometime now and only time will tell whether it will become a reality.

Where did you get 710hp from? 526.3kw = 685hp. Using the "accepted" drivetrain loss of 30%, my engine would have somewhere around the 890hp mark. There are no real solid plans for what happens next to the car. If the idea at the time sounds good, we give it a go

We had to stick with F&F style and use a NOS kit I don't use buttons to activate the NOS though as I could have screwed that righteously. Instead, we use a full throttle switch which activates the NOS when the throttle bodies are at 100%, if not, there is no NOS flowing. It truely is an experience driving a car which spools this hard and this fast!!