hardsteppa

also have set of front King low springs for r33 gtst with 1xPotenza and 1xKYB shocks. Springs all good just some paint scrapes, shocks all good no leaks dents etc. $40 for springs, $30 for shocks, or both for $60

also have set of front King low springs for r33 gtst with 1xPotenza and 1xKYB shocks. Springs all good just some paint scrapes, shocks all good no leaks dents etc. $40 for springs, $30 for shocks, or both for $60

shed clearout of a few things...located in northside Brisbane, can post at buyer's cost. All parts for R33 gtst set of front lower control arms with Hardrace rubber bushes. Bushes have done exactly 3,398k's (as per my logbook photos) and are in as-new condition. Only reason for sale is I have done every other bush on car with Superpro, so decided to fit superpro lca bushes too (didn't notice any difference btween these and superpro). No ball joints but happy to buy new ball joints and press in for you if you pay the cost of them. After $120 for the set (think the hardrace bushes alone cost $109?) brand-new HEL/GK Tech brake lines. Rears only sorry, used the front ones when doing their brake upgrade. $35. set of front and rear stock springs. What can I say, they're stock springs, nothing wrong with them. Pictured in top left corner. $30 or alcohol trades accepted. Rear RS-R springs on tokico Potenza coilovers. Paint's a bit chipped/aged on the springs but otherwise no signs of any issues, shocks are fine, no leaks, dents, damage etc. $60 the set, or could split if needed.

will try again with couple of the pics GK Tech brake lines stock springs

shed clearout of a few things...located in northside Brisbane, can post at buyer's cost. All parts for R33 gtst set of front lower control arms with Hardrace rubber bushes. Bushes have done exactly 3,398k's (as per my logbook photos) and are in as-new condition. Only reason for sale is I have done every other bush on car with Superpro, so decided to fit superpro lca bushes too (didn't notice any difference btween these and superpro). No ball joints but happy to buy new ball joints and press in for you if you pay the cost of them. After $120 for the set (think the hardrace bushes alone cost $109?) brand-new HEL/GK Tech brake lines. Rears only sorry, used the front ones when doing their brake upgrade. $35. set of front and rear stock springs. What can I say, they're stock springs, nothing wrong with them. Pictured in top left corner. $30 or alcohol trades accepted. Rear RS-R springs on tokico Potenza coilovers. Paint's a bit chipped/aged on the springs but otherwise no signs of any issues, shocks are fine, no leaks, dents, damage etc. $60 the set, or could split if needed.

current affairs there chief...you might note that section has just been revised with that information.

^^though, just to reiterate, they're a high quality adapter and very good price, worthwhile upgrade.

nah I don't sorry mate...you should probably ask GK Tech, the company who makes them, how much needs to be ground off, and why they don't give any information, guidelines, photos, anything at all, on the "install" tab on their website, and why they tell you they're a straight bolt-on fitment...which they know is bullshit.

bracket is good quality, thick aluminium with steel thread inserts. For me, and has been confirmed by a few others, they weren't 'bolt-on', there's a reasonable amount of grinding and shaping the inside of the caliper to allow it to fit over the 324mm disc and still reach the mounting holes on the brackets. I was sceptical on doing this but if you have a look at a photo of the caliper pulled into 2 halves, you don't come anywhere near the fluid tube that runs through the middle, so not that much of a big deal, but a bit to be grinded out. Short hard line running off caliper also doesn't match to mounting bracket either of course with the caliper moved down/out. I wasn't keen on leaving the brittle hard line unsupported so got their brake lines as well that mount straight into the caliper. Only done on weekend so still in the bedding in stage but difference is immediately noticeable, as soon as you start to touch the brake pedal. Hope that helps.

Big fan of perfectrun, tho their range seems to have dropped a bit

Cool, will give them a shot, yeah the brakewest ones in psrticular are decent chunky fittings and thick lines, really impressed with them, but are made to mount to stock hardlines not caliper so won't work with brake upgrade.

Just got a set of GK Tech (made by HEL Australia) brake lines for the R33 gtst, and got to say compared to the Nismo and BrakeWest brake lines I have used, they look flimsy as sh*t....might explain why they're so cheap. I know the HEL lines are pretty common, anyone have any issues using them, or any horror stories?

I too am looking for $1000..... but $1000s too cheap dude, they usually go for $3000 to $27000. Glad you posted in the right forum though.

I'd go somewhere in the middle of above opinions. Xforce=ok, nothing awesome but not rubbish either, defintely not rubbish.

What's the problem with the wolf that it keeps needing retune? Have the older 3d v4 on my GT Four and never had an issue with it. Been a great ecu.

Stz automotive in virginia saud they have done those, and apparently are pretty good. Not been to them yet but will be going there soon for my safc neo tuning.

Touch

happy

you can run a hiflow on the stock ecu. I'm doing it without any issues with a hypergear hiflow, brand new core in stock compressor/turbine housings. Hypergear hiflow is what, $960? trading in your old turbo. Proven, and bolt-on. I'm personally a fan of alot of things ebay, turbo is a bit hit and miss though as to what would be good I rekon.

semen

take off the afm and give it a spray with some urine....or afm cleaner ....maybe afm cleaner first. Fixed my idling issue.

Kinugawa actuator, greddy panel filter and fpr sold. apexi avcr still available, some dude on facebook jdm parts is selling just the screen and his solenoid not working for like $100..put em together and you got a working avcr plus some spare parts, jeeez what more you need

for 48 hours only , $10 off everything above and prices include postage anywhere in oz.

you're kind of killing your own arguement there though, if "The effect of opening the BOV is felt everywhere in the inlet tract within a couple of milliseconds of it cracking open." then the assertion "The BOV should be physically located close to the throttle body" - a cpl of milliseconds, it wouldn't matter where you put it, and so you could mount it whereever was most convenient and any performance advantage would be negligible if we're talking a couple of milliseconds.

do you really need a car? can't you catch the bus?