abcent

I was just wondering if there is anyway you can tell what model GTR or what year the an RB26DETT was built by looking at the engine alone? is there anything in the engine number? or small differences btw R32, R33 & R34's? also, if i put an RB26 in a 33gts-t, will there be any clutch change needed? I have a Jim Berry brass clutch in there right now (behind my RB25). will that bolt up the a RB26? thanks for any help. Just looking into the possibility at the moment. Berin

pics to [email protected] cheers

Price DROP!!!! Have to sell quickly otherwise i'll miss the oportunity on my next car. $20,000!!!!!!!! (but i'll be keeping my wheels too) Be fast. AWSOME car at this price, if i didnt need to act fast, there is no way I'd let it go this cheap. 250kW R33 for $20,000. have reciepts for all work done on car, has cost me over $10,000 in modifications ALONE!!

Car only for sale until my next potential project car that is currently for sale gets sold. would consider $22,500, have to act quickly. otherwise, i'll be holding onto my pride & joy for further modification...

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interesting in purchacing an RB26DETT complete engine/loom/ECU preferably with turbo's manifolds & plenium. preferably better turbo's than standard thanks Berin

Item: Nissan R33 gts-t series 1 1994 Location: Geelong, Victoria Item Condition: excellent Reason for Selling: upgrade plan Price and Payment Conditions: $20,000 firm, no RWC, reg till aug/06 Extra Info: Nissan R33 series 1 gts-t (1994) White RB25DET 82,000kms 5 speed manual Jim Berry brass button clutch (installed last weekend) Blitz SS air filter HKS FMIC Hi-Flow turbo Nismo 840cc injectors Malpassi adj fuel reg Nippon Denso performane fuel pump Microtech lts-12 ECU & handcontroller (comes with stock ECU also) Blitz spec S electronic boost controller Full turbo back aftermarket exhaust system Cusco strut brace nismo clear side indicators Full bodykit *veilside rear bar, 400R sides, frontbar (to be decided), type M wing *(wont include frontbar & carbon bonnet/mirrors) 17" rims (235/45/r17 bridgestone 70% rubber) braided brake lines Bendix advance brake pads blue painted calipers lowered tinted windows alarm/imobiliser (keyless entry) full earthing kit El Dials cluster (white during day an choice of green/blue at night) Rockford Fosgate head unit, earthquake front 6" splits interior is stock & excelent condition Car has always been meticulously maintained (service every 6 months) few marks in paint (few stone chips in std bonnet one key scratch on rear 1/4 panel....bastards) - no panel damage last time up on a dyno made 248kw (@melb autosalon) on 18psi mainly driven on 12psi never been draging (calder etc..) or done trackwork has been my 4 year project but something I want has come up, has always been well treated, always garaged, I'm first Ausralian owner. there may be other stuff i've missed. Am looking to sell this relitively quickly....but not for a cheaper price comes with standard VIC plates for more photo's...see my gallery in members section (no longer has the GT wing) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...e/2/ppuser/7879 Contact Details: Berin Connell 0417 546 384 [email protected]

any idea on pastage to 3215 in Victoria?

What sort of brake pads are people using? Anyone used the Bendix Ultimate pads before? or Ferodo Formula pads?

definatly get the flywheel machined....usually around $30-$40 to get done. an yes I had to adjust the clutch pedal once my new clutch was in, not always the case though, you night be lucky? i'd offer to help.....but i've done 2 on the ground now, an never again!!! only ever touching mine when needed from now on, an taking it into work and doing it on a hoist!! if everything goes well its not too bad I guess, just keep at it and you'll be right.... once again....good luck

i think i'll look into anchoring the shoulder straps to the rear parcel shelf, would be a much better angle.

I just finished putting a new clutch in my 33 last weekend. I did it on the ground with 2 mates. Yes! the gearbox is damn heavy! and clearnances are very tight trying to get the box back in, main problem is the startermotor bit on the bell housing hits the floorplan/tunnel. Hope you've got strong arms, cause you'll be pushing the gearbox around a fair bit. at least you have a hoist, that'll make it easier, an tranny jack would make life even easier again! my main advice....dont use grease, use graphite powder (grease an clutch plate where you want grip, generally dont mix) on the splines (only small amount of grease where the fork pivots an slave cylinder pivots). and most importantly. be 100% sure the clutch is perfectly lined up! good luck guys Berin

will they be ok with my standard seat?

put me down for a Black MotorQuality 4 point harness! might be a stupid question, but do they come with a "how to install" guide, want to know where its best to anchor them from? ie/ the rear parcel shelf?

so how many SAU members will be attending? I might, depending if i can find a car to tow my car up there on a trailer that is. I'm guessing this is an open to anyone event.....not SAU members only? any idea when it usually wraps up?

there's a cost I wasnt expecting,....if it has to be it has to be..... but since i wont be competeting in the first round, i have a biot more time up my sleeve. But i'll see you all at calder as an onlooker.

so there to suit 300mm rotors...is that both front & rear??? Any idea what rotor size on an R33 gts-t is?

i'd love to come an try my line out down the 1/4....but currently waiting for my new clutch from Jim Berry, so my car no go. Good luck Pete...let us know how it goes

Cool. I'll bring some cash along to the Calder track day an get my CAMS licence part all done!!

can you apply and pay for a cams licence on the day? & is it driver only on the track, or can you take a passanger for a quick lap?

dont really have a choice with the semi-comps situation, cant afford em for a while anyway, so just the street treads for a few rounds. does it cost aything to enter as a spectator? Might try to come an watch until 4-5pm or so.

DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN I just learnt that one of my good mates 21st in on the same night as Calder Park....BUGGER!! Guess i'll be missing round number 1:(. I'm aware that it's more about having a fun day at the track than serious track positions (times) and that every track is different an neads to be learnt etc.... I dont want to crash my car more than you dont want to see me crash it . Thanks for the freindly advise Blind Elk.....It's what I would have done even if it wasnt mentioned. I am a mechanic by trade...so am well aware of the difference on the car track vs street driving does, an have been to many track days, just not driven at them. I'll be there to have a good time an yes...learn more about myself as a driver, how my car behaves, an how to become faster.....whilst being as SAFE AS POSSIBLE!! shattered i can make it to round one , more prep time for round two at the Majical Island!!!

need a pair 235/45/R17 and a pair of 255/40/R17 semi-comp rubber for use in a club championship. looking for decent second hand or on the cheaper side new ones Cheers Berin

he's talking about the actual clutch disc. The bit with the friction material stuff on it that press's onto the flywheel.

Wow...first round is nearing fast, best I download an apply for the L2NS/L2S licence fast. Might have to have a stab at the first few rounds with the old B/stone RE030 road treads unfortunatly, but i'm sure it'll be great fun!! This will be the first time i've ever tracked a car (had a go at phillip island on an Yamaha R1 on slicks), so dont think i'll be hell fast, but i'll be having a hell good time!!! round 1 at Calder Park...is there more info on that? what time you have to be there, when it goes till, is there a social get together afterwards?