ferni

My cooler sits in the front passenger side, where the stock intercooler for R33 GTST's sits. 16row HKS cooler with the thermostate and all that. I have the black plastic vented bit from a gtst put in the wheel well so that air can flow through. 90 degrees on the track? thats nuts, don't know anyone who gets 90 degrees on the track.

GTT is the R34 Version of R33 GTSt. R33 shape is like scottsman R34 shape is like snowmans haha no it doesn't really matter about the T in gtst i guess, its just a GTS Turbo.

Anthony Snelling A SKYLINE GTSt Mark Pether A (not sure sorry) Denham Melder A SKYLINE GTSt Steven Walton A GTSt Chris Tompson A GTR Andrew Richmond A GTR

Yep, you have to remember a GTR is a performance car, people don't buy them to put around under 3,000rpm, people buy them to drive fast, and have fun as with any sports car. Since your new to imports - don't belive any km readings, 99% of them are wound back, look at wear all over the car. Get a compression and leak down test done on the engine, and get it checked out by someone who knows GTR's back to front.

Buy private, not a dealer. Non turbo GTS i'd look for a series2 if you can find one, should be able to get one for 13-15k? Don't pay any attention to km's on the clock, 99% of imports are wound back, pat attention to the condition of the car, seats, steering wheel, gearstick/handbrake leather, pedals etc.. and how well it has been maintained.

It opens/closes a vent that goes to/from face i think. So if you removed it it would probably get stuck on face or not on face.... can't remember exactly. Its only $150 for a new one to fix it, don't know why you wouldn't replace it if you were going to pull the dash out

Common prob on R33's not sure about R32s. Its an actuator/motor on top of the heater box. Little black box. You can get them from nissan for around $150-160. Involves taking whole dash out.

Might help if you list which model, R32? R33? R34? They are all very different.

Yep thats the one Paul. Just couldn't remember what it was called. Interested in being able to download my tune for backup etc.. and datalogging but I think $500 is a bit rich.

Whats the latest with that Logit FC software (or whatever its called)

Damn, looks like there was some nice (and clean) cars there. Wish i could of been there with purple Ferni. Next year for sure. Bigger and better

Hi SK, Sorry your right its meant to say ID not OD. I used your spanner trick, the 12mm wouldn't fit on, and the 13mm fit on too easy, with a bit of gap, so i guessed 12.5mm. If it is 300lb per inch, how does that compare to what you recommend for an R33 GTR daily driven, but trackeda few times a year.

What differnce does a 'built' engine make? forged pistons, upgraded oil pump and all that, thats more for saftey... I think most of the performance mods tommy and williamsf1 are on par, cams, turbos, inj etc... just different choices.

Call racebrakes and they will express post to you.

This is roughly my fronts - hard to do with them on the car. Not sure if its right Coil OD = 70mm Bottom /95mm Top Wire OD = 12.5 mm # of Coils = 7.25 turns Not sure about the Coil OD, i used string to go around the circumference(outside) then measured the string, then used: Diam = Circum / pi to get the diam of the outside, then minus 25mm (2 x wire OD).

WilliamsF1: considering this post, i'd assume actuator pressure is about 0.9-1bar? So sounds like tommy may be making 1Bar around 4,000rpm, not 3,000 like you?

Not unless you have a piston i can borrow?

You may want to fix your link up in your orig post. Also this image is missing in your PowerFC FAQ: http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...ace-maxload.jpg

Tommy: what rpm are you hitting full boost in 4th now?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=79157&hl= for some reason your link to that thread didn't work.

awesome, as always

And all WRX's are STI's aren't they?

J-Boy: I drive the car daily and the ride is fine, i have the damper settings(or is it rebound?) on about medium. If you tighten them right up you feel every stone/bump, on soft they aren't bad, i just left them on medium. I was told they are worth around 5k when i bought the car (with them in) but who knows. SK: Yeah both front and rear have the circlip adjustments. I can't imagine my springs being that hard, and to be honest i've been to lazy to look at my springs to check against your thread to see what rate they are. Can i do it by just taking off the wheel without removing the spring/shock? Because i really should do it. So the black knob you can see in the photo - is that for dampening or rebound? And the allen key on the top of my fronts? whats that for?

You recon? You need to come to melbourne then Just ask Roy, he should know he's been all over.

Top? i dunno never had a look didn't know it would have a setting on top of the rears, i assumed the black knob was the only adjustment? The fronts are hard to get a photo off without taking the wheel off - but they look the same except no black knob. same circlip adjustable hight, with an alen key under the bonnet on tops of the shocks. Do you want more info or photos? DO you think i'll have an adjustment under my parcel shelf on top of the rears? i've tried to get my parcel shelf out before but it was way hard so i gave up (aftermarket parcel shelf).