sleptema

The only problem with running those sorts of widths on the fronts on a gtt is the lack of guard. I had 9.5+22, and I had to remove the front liners for scrapage problems - and they sat completely flush with the guards. Now the issue here is, with a wider tyre, and non mexican spec, you will need a large offset, which you can't do as it will eat your suspension. I can't remember how much clearance I had with mine on, but I don't think there is much room for movement. To get 10.5 to fit up front you will need something like +10 offset, 245/40 or less tyres, pumping guards, big camber, etc. Cause it will look mexican as fark with no camber. Rears are 10.5+22 with natural camber and they sit nicely on the guard.

Guessing there is supporsed to be a rpm number here.

The ecu fixed itself - it learned what the problem was and it was happy. Then you reset it. Now it is sad again. Needs more hugs.

I learned something today.

AAC?

With a thread as bad as that, I wouldn't bother.

Rb25dets have variable cam timing?

Lets look at this logically for a second. We have ruled out spark - new coils and plugs mean it cannot be them. I wouldn't go so far as to say fuel could be the issue, as it is not at high RPM range. Maybe the AFM? I would say it is a tune/ecm related issue. I'm not sure how AI based the computer is - I mean does it change the tune depending on how the motor is running? I only say this because I had a friend who dropped a 25neo into his 32, it ran like crap for a week - spluttering, maxing boost at 4psi, etc. As it was his only car he kept driving it. Then one day something just clicked - boom - perfect tune and 12psi. What I am getting at is maybe because you were running f**ked coils and plug for a while, the computer has compensated and is now giving you this flat spot - maybe running rich/lean. I'm not saying run it and see, but maybe hooking a computer up to the ECM may yield some results, and may just need a flash.

That will sit inside the guards, and I hope like hell it'll clear your suspension on the rears. Sitting a fair more inset then stock, why not just go 18 x 9 + 30 all round, and get spacers if need be?

No price?

This thread is made of win.

If you are worried you could always machine and polish the intake?

Let's resurrect all the old threads.

So you replaced the sensors with the original 32 sensors? I am not sure if it has it, but some cars have oxygen sensors before/on the cat which alters the AFR depending on the amount of exygen in the exhaust. I don't feel this is the issue, but it is an option to explore. I am not too savvy with engine swaps, but I would have thought you should be using a r33 ECU if you are running a r33 engine. If the plugs aren't the same you may need to repin the ECU but that is fairly straightforward.

I broke my boost sensor (accidentally) off. Never noticed a difference ever. Was trying to figure out why for a long time haha. No. The boost sensor on the firewall (the ECU's sensor, not the gauge sensor) doesn't act until much higher boost levels. For example, when I was first tuning my boost controller (on this Neo engine) I had a problem with the pressure regulator I was using. It was basically jammed shut. So I had zero boost control. I saw 1.2bar a couple of times before working out what the problem was. In lower gears it would do this happily, with no savage boost cut type things going on. But if I tried it in 4th gear, the boost would shoot up there and there'd be a fairly savage cut. Once I got the regulator working properly I tried it a couple of times at nearly 1 bar and there was no savage cut (although I do get some R&R behaviour evident at high loads, that's a separate issue). The message here is that the boost sensor not only isn't used to set your boost level, it isn't actually used for anything very much at all. I have a suspicion that it might play a part in determining whether to fuel off the fuel map or the VE map, but that's a separate issue again.

Sorry, I wasn't aware of that wire. Disregard me then.

Maybe cam or crank angle sensor? My vy did the same thing, only the engine stopped completely and I had to restart the car. No noise, no splutter - just died. Turned out to be the distribution module underneath the coilpacks, which got the signal from the crank angle.

Alternator should provide all the voltage needed while car is running. Technically you could remove a battery once the car is started and not notice anything.

Unlikely but rooted vacuum line to the actuator? I had a mate melt a plastic 3 way connector, overboosted so much his manifolds glowed red hot.

So was it just a certain point in the power band or it just wouldn't accellerate at all ever? Or would it drive normally if you babyed it, and only 'died' when you tried to rev it a bit?

I see. I know I don't have the best of knowledge in these situations, but the theory I was going with was fairly right yeah?

Pretty hard to tell without an accurate description... But yes it sounds like your coilpacks. If they are still OEM and done over 100k kms, with a little bit of moisture they tend to f**k out. When mine went, I had just washed my car, drove fine until I tried to give it shit, then it felt almost like boost cut, no power at all. If it was doing it all the time, check your fuel pump/filter. Maybe you were starving it of fuel.

It almost sounds like you are missing a sensor somewhere or a sensor is broken to do with temps - coolant, ambient air.. Or even the oxygen sensor near the cat. My knowledge on early rb26's isn't the best.. Are you using original R32 ECU?

Had 225's on my 9.5s, perfect amount of stretch for a streeter going for stanced/aggressive look, but awful in the way of grip/handling/comfort. 265 will bulge slightly, assuming you are running 9.5's all round, 265s on the rear, 245s up front IMO. Feel free to disagree but on the rears you want grip for launch and power to wheels, fronts you need to be able to steer - where I believe 265's will be too large and only hinder turning capabilities.

Laughed way too loud in the office at this.