sleptema

They are standard r34 rims. 5x114.3 17x7.5+35 (or 38?)

I can't speak about a 32gtr, but I do have an opinion on dailying a skyline, especially with work done. I had my first 34GTT when I was 18. Loved the car, always wanted one - freshly imported from Japan, stock as the day it came from the factory. Maintenance wise - had absolutely no issues whatsoever as I regularly had it mechanically checked and serviced etc. But the problem was that after driving it every day, it got used to the power very fast, and the initial appreciation that I had for it wore off. I ended up modifying it because it got boring to drive and burning a massive hole in my pocket. Plus, being a quick car, it was hard to always stick to the limit when you know you have some oomph if you want it. Plus, once I put on some rims and suspension, it was a really rough ride, and if you have an exhaust, it is ALWAYS loud. I remember doing night shift and all I wanted to do was sleep but I had to clutch and had the exhaust drone all the way home.. Then it is never clean because it is always out... Then I got rid of it, because [a] i didn't really care for it because of the whole dailying situation and i was a stupid teenager and thought money grew on trees. I bought another r34 earlier this year, after getting my money situation in order and getting a reliable daily. So now I only really drive it on weekends, and the occasional day to work if it isn't going to rain. I keep it under a car cover so it stays clean all the time, and my shitty daily makes the power fun when you jump in it. That being said, when I bought it, I drove it every day for a fortnight, because turbo. Obviously everyone is different, some people can live with dailying their cars, but I honestly love having a 'weekend car' that is good for a blat every now and then. EDIT: Plus the cops. OMG the cops. So much unwanted attention when you are just trying to get to and from work. tl:dr - weekend the bitch.

You've asked for advice, he's given it to you, and you're ignoring it. Test for leaks.

Oh if only it was that easy! People would rather post asking questions, then trawl through masses of free information at their disposal.

Get a scan tool on it, see what fault codes are coming up. Just stabbing in the dark right now. Could be a blown fuse - so it is a warning to say it is gone. Ign on, every light on your dash should illuminate.

IMO this should really be (for ease for everyone who is doing this): Car: Dark green - unswitched power (battery) Car: Orange with black strip - switched power (ignition) Car: Red with blue strip (in image below its yellow.. used to extend it) - illumination (so when your dash lights come on, the screen dims so it doesn't glare at night) Car: Grey with blue strip - remote (or antenna?) Car: Orange - rear right speaker + Car: Black with pink strip - rear right speaker - Car: Pale green - rear left speaker + Car: Black with yellow strip - rear left speaker - Car: Brown - right front speaker + Car: Brown with white strip - right front speaker - Car: Blue with white strip - left front speaker + Car: Blue with yellow strip - left front speaker - For the earth you can just put a ring terminal under the bolt on the panel holding the gear shift boot. Easy to access.

I've had 2 black r34s and they are honestly the best looking, behind midnight purple. But they are also the hardest to keep clean, and any imperfections show up 2/3x more than in white. The biggest thing for me is the rain, as it can water stain, then dust sticks to it and makes it look awful and lose its' shine. I have found keeping it well waxed so the water beads, and keeping it under a car cover (obviously not easy if it is a daily, but I have only done 1.5k kms in 6 months) helps a lot. Honestly, I don't think I would go another colour just because 'it's easier to keep clean' but I am an enthusiast and will do anything to keep it looking nice for my rare weekend blat. If it was my daily - I have a white car and I haven't washed it in a year I reckon and it looks cleaner than a black car does after a week.

As above - an air pocket will cause your coolant temp sensor to read high.

Would be hitting up the installer of the boost gauge for towing costs IMO. That is pretty piss poor.

http://www.willtheyfit.com/ Input new and old sizes, it'll tell you the speedo difference at 60mph/100kmph. Some cars have a potentiometre in the dash you can change the speedo calibration.

Was actually curious about this, and excuse the question, but why are ITBs better than a single? They act in the same way - via a wire.. Why are they better? Just more control of the air or something?

Interesting shit.

Wasn't sure where the speedo got it's signal from, now I do. Cheers

FS: rb30 block from a patrol, 180k kms. (see pics/below for condition) -$400 r33 rb25det stock intake manifold (overhead plenum, runners, throttle body) - $50 r33 rb25det stock injectors and fuel rail - $50 r33 rb25det stock exh manifold, small crack, suit repairs - $10 All prices are negotiable. Block is good condition, but could use a clean. Comes with pulleys, sump, flywheel, etc. Great for 25/30 conversion - could easily be used without ripping apart. Was going to use in said conversion but decided to stick with my neo for a while longer as I am not chasing ridiculous power figures.

Looks like you found your issue! A short in the armature would certainly make it hard to crank

I wasn't sure about clogging this post up with dreamy messages but seeing as though it looks like it is going to ... Mate - wow. This thing is beautiful. I actually think this is TOO nice of a car because if I bought it, I wouldn't want to ruin the mint condition it is in by driving it. This is one amazing car. Best of luck finding an owner who will take care of it.

And the ECU gets is signal from the CAS. The speedo gets its signal from the WSS yes, the ECU doesn't read the speedo, the gauge is an output from other sensors. Sensor (input) -> ECU (processer) -> Actuator (output - in this case, gauge) I'm saying the tacho and speedo are more than likely related, but the tacho/speedo combo isn't related to the door locks as they are on completely different circuits.

^This And when the melted bits of copper try to contact with each other, because the contacts are now melted and awful, it creates resistance and inadvertently - volt drop. That's why I asked for the volt drop test, as this will show if the solenoid contacts are shot.

I don't think they can be related, or he would be having issues with the entire car, not just those 3-4 things. I believe the tacho and speedo gain their signals from the Engine computer, where the door lock and chime is body control computer. Tacho gets its feed from the CAS, which can in no way be related to the door locks. And if it was the ECU, I doubt the car would be running smoothly. I don't want to jump to ecu replacement when it is most likely small shit,

Tacho + speedo: Take out the dash, check for lose plugs. Interior light and bell chime for door could be linked (as i'm guessing with the switch on "DOOR" it stays on?, but "OFF" it turns off?) Guessing it is the switch inside the door playing up. Where that little rubber piece is. Passenger door: Does it lock when you flick the door lock internally, like the actual switch? Does it unlock with the controls on the passenger door?

There is certainly a possibility of the starter needing an overhaul, an internal short will make it draw excessively from the battery. What you need to know is that once the battery voltage drops below 9-8V, it is very unlikely your car will start as the coils won't be able to spark properly, the computer may shut off or not be able to interpret readings from sensors and what not. The issue could be a number of things, and you will basically have to eliminate them. What I can think of: Battery: Check for 12.6v with car off. If it is less than 12.0v, you need to place it on charge. Put in on low amps for 2 hours, disconnect, wait 5 minutes, and see if it is holding 12.6v. If it isn't, your battery is on its way out or cactus. When you are cranking (has to be cranking or key in start [so even if it isn't cranking, it is attempting to]), get your multimetre on battery, check voltage. ON the battery posts, not on the lugs or on the wires, ON the post. Then, check it at the starter, on the positive motor wire and earth lead or housing of the starter. The difference between these 2 values is volt drop across terminals/cabling/connections/etc. So if your battery is 10.1v, and the starter is 9.1v, somewhere between both you are losing 1 volt. Factory standards allow .5v volt drop, but realistically there should be much much less. If there is a volt drop post here and I will assist you in finding it. The *crank* *compression lock* *crank* sounds like an old dying battery to me. Open up the caps on the battery and check the fluid levels inside. Careful, it's corrosive. Just make sure the fluid is translucent and covering all the plates. When you are jumping, make sure both cars are off when you put the jumper leads on, follow dead battery -, good battery -, good battery +, bad battery positive. Leave for a minute to let the charge level out, start your pathfinder, let it idle for a minute to charge the bad battery, and read the bad battery with a voltmetre and see if it is receiving the charge from the pathfinder (say 13.5v at low idle). If your leads aren't heavy duty, watch out for the cables getting hot. I would also check for all the earthing cables intact. Battery > chassis, chassis > engine block, etc. Make sure they are all clean unpainted surfaces, and no green death/corrosion. The solenoid clicking in and out (machine gunning) is text book dying battery. As the solenoid kicks in, it engages the starter, drawing current, and dropping voltage, making the solenoid click out, and as soon as it is out, battery voltage raises and the cycle repeats. Go forth my son, and test, test away! Hope I helped.

The attitude on this kid.

Hasn't happened since. But I will remember that Dan, cheers.

Exam > wheel offsets. You have gone this long without needing them. Just read the thread - there is more than enough information there to choose the offsets you want.

Yeah I have a feeling they are only like straight lines. Being a passenger vehicle, they have a fair bit of body roll with the shitty suspension and I don't think the brakes are anywhere near track spec. But I guess if you put the money into them they would be machines - as is the case with most cars though haha. At the end of the day, they are Australian, so they are never going to be that great.