sleptema

Yay for updates. So I got the throttle body, fuel rail and (better) freddy for christmas. HICAS elimination went in a treat - back end is very whippy on demand. I have been told by my better half that I have 3 months to do whatever I want to my car, once we have enough deposit for a home loan. Mint as! Will put all above mods on, and retune with the PFC at the beginning. Then I will try source a rb30 and build that up with a haltech or link. Bigger brakes and a some body mods (front lip, skirts and rear pods) may also be on the cards. Depending how much I can fit into and pay for in 3 months haha. Should be interesting! Still have a few months yet until we get the full deposit together so.. Watch this space.. Soon.

There is a guy running 760hp on the stock bottom end of a neo here in WA. If it is timed/tuned and maintained properly, your 450 will be fine. I think what they are referring to about "free flowing" is the intake and exhaust. You will need a decent intake pod filter and a hi flow exhaust to make sure it can breathe because I believe the hx35 flow around the same as the gt35. You will need to upgrade your fuel pump as well.

Just curious as to why someone would gas up without doing the proper checks for leaks w/ nitrogen. Comes across as someone hasn't done the training and acquired the license. I know of a lot of mechanics who just regas without checking the system for leaks, annoys me to no end. If this isn't the case, disregard me.

First off, no one should be regassing without a license. Secondly - if it has no gas, it means it leaked out. Do it properly - pressure test and vac(fix the leaks), add oil and dye, then regas.

Oh and I didn't mention (but remembering now), Your really should put a fuse in line to the feed to Jblock/starter. And make it big. Like ~200A. If you are going to have a few metres of battery wire running in your vehicle, you are most certainly going to need to protect it. If that shorts your car will go up in flames.

I am running these tyres on my skyline. For the price I paid (which was cheap) they are really really good value. I had 265s on previously, didn't take notice of the brand, but they would make me powerskid 1-2-3, switched to ATR sports 245s (different rim) and now grips 2nd. I think I paid $80 a tyre fitted and balanced and for that cost I couldn't go wrong. 91W I believe.

Assuming it doesn't need to split off anywhere, that should be fine. I've seen plenty of engines hooked up that way. If in doubt though, you can get a insulated block and mount it in the bay somewhere, run the pos to that and 2 more to fuse and starter.

I believe the difference between s2 and neo turbos are the material in which they are made, the s2 being made of ceramic where neo is steel. But if you were going to find an answer, it will be here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

What would be the advantage of a system like this? So you are switching from a cam sensor to a crank sensor?

Hnngg.

That's fairly specific.

I don't particularly like the phrase "jizzed my pants", but holy hell Terry! I think I just got a semi from your cars.

Christmas eve LELs

This ^ guy made me some adapter plates. PM me if you want me to send you one, as I still have a few left over. It is just a plate that allows you to bolt your r34 aacv to the 33 mounts.

Where did you get the skirts and pods from mate? Looks great.

Overboosting? Wastegate not opening far enough?

I have heard of PFC's resetting themselves. So if it has, and is running extra boost (through boost tee or different actuator) it will try compensate and that's where your issues lie. Or yes, someone could have easily messed with the hand controller. Honestly I would be doing this sooner than later. And if you have a daily, I would be driving that. The last thing you want is engine failure or damage due to something so small and relatively cheap to repair.

I would go get a proper tune for a start. No tuner in their right mind would/should tune above 90% injector duty. Go larger injectors, get a better fuel pump, go for a z32 or q45 afm, get an EBC and decent tune.

Thanks for all the love guys . Wheels are Rota p45r2 18x9.5+20, 225/40 fronts, 245/40 rears. -2 deg camber fronts, and -0.5 deg rear. Rolled guards. No scrubbing issues. But I have all adjustable arms to eliminate it if there was.

Complete shot in the dark, but did/do you know someone called Micheal Tran?

Basically, the lower the offset (the +18 part), the FURTHER out the rim will sit. So if we compare 9.5+30 and 9.5+10, the +10 will sit 20mm closer to the guard than the +30. And just to confuse you, this number is dependent on the width of the wheel - so 9.5+22 is the same as 10.5+34 (as you are adding an inch of width, the offset is 12mm higher because 1 inch = 12.7mm) Use this website - willtheyfit.com to chose the offset right for you. There is plenty of information on that thread, you are not looking hard enough.

There is a huge thread dedicated to offsets for skylines here - http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/ But in short, the 10+15 will be too wide unless you plan on aggressively flaring your guards. The 9.5+18 will still be very aggressive, but if you want to give up some function for form, camber will make them fit. I have 9.5+20 with around -1.5deg camber on the fronts and they still poke around 10mm.

Ooh she nice and clean

245/40 r18

That is 10.5+30 on r34 gtt. I am led to believe that 33 and 33 are the same offsets. Correct me if I am wrong. That is just a guard roll and natural camber when lowering.