sleptema

What manifold would you rate in that case for rb25det?

Power fc suit rb25det neo manual, no hand controller - $800 firm D1 stable rb25 t4 split pulse exhaust manifold with 2 bolt flange for external gate, new - $500 rb25det (s2 i believe) blue silicone coolant hoses, should be direct fit, new - $100 Adjustable camber arms front (brand - tasautosport), did 1000kms on the car, only removed for upgrade - $100 Adjustable camber arms rear (brand - tasautosport), did 1000kms on the car, only removed for upgrade - $100 Rear hicas elimination kit/drag rod kit (brand - tasautosport), did 1000kms on the car, only removed for upgrade, completely removes hicas - $100 Q45 afm, was working when removed, has plug and wires - $150 R34 coupe boot (gv1), avg condition, suit drift pig - $20 R34 stock suspension, good condition, boots a little worn - $200 R34 front stock suspension, good cond, - $100 R34 HICAS system, working when removed - $100 R34 stock front and rear camber arms - $100 2 x 17x7.5 territory stockies, hold air fine, could use paint, tyres chopped - $50 rb25det s2/neo adjustable cam ring gear (adjust intake cam gear few degrees whilst retaining VCT, good for dialing in cams or rb30det), new, 5 left, comes with mounting hardware - $50 Some prices neg, if you want pics just ask. Will post at buyers expense. Pickup Willetton (SOTR). Text if you want - o4o4 three98 four19

You'll have to let me eye off the CRG when you get it Josh. Would love to see what else is out there.

Dropped the car off at the mechanics again before I fly out. Hopefully will be getting all the work done this time around. Hopefully I can have everything in and tuned before I am back. Will see. Stay tuned for updates Also bought a GTR style wing, currently at the paint shop.

Yeah mate you've been had. My 6boost is lovely like HarrisRacings'. Hope you didn't pay more than $50 for it.

I think a huge advantage of running that size turbo would be the fact that you could hang it off the standard manifold to retain the stock look. I think I even had my original heat shield bolted on my 3076r. Unless you specifically wanted a high mount mani for some reason.

Surge tank hasn't showed up, so no real engine work has been done. Front has been raised a touch, all new arms are in, rear dif and subframe bushes done. Car will be getting all above work done, plus a koyo 48mm rad, new hoses and thermostat when I fly back out. And speedflow everything. Also got quoted $5500 for evo brembos all round, with evo 10 slotted rotors, bm57 master and braided lines. Currently after competitive quotes. My nismo cluster and floor mats arrived. That odo reading hnnngg.

Go the 8.5+30. Shouldn't have any issues at all at stock height. Won't be an aggressive fitment at all though. Would be very stock looking.

I haven't had great success with cruise clubs here, but I have never been out with SAUWA. Every cruise I have been on has just been a bunch of idiots drawing unnecessary attention to themselves and the import community by doing stupid shit that generally involves smoking tyres & loss of traction. There is an exotic club that regularly does more tame cruises, but I think you need a fairly high price machine, few worked 34Rs (like the infamous 1000bhp Goldfinger, and Kris Hattons WAR 34R) join in. Coconut photography rings a bell.

Dropped the car off at the mechanics before I fly back out to site. They will be doing: Cusco arms all round + wheel allignment Hardrace rear subframe bushes Aluminium radiator (if it arrives while I am gone) Surge tank Wideband o2 IAT Boost control solenoid Ethanol content sensor Took it to the track on Sunday, got a couple nice photos. Car got hot, fast. So mechanic will investigate why it got so hot, but he said it's more than likely my radiator. So probably putting a better one on.

Ah yeah. Disregard my previous posts then. Obviously VZ is 2008ish so newer ecu. Cheers for the feedback though.

Just repeating what a lecturer taught me.

An ecu will "self tune" to a point, using the sensors the vehicle has. It will be loaded with a base tune, and if the ecu thinks it can get more power, or it can improve the efficiency of the engine, it will tune itself. Removing the battery resets it to the standard factory tune, and it will self learn again, eventually. It's not often noticeable, but if old mate had something seriously wrong, the self tune could have masked it. I had a mate with a vz ss, who said his car was down on power and the idle wasn't as "lumpy" as he remembered it to be. We let the ecu reset by removing the battery and she all came sweet. Back to angry LS idle.

Plastidip is 100% a mod.

I dare say the exhaust of a turbo model would be slightly different to an N/A... The manifolds at the very least.

Sounds like you've reset the tune by removing your battery. Keep driving it, it'll sort itself eventually.

My ecu has fuel pump speed control, I will just run 1 on my current tune until I need the second with the 3L. I would rather have too much than not enough. Would hate to get it on the expensive dyno and find it won't make the power because of something as small as a fuel pump.

My power goal for my 25/30 is 650rwhp. I would rather have too much fuel than get it on the dyno and find out I don't have enough fuel. Obviously I don't think I'll get much more than 500rwhp with my current turbo and cam setup, so this will be total overkill. I have never had or even been in a car running serious power through e85, so I am super keen to get this tune done!

Purchased a SP800 last night with twin walbro 460s and a turbosmart FPR2000. It has the ability to be upgraded to 3 pumps if I wanted to increase my power goal. Contacted AI and the owner gave me a little discount so I went ahead with the purchase. Couple emails that sealed the deal for me: :"Its proven, and the best engineered product we have ever created. Alex Rodriguez also used it for the full season last year for Redline Time Attack in the US in the RX7 (still installed). He came 2nd overall in the unlimited open class over 5-6 races." -"The SP800, with 3x pumps installed, is the kit that helped the Motorsport Mechanical R33 GTR take out Nulon Nationals in 2015 with a 9.3s pass; can has 640kw atw (e85)." I am confident I have made the correct choice. Also, the dominator tank has a 2 month wait, where the SP800 is only 2 weeks.

Go there at night with a sledgie and make that bump your bitch.

Bought a DW300 intank pump to use as a lift pump.... And bought an Aftermarket Industries SP800 surge tank with twin Walbro 460 pumps and a turbosmart FPR2000. E85 here I come Also sent an email off to Link about getting an expansion harness with a flex fuel sensor, intake air temp sensor, wideband o2 and boost control solenoid. Also priced up cusco front and rear camber arms and rear drag arms. Will be ordering them this week once Nengun get back to me. Also some hardrace rear subframe bushes. Also a nismo 300kmph cluster. Also had a good look for a big brake upgrade. At this stage I am leaning towards ATTKD. I know they aren't the best or highest quality option out there, but it would still make for a good upgrade in braking performance. But at $4300 (fronts and rears) it will be a couple months before I will be able to afford them anyway so I will do a little more research before committing.

Oh and, look what I found... http://www.aftermarketindustries.com.au/surge-tank-kits--accessories-c1/surge-tank-kit-spr1800-s-p179/ Looks like I have my setup. If your confused about the photo/youtube link, they have the pictures mixed up with the twin 044 setup.

Just had a look on Links website. It seems they have a bunch of sensors that I/my tuner says I require including the ethanol content sensor, TPS and boost control solenoid. I think I'll be grabbing all of them with an expansion harness for extra inputs. Should I also invest in an intake temp sensor and wideband while I am at it? Will email and get some prices hopefully after the weekend. Is there anything else I am missing?

I have a Link g4+. I have thought about a flex fuel setup; is it worth the extra upfront cost of parts and tuning for the advantage of reliability? The other added advantage is that there is a 98 pump 200m from my house, where the closest e85 pump is 20-30 minutes away. I will take a better look into this now. Ok, so 044 is out. I will research some better options. I'll look at the Holley dominator now, thanks Piggaz. I am guessing through the lack of response about the other questions, they mean that my tank is fine to run e85 without anodizing, and the pump/flow setup will be sufficient?

I am currently in the process of pricing up and converting my car to e85, and with so many rumours, myths and misinformation I just wanted to get a few things straightened out before I go ahead and fully convert to e85. My current build: I am unsure of the brand of my intank pump, but I am making 450rwhp on pump 98. 1000cc ev14 injectors, turbosmart 1200 fpr. Short term goals: After conversion to e85, aiming for 500rwhp. Long term goals: Building up a 25/30 with a power goal of 650rwhp on e85. What I am thinking of running: Using my intank pump as a lift pump, feeding a surge tank (2-3L), then twin bosch 044 pumps feeding my rail through a -8an line. Using something along the lines of ( http://www.aftermarketindustries.com.au/surge-tank-kits--accessories-c1/surge-tank-kit-spr044-p241/) as the tank/pump setup. Obviously I will be getting new lines made up with speedflow fittings. My questions are: (sorry, some may sound stupid. I may have the correct answers, but due to misinformation from many sources I would like to be sure) Can I use my standard fuel tank, or does it need to be anodized? I have heard bosch 044 pumps hate e85 and break down after 100/500 hours. How true is this? Will the setup I mentioned above be enough to support my power goal and flow requirements? Should I upgrade my lift pump as well? Is the single -8an line going to provide enough flow? Is there anything else I am missing or is required? I work FIFO (fly in fly out, 2 weeks on/1 week off) so I only get the chance to drive my car 1 week out of every 3. So the car spends a lot of time just sitting at home, and when I am home I barely go through a tank of pump 98 (maybe drive 100-200 kms, with the exception being if I have track/skidpan days). Will the fuel go bad if I leave it sitting for too long? Would it be better to fill up before I leave or the day I get back? Cheers for any help fellas!