Dajae

The only real drawback to having a vented bonnet is the fact of water getting to the engine bay, but with thoughtful design consideration, this can be minimized. If you can mould the trailing "lip" in such a way that it makes the outline shape of a plane wing (which basically means an upside wing), then the turbulence created (from the result of restriction of airflow to back inside the engine bay from underneath the car - our sought after "low pressure" zone) can be turned into something extremely useful... Downforce. By having a flat under car arrangement that goes from say, firewall to rear diff, then it would only add to this effect.. This entire under tray would act as one big upside down wing. Because our "lip" extends further down than the body tray (if only by a small margin) this creates a low pressure zone the entire length, because of the blocked air flow. Better still to this setup, having a rear diffuser in addition, shaped much like the front one, would help to keep drawing that air to the rear of the car, where it can join the air stream off the top of the car.. By doing so, we reduce the "wake" of air that is created by the movement of the car. I really cant wait to get my car back on the road! Will be able to put all this theory to good use

It would be more beneficial to have *some* airflow directed to the radiator, so its not getting the pre-heated air from the intercooler. Perhaps a 70/30 split? While i dont think it would kill the cooling capacity to have 100% second hand air through the intercooler, there would definately be improvements in a different setup. I'll try and dig up photos of the do-luck R34 gtr setup.. Seems to have a lot of thought put into it.. Air vents in the front bar ducted straight to the top portion of the rad, with the intercooler dam ducted on the sides. The bonnet had a vent up and exactly back from the top side of the rad, with a air guide plate sitting across the top of the rad to the front of the car. The car also had a diffuser under the front, that tapered downwards towards the rear. In the intake ducts in the front bar, 50% was directed towards both intercooler and rad, the other 50% flowing to brake ducts and oil coolers. This in theory would create a MASSIVE pressure difference across the heat-sink surfaces.. Critical for efficient cooling. The diffuser and vented bonnet would also help to create low pressure zones in the engine bay *behind* the cores. Ty.

Thats all well and great. Kudos to you for making your car the way you want it, building a car is all about doing it YOUR way, to make it individual. However.. If you want to do things the illegal way, good for you. Dont go posting it all over the internet because you make the rest of us (who do it legally) look bad, and quite frankly, like a bunch of dickheads. You might not be a hoon on the road sending the wrong message, but saying shit like that is just as bad. Think before you post please.

Thats awesome for the price. Will have to look into getting one for the gts-t.

Haha yeah thats the one. Sorry couldnt post it for you, got tied up. True.. I dont have the time either.. But i figure that this same theory can be applied "universally" without similar, if not better results. When i get annual leave mid-year, i'll go about doing some real road tests

I wont be back home until later tonight, but i'll post the direct link as soon as i can. Agree 100%.. With our R33's, even though there isnt much in terms of good aftermarket aero modifications, i think JUN have a good universal diffuser that can be fitted without too much hassle. While the stock one is good, there are other little tricks to improve the performance of pressure differentiating.. It will be illustrated better when i get that link for you

Do you have the stock front undercar diffuser in place? There is a great article on http://www.autospeed.com about the subject. Goes indepth about cooling underbonnet temps. Great read as it relates to this. Im at work right now so cant link it straight for you guys, but a quick search on the site should point you in the right direction. Ty.

Again, a lot of this depends largely on the setup and the intent.

I need me a gtr...

Probably the same one i have. Works a treat

+1 Similar way that i spun a bearing. Whilst giving it a spirited run, the fitting that came off the block for the oil cooler and relocator failed.. Causing me to lose a substantial amount of oil.. Even though this is an extreme example of oil starvation, it still gives merit to the importance of oil control and supply. OP, search for "oil control in rb's" .. Will give you good insight to the nature, and resolution, of the problem which you faced.

Then perhaps it was just wear and tear on the engine. 20 year old engine is bound to have some weak spots.. Perhaps just bad luck. But oil starvation is a common problem with RB's.

Just as illegal, yes. I agree with that definately.. I was talking in regards to the effect it has on tune/emission. Agreed, a large portion of people buy because its marketed well. The other portion, know it does have *some* performance benefit.. Depending on the setup, of course. Personally i have one because it decreases "flutter" coming from a system with no BOV. ie; that horrible "zuuuuu tututu" sound you get with most VL turbos. And because of the modification, it doesnt sound stupid either. The flutter i talk about that i have, is actually the sound of the BOV fluctuating in response to the build-up of excess pressure in the intake tract. Personally i dont like extremely loud "pssst" sounds.. Makes driving annoying.

If the oil level is below optimum, then yes.

Damn, sorry to hear mate. Now you have an excuse for forged goodness Ty.

Some people like BOVs, some dont. Some people like bling rims, others dont. Just because you have a distaste towards BOVs, doesnt make this guy a dickhead. OP, try a "dual port" design BOV. I have a Turbosmart dual port, one port is plumbed back, the other vents. I got a restrictor machined into the vented port to lessen the sound. You still get a nice sound (not overly loud, or stupid sounding), and because it recirculates to a degree, the "richness" on gear changes etc, is somewhat lessened. And, if you still have a AFM between filter and turbo, the flutter is there, but sounds low and sexy. Not obnoxious like those "hectik bro's" in their "fully sick" VL's. But, as i said, each to their own. Food for thought Ty.

I experienced the exact same sound about 4 weeks ago. Turns out i spun no.5 bearing. Fairly similar situation too, mine was caused by oil starvation.. Not good. Hopefully you have better luck than i did. Take it to a mechanic, or get one to come to you.. Best of luck mate.

GTX3076R flows a fair chunk more than its little brother. Not only that, but those fancy compressor wheels dont come alive until after 25psi. Saw a video of one push ~500rwhp. I think it was a red or pink S14? I thought afm's didnt like being on the discharge side of things? Ty.

He has a pfc. Why would he step backwards? Tune tidy-up wont cost much Jack-, dont feel like you gotta wait to put 98 in. Raising the octane level any way you can will only help Ty.

.. Going on the assumption that he has a hand controller. Definately a good band-aid fix for now, thats for sure. Dont wait until you're on empty to put 98 in.. Might as well do it now. You might be diluting the 98, but 96.5 (as an example) octane is better than 95. +1 what Duncan said. You might as well get it tuned up anyway. Preventative maintenance is always a good thing. Ty.

From what i know, dead battery doesnt affect settings. Had mine flat for AT LEAST 8 weeks, and when she fired up with new battery, everything seemed to still be the same. From what i know, it saves state the same way a portable USB drive saves data.. Am i right with this folks? Ty.

Your engine is knocking. If its tuned for 98 and you have no other choice but plain old 95, dont push it at all. If you push it you risk detonation damage to your pistons if it happens for too long. Engine light flaahing is the pfc telling you its knocking. Do you have a hand controller? Ty.

370rwkw on an SR20? Nice result Im hoping for something on my 2.8 stroker. Reckon something like that would be do-able on 98 with a WMI setup? Ty.

So to the OP, have fun reading

I lol'd so much at that. People on the train looked at me all weird-like. +1 to DVS