D.I.Y. Mik

i actually have a can of that stuff somewhere, but im not sure, its pretty full on. i may settle for this a patch cleaned with a soft brass brush and autosol

Wheel looks like its from some kind of garden tool, plastic. Trolley jack wheel is what i originally thought would be best, nice and long. The wheel ive got is about 40 50 mm. i need about 100mm. but small diameter. a roller. If you see the pics of bought ones they have a nice roller...... like a trolley jack. Or 2 skateboard wheels together.... hmmm

Wire brush and Autosol Nearly fully clean, only a little stain left. More elbow grease shlould do it. And more soft brass brushes, they dont last long.

Roller wheel is too soft and short. It flexes too much, and more when the heatgun is used. Ill have to find a better wheel.

Yes ill always be a noob racer, but im getting enjoyment from messing with my car. you know what i mean. So 27 f 24 r is a good all round starting point Ok, basically in general front stiffer than rear Right?

i have a set of Volks that need the inside cleaned properly I bought these dirty, so who knows how long it been on there oxidising tried bug and tar remover first, then bowdens wheel cleaner im not keen to use anything too harsh and stain the rim, i dont want acid leaking between the rim and centre(disaster!) This pic is after the bug and tar remover, the bowdens did help a little, but after several applications and scrubbing they are still very stained. What should i try next?

Many wire brushes and polishing things in DIY miks shed The next step in tools will be serious sht like drill press, etc.

Im looking at getting some swaybars for the 32gtst. it is becoming a track car, not a drifter, so i want to buy the right ones. Selby looks good as i can order what i want. However i dont know what to order. Obviously blade adjustable, but what sizes front and rear for a good balance? I know this subject has been covered (yes i searched a lot), but its basic info, for street use, and whiteline are different to selby. I dont know if theres anything else relevant. Silvers neomax suspension, solid cradle bushes(thats another question, change? what to?), hicas gone, adjustable this and that. Thanks.

Instructions say: Hydrochloric acid, reacts vigorously with alloy. No thanks, it might work well, but one little slip up and ill have stains etched into my polished rim. Bowdens is working ok but it wont get the stains out. I realize now that anything strong enough to get those stains off is too dangerous for my liking. Ill have to use a more mechanical solution: Autosol and wire brush might work. And ive had to run a file around the back of two rims, to get the dags and sharp edges off. Yes... taking a hand file to Volks.

I need that good sht that changes colour as it eats the crap off. But it wont harm wheels. Must look again in the shops tomorrow.

Cleaning the Volks, not sure whats safe, so using bug and tar remover. Its safe but not as effective as id like. Scrubbed till my hands numb, still not clean. Its the inside of the rim thats so hard to clean, the rest is ok.

Tried rolling guards, with my DIY tool. The roller part is not up to it, its too short and when the heatgun is applied, it gets soft and flexes. Or the guards are too stiff, yeah thats it i didnt fk up it was nissan.

I have an R32 gtst, and im trying to get more traction from the diff. It tends to spin the inside wheel when pushing hard out of a corner. So does different oil effect how the vlsd works? Or is it this: Viscous LSDs are less efficient than mechanical types, that is, they "lose" some power. In particular, any sustained load which overheats the silicone results in sudden permanent loss of the differential effect.[6] They do have the virtue of failing gracefully, reverting to semi-open differential behavior. Typically a visco-differential that has covered 60,000 miles (97,000 km) or more will be functioning largely as an open differential;[citation needed] this is a known weakness of the original Mazda MX-5 (a.k.a. Miata) sports car. The silicone oil is factory sealed in a separate chamber from the gear oil surrounding the rest of the differential. This is not serviceable; when the differential's behavior deteriorates, the VLSD center must be replaced. Which means: get a new diff centre. Thoughts anyone?

About $780 for the seat. $90 for Sabelt brackets. A bit of a pain to fit as its hard to reach some of the bolts. It depends a bit on your seating position, im fairly tall, over 6 foot 3, and cant fit a helmet on unless the seat is on the floor. If your under 6foot tall, or if you can fit a helmet on in the normal seat, there is a neat solution. I bought these before i realized i wouldnt fit. It bolts to the original seat mounts. From the US so there was a mixup with which side i wanted. Ended up with both. Im going to chop one up and re-do it, so it works for me. The other is for sale. $140

no name brand, nothing special. Even good ones like Rays duralinium cost about $80-$90 Some people overcharge, i saw special locknuts for $300 when they are about $120 from the original maker.

Good idea. Even my 180kw needs more grip, and i thought i had a good suspension setup.

So i guess its time to write a build thread. I bought my R32 GTST a few years ago as an alternative to riding bikes. This is the setup i had for about 10 years before the Skyline. KTM 360 exc 2 stroke Mitsubishi triton ute Then I sold the bike and bought the 32 It was rough as guts, overpriced, and i didnt know anything about Skylines. So i bought it. Oops, oh well time to fix it up. Ive always been into machines and technology, dad was an engineer, and its in the blood. But the last time i was into cars was nearly 20 years ago, so this fuel injection and turbo stuff was all new to me. It ran like crap so i took it to a local backyard mechanic who got it going ok. it had dodgy intercooler pipes, broken headlight mounts, a few dings and dents, 5 stud hubs, manual conversion, rb25 turbo, dodgy suspension bushes, pedders suspension, and a half-assed 3"catback exhaust. There was nothing holding up the front bar but a few cable ties, and no front reo. So i chopped up some scrap alloy and had a guy weld it. This was my intercooler and front bar support. (This is a later pic with the new intercooler and an oil cooler) I knew there were places in Sydney to buy stuff, so i drove the ute up there and got a lockbar, headlights, and intercooler piping kit. The power steering was fked so i took it to pedders, oops, oh well at least it doesent leak as much as it used to. Luckily I was told about SAU when I was at a local workshop that specializes in Skylines, and started learning. Now i was using the internet for more than porn and games, i realized i could buy stuff and get it delivered (doh!) no more trips to sydney to buy parts. I needed a better place to work on it than under a carport, so i built a shed. Diy of course. Anyway, ill cut a long story short and just list all the mods ive done, and learning as i go, some of the mods have changed. Some are in the Diy/Faq thread, and some are in the fabrication thread. And some of the dodgy sht i have found from previous moron owners of this car is incredible. big fmic new kingpin bearings (what a drama! see Diy/faq thread) rb 25 turbo, There when i bought it 3" exh w bell dump, after a jjr stainles split saga/disaster one piece tailshaft, made by Diff Dr podfilter & cold air box strut braces front and rear Neomax adjustable coilovers, early mod, maybe bad choice. adj upper arms front and rear DW tracton rods Hardrace radius rods, DW ones stuffed after 6 months. DW hicas eliminator solid cradle bushes solid steering bush oil catch can Ebay radiator thermo fans Autometer oil, water, fuel/air, boost guages voltmeter volt stabilizer yellow jacket coilpacks stereo, amp and speakers made a new parcel shelf approved child seat strap mount rear view camera sports steering wheel immobiliser engine damper Cheap carbon wrap Exedy heavy duty clutch battery in boot oil cooler and filter relocation w thermostat removed aircon (never could get it going right, and it overheats the engine) Nismo shift knob electric heater (for demisting) GTR front bar w n1 vents Nistune ecu adjustable cam gears new timing belt new water pump rear wiper delete Deatchwerks fuel pump Deatchwerks 650cc injectors Bosch z32 afm Hel braided brake lines tune at Autotech Nismo engine mounts fire extinguisher harness and mounts sparco seat for trackdays new front reo (now i have a welder) tow strap Theres still a few unfinished or dodgy bits that need attention or just tidying up. The ute and bike funded part of that list of stuff, and DIY of course, keeps it cheaper. The things ive had to pay to get done were kept to a minimum: the initial tune/fix up, power steering, suspension arms and stuff fitted and adjusted, a flywheel machine, some bearing pressing, and the fitting and tune of the Nistune ecu. I bought some 17" x 9" +35 Rays Volk GTC wheels for a steal, $600! Now i have to flare the guards to fit them, i dont knpw what tyres yet, ill see how i go with the guard flaring tool i made. Im getting into hillclimbing now, and want to do some trackdays at Wakefield. So the plans for future mods go on. And i must do a paintjob one day.

I have done these on my rb20 and can also help if you want to DIY Cant i ever beat rob to offer help? Legend fella.

The old guy from revell driving , and id say a mid blue, depends what youd say is light. Wheels were, oh, i think machined rim and silvery white centre, expensive looking race type wheels.

Yesterday saw a blue 32GTR. Absolutely beautiful. In Fyshwick at revell steering Surely you guys know this car... its soooo nice.

Got a 32 stock dump and downpipe, and rego muffler. What for? 32? i have arms with shagged bushes, and a box of new mystery bushes. dunno if they are control arm bushes. Pm me for my number

All 20 lock cost me $40, how bout $30?

Give it love on a regular basis. Then it will love you back.

Got sent the wrong locknuts for my volks..... jerks. these are standard style nuts, 60 deg 12x1.25. So who wants to buy a set of 20 locknuts?