D.I.Y. Mik

Mine pops ever since the tune. more fuel i guess. Now ive tightened the exhaust manifold, it pops in the muffler not the downpipe. no oxygen till the muffler now. Anyway rich is safe, dirty but safe.

Good advice. Do the track day and think about what you want. It made me re-evaluate everything from a new perspective.

There you go, what Richard has. Thats most of your research done, cool. Personally id swap the injectors and pump for the Deatchwerks, cos id diy. And they just plug straight in. That turbo option is bolt on, no mods, easy diy. Nistune can be installed if you send it to him in SA, not much saving if any, tuning is the big cost. Actually $1200 all up is slightly cheaper. Z32 is EASY PEASY. Its just some soldering wires in the new plug. theres photos of which wires to do. This is one you can do. The clutch is VERY annoying and difficult, but it cost me about $550 diy. Its only fun for the fools like me. Exhaust? That might help with power, can be real cheap too. Just remember...stainless is a waste of money, steel is fine, usually better.

More power? Can you use what you already have? What diff do you have? If its viscous, it has to get swapped for something good, and thats expensive. Also, think about what can be used on both gtst and gtr, too keep and swap over later. You must keep stock parts to put back on rosie when you sell for a gtr. EVERYTHING except dyno tuning can be done at home. save $$$ Simple is cheaper and more reliable. For example: electronic boost controllers are an unreliable expensive waste of time. Get an actuator at the right psi, its reliable. Dont get bov's and rubbish like that. Also things like Deatchwerks fuel pumps and injectors are great for diy as they dont need mods to fit. A bosch or walbro needs f-ing around to fit. Thats why people like hi-flow turbo's as they are the same turbo, with different internals. They are real easy to fit, same lines, manifold, pipe etc. Not f-ing around to fit things is also cheaper. So what do you want? What can you afford? How are you going to do it? PLAN well and RESEARCH. Dont forget the details, the devils in the details. Or pay too much $$$$ I can always can help with doing stuff, im in belco too.

hang on ill double check and get a photo

Guys, guys, your doing it all wrong.... well sort of..... some of you. Heres how i do it on my 32 with rb20det: Empty old coolant and refill with cooling system cleaner, follow instructions on the bottle (warm up engine etc). usually you mix with tap water. To flush, i pull the radiator hoses off the radiator end, blast radiator with hose from top & bottom. Take out the thermostat for good flow and flush the engine with the hose from top and bottom. Flush it heaps. Put the thermostat and hoses back on. Fill it with coolant water mix. To bleed, i jack up the front of the car so air goes to the front of the plenum, and i have a large diameter silicon hose that fits snug into the radiator neck. And a hose with a small valve attached to the bleed nipple behind the head, on the heater hose. cos its a total pain to get to otherwise, youll see. Then i simply open the bleed on the valve and the plenum, fill the big hose with coolant and watch it flow out the bleeds. The level in the big hose is higher than the engine so it pushes the air out. I run the engine between bleeds as i think it can suck air in if you bleed with the engine running. You will find that after cleaning the system, it will go sludgy again. This is just some leftovers, dont worry its probly quite clean now, so after a few days or a week, change the coolant again and it will stay clean. Having the valve at the back, and the big hose for the radiator, makes it really easy to bleed it often and well.

On a 32 its the green wire. Under the parcel shelf theres a little box with wires, but i dunno about 33.

I need my r200 viscous diff fixed/upgraded, and im thinking a 1.5 way would be good. But im in Canberra and theres no one any good who can do transmissions or diffs here. So ill have to send it away. But where? I have no idea whos any good. Thanks, Mik.

Yes.

Which bearing shop do you work at? Can i bring them in?

GTA 5! Sik.... A revolutionary, awesome game, like Battlefield.

Jezza, you must watch the movie this is from: Its called Full Metal Jacket

Yes, i should know that. Silly me. Or numbers. The search begins...........

I bid one reach around.

Interested. Seals and bearings for R200?

Found some vids on youtube of a jap guy rebuilding the Nissan R200 diff. He even does the centre and checks backlash, all easy to see the exact process. So im thinking of giving it a try, all i need is one of those dial guages, seals and bearings, and the right shims. Its NOT the diff shimming process that is explained in the diy section. Its a full reco.

sauce

Track day set up: Got a Velo 90mm deep dish wheel, its just right.

Changing the whole diff isnt too hard. Rebuilding a diff well is tricky. you need to know about all the details of clearance and gear meshing, correct backlash etc. And the gear to measure all that. And possible machining etc. Ill leave that to the pros.

Hill climbs were ok, a bit tired, bub was up all night. So only got 0.6 better than last time. CAR 8 R32 Skyline 57.40 3.24 14.89 54.21 3.43 14.67 54.15 3.40 14.55 53.96 3.14 14.06 54.06 3.39 14.31 53.94 3.02 13.97 Some very messy driving, but 54.06 was a nice neat lap. Cant do well tired, just dont stack. Its like BF3, when im on the ball i can blitz and get mvp1. Tired and i get owned. Better luck next time, and ill have better tyres by then. How was the cruise?

Oh yeah that does look good! i was just using my imagination to see it before. Yeah just like that, but with the volks and a normal wing. And normal mirrors, painted green too. The indicators i have were clear, but old and yellowing, then sprayed with clear orange which doesnt even last 2 months. in other words they are junk.

Nice shiny blue bits ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Stripped and ready for hillclimbs:

Im going to respray my R32 Gtst. Its going to be a deep green, like the new commodore green, with a gold ghost pearl. It will have 17" Volk GTC's with gold centres, and a GTR style front bar. What front indicators are going to look the best? Clear or Orange? Thanks, mik. Ps: trolls and haters welcome, its always good fun.

My diff is fked too.... Ive been looking and reading for a while, it seems the only good solution is rebuild with a Nismo centre. Shimming doesnt last long and may wreck the other bits in the diff, and therefore cost more to finally fix. My biggest problem is finding someone to do it well, Diff Dr is good but way expensive.