D.I.Y. Mik

Fairly new tailshaft with BIG unis. Solid cradle shim thingys. Good point Isha, it could be an axle or bearing. It almost feels like the crankshaft, but i cant tell just by listening. Would a tiny bit of air in the clutch line do this? it feels ok, but it did get changed just before.

yeah its a cold one tonight If i get out ill check both

Solid gearbox mount is too loud, has to go. Bad shudders under acceleration, some problem that i can now feel cos of the solid mount. Must diagnose and fix. Richard, nice wheels, and i have to give back that boss kit sometime.

I just installed a solid gearbox mount, as the old one is starting to peel. Its horrible and noisy as youd expect, however there is a serious shuddering when i accelerate. Its almost as bad as if it was misfiring. I think it was there before but i never felt it. I dont think its normal. Its an R32 gtst, rb20det, manual box, single piece tailshaft, recent clutch change to exedy heavy duty, flywheel machined etc, gearbox is a bit ratty, diff is bad too. Also just installed a braided line from clutch master to slave. There was no damper in the old line. Just ordered the Nismo mount, but if theres a problem it might wreck that mount too. And my new engine mounts. (maybe its why all my old mounts were stuffed) What is it? Any educated guess is welcome.

The Nistune is nice and cheap too. Fuel pump and injectors might help. Im getting 180 kw safe and reliable with all that on 14 psi rb25 turbo. Now the turbo is the weak point. Cant go any more boost. JJR steel bellmouth works good for me, dont go stainless, its a waste of money. Op6 turbo is good cos when you want to hi flow, it has the good housing. But think..... if you want cheap, you get the tune once. That means working it all out, install all the bits, and get the Nistune.

Old gearbox mount is starting to peel off the rubber. Looked for the cheapest fix so i put in one of those GKtech solid mounts. Holy crap it makes the whole car rumble, and the gear whine is full on! And thats only backing up the driveway! Maybe a bit harsh for my liking. I think its more of a full on race car thing. Braided clutch line in, bit of a pain to bleed it. Have to test drive and see how it goes.

So i had a good read of this thread and came up with the solution. After bleeding the master. On the slave cylinder If the bleed nipple is not at the high point, it wont bleed the air out. So i took mine off, with a bit of tape to stop the piston coming all the way out. Then i held it with the bleed nipple at the high point, and opened the bleed, pushed the piston in, closed the bleed, let the piston out. Repeat until all air is gone, keep an eye on the fluid level up top. Rinse well and get all the brake fluid off. Works!

More things in the mail: Bits for wheels and deep dish for correct position when the race seat is in. No fake centrecaps to be found, so i had to fork out for the real ones. No rear tyres yet, i have to wait. So sunday hillclimbs on the street wheels/tyres. Now i have a guide to handling, i was thinking i should try a suspension tweak to try and get less drift.

Can lend a variety of useful things and stuff:

Id say something else broke too. Or bent like you said, probably when the pivot broke. Maybe that something happened first and broke the pivot. Gtst? GTR? Single plate? Double? Probly have to take the box off again, and check it all out. I had a lot of trouble with the retainer spring popping off. Then when i tried to put it back the thrust bearing was jammed, and i had to unjam it. Which popped the spring off..... Got there eventually.

Had a go at repairing the $25 guards, but i think its a waste of time. Theres a thin layer of fibreglass in there somewhere under the putty. And the putty is all old and cracking. ill use them for testing the spraygun. Bonnett was painted in something that looked like fake vinyl? Thick crap whatever it was. Couldnt sand it, too soft and clogged the paper, so paint stripper carefully used and washed off. Then sand sand sand. Getting there. The primer underneath is nice and hard. And some freebies came with a book i bought. I dont have an rc car, so there free to whoever wants them.

If your hubs are slightly out, which is often the case on an older car, your new rotors will be out of line too. If this happens, get the rotors machined on the hub, mark it so if you ever take it off you can put it on the same way. Now my rotors are matched to the hubs, as my hubs arent perfect, still quite good but not perfect. Yes, sometimes you have to machine new rotors! Made side panels for the radiator intake area. Just made from corflute for a template, they seem to work ok, bottom is still open, thats next. Top has the Greddy one on.

Got this the other day So simple, its a good introduction to handling. Even though its for rc cars, it translates well. For example: shock oil is shock damping, so when they say thicker oil it means more damping. Theres nice simple diagrams, flowcharts and tables. Its very basic, and thats why i like it.

No, we are the weirdo's. The whingers are usually from somewhere else.

At least its on a slab, you wont have problems with a rotting floor. When i said dig, i meant into the wall, but you described the damage there is fairly well. Yes it sounds like the whole wall will have to go. Old house? Hardwood or pine frames? Pine rots easy. Hardwood should have hardly any damage.

Jack of all, master of none.

Maybe you can DIY and keep your car. It depends exactly where its leaking from. If you can fix the plumbing by replacing a tap or re-sealing a screw in fitting, you wont need a plumber. Us plumbers charge the earth, so theres a big saving. If you can match the old tiles with new ones and save as many as possible, more $$ saving. Re sheeting and wet sealing isnt hard either. Remember You Tube has a lot of tutorials on anything. I can lend all the tools youd need except tiling stuff. Try digging to the damage and put up a photo for better advice.

Discs done at home. $77. Rotor Pro. The guy told me about how if your hubs are out of line, your discs will be out of line(logical); so brand new discs wont fix it. Machining on the hub, and leaving it bolted on exactly the same way makes it properly straight. So mark your discs to the hub before taking them off, left, right and the stud. Also skyline brakes are nice, ive never taken them off before. You can cheat and leave the lines on.

Got discs machined today. they were a bit warped Machined on the hub, so they wont have any run out at all. Marked now so they must go back on the same, if they ever come off again.

Exactly, there you go, cheap too. Wish i found that before, wtf its cheap enough... ill have to try. have you tried it?

No, an engineer on the project, he designed and built the steering and suspension. In the films of the run, you can see him for a second or two, hes the tall guy with glasses.

Fitted a cooling panel, which showed how my lights are out of line. Fixed it up so it fits well Made an air sucker to keep the cabin air clean, taped up all holes and gaps from cabin to boot. And the vent in the right rear guard was stuffed, so i put one there too. They are plumbing aav's. Bought a proper guard roller, to fit wider tyres. And lipped the guards a bit for starters. I want to go 255 on the back, thats a 235, im going to use them on the front. i put it there to see how much more i can go. Replaced the left radius rod bracket with a straight one. This is the old one, bent. Hillclimb soon, getting the front brakes machined tomorrow, as there is a slight pulse in the front left. Thats why the radius rod bracket got replaced, the bolt hole was slightly enlarged and allowed the radius rod to move.

Love that diffuser. Looks neat.

Rob, its easy to check the belt and if its out a tooth out. You wind it over untill the marks line up on the crank and both cams. It will be obvious if its a tooth out of alignment on one cam. When i did mine, i took off the radiator and intercooler, so i had access from the front, it was soo easy that way. Lots of nice pics from Bryce to guide you through. Ps Rob if you need any tools, ive got em to lend to you.

Tightened the exhaust manifold today. Some nuts were quite loose, so thats where the exhaust gas was coming from, i hope.