D.I.Y. Mik

Hard induction pipe going in, but i have to move the washer bottle, to do that i have to move other stuff...... one mod leads to another, leads to another. Bloody tight engine bay. Batteries gone to the boot and theres still not enough room for everything.

Rego muffler may fit r33, fits r32. Im sure someone here has one for r33

For sure, been there plenty of times. I just shut my mouth when i get cranky. Good thing too cos ive been wrong half the time.

Im pretty sure you can machine slotted rotors. Easy to find out, just ring that Rotor Pro dude in the yellow pages. But yeah, what he does is have the rotor bolted on the hub, and then has a machine that machines it straight. Once its done the rotor is matched to the hub, so you must mark the alignment, just in case. Cant remember exactly what the toolface looked like, so maybe it wont do slotted. dunno. But the machine spun the rotor past the toolface or stone thats in it.

No pedders, they will bend you over and ...... Go to capital steering and suspension. Or come over to my house i have the adjusting tool and a ruler.

Really? Why? Im guessing it handles it well and feels right. Or Its too peaky and you only get a little squirt of 400+ kw Or You ride sportbikes and nothing compares too that. Or Your a law abiding citizen and haven had it on the track with the new tune. maybe At the hillclimb, a 32 gtr with minor mods, smashed my time by more than 5 seconds. They are quick as already.

Handed the polishing kit to rob as he handed me an alloy intake. Doh! Stuff it im putting it in anyway, its mostly hidden so it doesnt have to be bling.

exactly

fuel regulator usually isnt needed as upgraded injectors dont need more pressure. unless your going for huge power

Have a good look at you injectors and compare with photos on google images. If your keen, take out the fuel pump and do the same. If you spend a bit of time reading : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/ You will see what is actually needed to make power, and what does nothing. What i learned is if you have a bigger turbo and want more power, you need more fuel. The standard fuel system only has enough for a slightly bigger turbo, and small power gain. And you need a computer to run it of course. A Nistune is suitable for anything thats not making heaps of power. ( for rb 25s i dont know exactly how much ) Almost anything else you do to the motor wont give more power, like wanky bov's etc. But things like an upgraded cooling system can keep it in good nik longer. Dont forget the cheap effective things like exhaust and intake, though you may have most of that done already. Personally id make it run nice with the turbo you have, and concentrate on handling. Theres a lot of bits and pieces to make it handle good. It can eat up a lot of cash. I couldnt use all my 180kw because my diff was stuffed, no point having power you cant use. Ps: im jealous of your wastegate actuator, thats nice and simple, reliable and adjustable.

Nitrous? Blanked off hole in the crossover pipe would be a sign of nitrous use. That can flog the crap out of a motor, especially if the timing isnt retarded at least 5 degrees.

Yeah ill be there.

They can be tight bastards, make sure to keep the wd40 off the pads. Breaker bar helps, and some blue locktite when you put em back in is good. But, yeah 2 bolts, easy as. One thing i forgot........... If the new rotors arent perfectly straight dont be surprised, its your old hubs. The solution is get them machined ON the hub. And mark the alignment etc.

Nistune. Cheap as. Like $300-$400. Autotech in Hume tune Nistune. Theres more info in the main forum, and on Nistunes website.

Stock airbox sucks cold air, but has a small intake. With exrta holes cut its less restrictive. 0$ upgrade that works. Unboxed pods suck hot air. No good. A box can be as cheap as $10-$20.

HEY! $20 for 20 LOCK nuts, here now in my shed.

At least 12 years. Easy when it makes you spu after 2 beers. Hillclimbs on again real soon. Sunday, Nov 3rd. Been watching the vid over and over, see it pop out of third everytime i get off the throttle at the top of the hill. Seems i forgot to put in the new gearbox mount, done now, hope that fixes it.

Looks legal, as long as that hole in the top of the can is blocked off. A can of flat black paint hides all.

New indicators on. And all back to street setup, normal seat etc...

Its a long read but....... See my reo plates fo the pipes? Up to regulation specs, just not on an engineers cert. I have MANY mods, but knowing the adr means i can make most of them comply.

Ha, yes they are dodgy, but its cheap and saves me making my own. I had to give mine a bit of a tweak to get it to fit.

Thanks, the old 32 gtst wing is good. Heavy though. And im loving the wheels, but i have good tread on my old ones, so im saving the new ones for trackdays and dressing up for friday night etc.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R32-GTR-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTR-RB26DETT-RB26-GODZILLA-1989-race-drag-street-turbo-/281192235667 i wonder how cheap it will go for http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R32-GTR-1991-Nissan-Skyline-/131026076636 lol angry wife = no bid

Here you go. Ill chuck in $50 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/curtin/cars-vans-utes/1987-nissan-skyline-sedan-must-be-sold/1029875979 Seriously its a good place to start. And the most fun cars are shtboxes.

SAU Nickname: DIY Mik Car Make and Model: Nissan HCR32 Skyline Circuit Name: The Hill, canberra hillclimb track Lap time: 50.83 Modifications Engine: rb20det Power: 180kw Suspension: silvers neomax Tyres: federal rsr 235/40/17 255/40/17 Brakes: nissan oem / bendix pads Body weight: Dunno