WMDC35

it'll run rich as f at best!, will need to unplug afm and limp, ecu shouldn't reset

did you try a + in the intake pipe at the turbo end? fixed the stalling issues round these ways, unless it's too close

i didn't get gains like that removing the z32 afm, and had no stalling issues were they old f'd afms? or cheap after market?

sure

/\, and c34 stagea auto 4wd has same transfer with electronic drive which fits straight in & prob be easier to find?

Monica!!!!

ok, maybe just put the factory one in complete, should tell the story

the 2 piece is balanced together so unlikely to improve anything

as above, it's got to be the shaft, i'm sure they won't mind checking it

it is unusual for a diff to cause that much vibration, if it wasn't getting hot i'd be pretty much only looking at the shaft, diff must be binding or something, hopefully trying the other shaft will shed some light on it

As elite racing said earlier apparently the around 51 inches & over is the danger zone, which is about where the rwd skylines are, the loop is mainly to stop the shaft hitting the ground & potentially flipping the car I’ll prob go back to 2 piece? , interesting on some of the later mustangs they’re going from the 2 piece to 1 after failures, there’s quite a lot of debate around it (the 1 piece i have has upgraded unis, is around 2.75inches diameter & supposed to be good for over 10,000rpm? is about 50 inches long)

/\ on the 2 piece the uni's need to be lined up, did it come bolted together?, still if the diff is getting hot may be binding somwhere?, if you need to get to the track maybe just get another diff, did you have the old tailshaft to try as a comparason?

On the top next to where the plug connects (on the early type) you should see + - E , something like that, as said the plugs and wiring are different but check the symbols if in doubt

the coils should have the pins marked so compare that ,

saw a dyno of a 30 with to4z making around 800, was pretty good! maybe run with the previous searches?

he's got the hook ups, custom cast iron crank?

hell yeah! ready in time for race wars!

i checked with jamie & adam, mythbusted cheers :cheers: :cheers:

it is possible

you should be able to hear it click just past idle mine activates in neutral

It's all worked out? oh good! the goose is caught?

the oil starvation will flog the turbo so the wheel will come into contact with the housing, if you disconnect the oil feed off the rear turbo and start it up you'll prob see no oil come out or the odd drop, you'll have to pull it apart and check and clean everything

so you're saying it is blocked? seen a few cars with turbo oil starvation problems, usually blocked lines/filters if it has them, it's getting oil in the exhaust after it seizes you mean?

proma usually 'fixes' noisey lifters, in hydro lifter types if you like additives

prob more need to check the feed, check the line is clear for a kick off, is the motor sludgey inside?