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WMDC35

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Everything posted by WMDC35

  1. heroes love them, wear your undies on the outside and you'll be golden
  2. Re5 is longer so driveshaft is different, I dont really know anyone that has tried it but auto conversion electrics are nasty and usually end up in limp mode, I’d just go for another re5 or manual
  3. i'm using Mishimoto, works well
  4. i've had bc's in the last 2 cars, went with 10/8 springs, work well
  5. yeah, s1 green sticker 22680-02u00 5 pin plug (usually uses 4 pins), s2 pink sticker 22680-31u00 3 pin plug
  6. engine swap/conversion? was car running with these elecs before engine swap? not something unusual like ecu plug not pushed in properly?
  7. err td06 20g 8cm?
  8. i gained mid range response removing z32 afm and using link g4, looked all pretty similar on dyno but feels alot better to drive (IAT sensor in plumbing)
  9. i'm using g4, map sensor is just t'd in with fuel reg, awesome ecu
  10. the igniter needs to be earthed
  11. the camber that is automatically there when lowering? if you've got coil overs and no camber arms you might find its got up to about 4 degrees depending on how low etc, if it does camber arms and less camber will help alot
  12. the otr tie rod bushes would be the ones in the above pic, fairly common to fail, the rear rack ends would be at the other end of the rod inside the boots you can see behind the sub frame
  13. SAS (suspension autoparts specialists) in NZ has those ball joints, 2 different sizes apparently, as above good time for full non hicas rear
  14. i'm using single coppermix, at 340rwkw, it's awesome, going to around 360 soon so see how it holds, mainly only road use so expect it should be fine
  15. how much camber you running? I've been using federal 595 on the back, 255s, 1 degree camber, pretty good for a cheap tyre, definitely not a semi slick
  16. I have front mount holes cut, 2 as car was non turbo, fully certified including frontal impact, where ever you are check the rules closely!
  17. I'm in NZ, maybe it's a bit easier here with the ecu, as long as you run the same ecu it's certed with we seem to get away with it
  18. parts from an auto r32 gts4 would be the obvious choice? no doubt there'll be issues but would go the closest?
  19. same over here, follow the regulations, take it to the right people & pay enough money!
  20. 100% certified as it sits, i'm in NZ though so always need to check the rules where you are
  21. always pay to check the regulations where you are, i'm over 260 and fully legal as it sits, i know my insurance will still do the loop hole
  22. if you suspect low fuel maybe try put a bit extra in? or try some engine start might help tell if fuel related, was it going then stopped or had work then didn't go?
  23. it's hard to do good & cheap with ecus, nistune prob most eco, link g4 is good ,does boost control & doesn't need z32 afm so in the long run not too bad if you're going to go further, there's a few reputable tuners on here so see who's in your area and they'll be able to recommend for your goals
  24. with the restrictor in it boosts as you want and is quieter, win win?
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