Re5 is longer so driveshaft is different, I dont really know anyone that has tried it but auto conversion electrics are nasty and usually end up in limp mode, I’d just go for another re5 or manual
i gained mid range response removing z32 afm and using link g4, looked all pretty similar on dyno but feels alot better to drive
(IAT sensor in plumbing)
the camber that is automatically there when lowering? if you've got coil overs and no camber arms you might find its got up to about 4 degrees depending on how low etc, if it does camber arms and less camber will help alot
the otr tie rod bushes would be the ones in the above pic, fairly common to fail, the rear rack ends would be at the other end of the rod inside the boots you can see behind the sub frame
if you suspect low fuel maybe try put a bit extra in? or try some engine start might help tell if fuel related, was it going then stopped or had work then didn't go?