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WMDC35

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Everything posted by WMDC35

  1. mythbusters did a test with fuel additives, the moth balls seemed to do pretty well haha
  2. much higher det temp with e85, don't think you'll be running much boost with that comp on 98 as above buy a drum?
  3. proper forward facing only, no one is talking about the chop job because it's crap
  4. have been considering a mix, are most people mixing the fuel or just letting it mix in the tank?
  5. lith, what's your thoughts on our gull e10? (vs 98), cheers
  6. slightly more flow, vct & $7k less does sound like the one? kellfords have billets that you could get to whatever spec
  7. yeah give it a good going over, sounds like it's losing more power than the vct would cause
  8. seems unlikely overtightening would stop it working but now there's drama would be good to torque it, to lose power up top from the vct it would have to be stuck on, you'd probably notice the idle & a bit of a different note from exhaust if that was the case so seems more like a timing issue?
  9. yes obviously, was just chucking possibilites for the power loss rb just advances the cam timing, unfortunately not as fancy as vtec & mivec
  10. applying power at idle will at least tell if pulley is working, at those loads at least, if jammed on you'd notice power loss over 5500ish (sounds worse than that?), and idle would be a bit rough, so prob points towards cam timing? hopefully not broken locator on the cam for cas?
  11. power it up with the car running and see if it changes the idle
  12. my bad, quick work post was unclear, it's you that can't box
  13. you can't just jump in the ring & think you can box
  14. could try boost control by speed/gear setup
  15. +1!
  16. got a decent diff? with 255s mine's not toooo bad at 340, retune in a few weeks might be worse after that
  17. haha, yeah something wrong in the head is no fun!
  18. all the fab guys will be inspired!
  19. maybe not as hard as that! something's bound to break!
  20. 44 should be ok, i had TS manifold with a tial 38, was fine at 21psi 340rwkw
  21. there's a good thread about this in the drivetrain section somewhere, most of our cars are around the length where it's possible for 1 piece to go critical, but if built properly with the right tube etc supposed to be ok
  22. As above, wire the mac valve to the original solenoid wiring
  23. just trace the shape you want & take it to a laser cutter
  24. could put NA model brakes on the back to fit the 15s
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