GeeDog

I have a pair of front guard liners, from an R33 GTST series 2, that I removed a few weeks ago so I could roll the guard lips to fit wider tyres. They don't look much like your photo though, so not sure if they are of any use. The back story is that my car is a track car, and 3 or 4 years ago we made the front bar into a removable one, so we could get the car on & off the transporter. At that time we probably removed the front part of the guard liners - the bit that is behind the front bar. We left the bit that goes from the front of the metal guard around to the bottom of the wheel arch behind the wheel - these are the bits I removed recently. I don't remember if the front part of the liner was a seperate part, or if we cut it off the rear part of the liner. I also don't know where the front parts ended up, but I can't find them. I'm a hoarder, and my son is the opposite, so it's likely that he dumped them. If the bits I have are any good to you, you can have them for a carton (or $50), including shipping. They'll fold in half and fit in a small box, and weigh next to nothing. Note that both have rub marks, and one has rubbed through in one spot.

I may be able to help, will get back to you tomorrow after I've had a chance to check.

Dude, your opinion is that released is a shit term to use - but your opinion is just that, no-one else cares. I said clutch is released, you interpreted that as clutch pedal is released - surely you know the difference between a clutch and a clutch pedal. The attitude was becuase your post added nothing of value to the conversation, but you had to say it anyway - do you work for the government? You saw an opportunity to call someone out, and couldn't resist. Anyway, if you haven't actually got something uselful to say, I'll just ignore you.

Sorry, pretty sure I didn't say engaged. Released, as in not engaged, as in depressed. Sorry if my terms don't meet your approval - actually no I'm not, I couldn't give a f**k. I was pointing something out to someone who may or may not know how noisy a multiplate can be, not looking for a rude reply from you. If you know as much as you claim, you'd know what I meant by released - don't make up shit to make yourself look like an expert.

The Xtreme is a noisy f ucker when released, not sure I'd like driving it in city traffic.

I've got one in an R33 GTST track car, with around 300 RWKW. Mine is the Xtreme "230mm twin plate race clutch with ceramic solid centre" - they have a few different twin plate options so not sure if this is the same one. Pedal feel is good, and very light (certainly lighter than the single plate Xtreme ceramic puck that was in before, probably lighter than stock clutch). I don't find it hard to modulate, but I don't drive it on the street, only the track. Full noise starts are easy, no issues with it being too "grabby". Like Ben, cost (around $1000 less than a Nismo) and local support were factors, plus the previous single plate Xtreme lasted a lot longer than I expected it to given the harsh environment & power level. I don't regret buying it.

Upgrade to 660 if it's a serious track car.

I use 4 of these: Tyre strap Along with 4 x 2500kg ratchet straps - one on each wheel.

FFS, do you think that liking a particular make means you have to forget everything you ever knew about other makes. It isn't a marriage, no-one ever bought a Skyline & promised to "love honour & obey, forsaking all others" (except maybe Slap).

Mine is a track-only car, and I knew when it split- suddenly there was much less top end. Tried to find the leak at the track & couldn't. Got home & hooked up the leak test plug & compressor, and as we increased the pressure it suddenly opened up. When we removed the pressure, the split closed up again & looked like it was perfect. The rubber is pretty hard, and showing it's age.

I pulled the item description from my Ebay purchase history, so yes. It was last year, so my memory is a bit hazy. The split in the original was interesting - it only opened up under boost, so at idle / low revs it wasn't leaking. Only found it after connecting a testing bung & pressurising the system with compressed air.

I've got one in Adelaide (actually I've got 2, but one is split, probably because it's old). I replaced mine with silicone ones - Silicone elbow which work fine. No association with the seller, but they were cheap enough and do the job.

Are you planning on using the VCT? You'll need to get head mods done for the oil supply, and also to allow a bit more meat where the RB30 block is different to the RB25 (if I remember correctly a coolant gallery in the block isn't really covered by the head. I might be totally wrong, it's been a few years & I'm not as young as I used to be. I used a machine shop who has done quite a few RB25/30 setups, and was going to recommend him to you, until I realised South Africa.

South Africa then - SA on an Australian forum is usually taken as being South Australia.

Nice - a couple of points I saw: - try and move your camera down a bit, or remove the mirror - the mirror blocks the camera's view of the track ahead - use the rev range a bit more before changing up - you seem to be short-shifting - at least get your mate to wear shorts

Re oil control - you won't be able to do much at all without pulling the engine out, and if you pull the engine out it's probably worth doing as much as possible. This includes an extended & baffled sump, and a drain from the back of the head (you need to drill & tap holes to mount this, which is why it can't be done with the engine in the car). Then you need to decide if you want to remove the head, and fit restrictors & drill out the block oil returns. It can get expensive very quickly, but so can oil starvation. Lewis Racing Engines in SA sell extended baffled sumps & head drain kits at reasonable prices. If you do buy a sump, get some extra nipples added for a catch can to drain to, and for the side head drain if you ever change to an RB30 block. I tried just adding more oil, but found that it just got pumped out the breathers really quickly at high revs. I believe the RB25 needs these mods as much as a 26 does. I destroyed an almost new turbo from what was almost certainly oil starvation, and the broken bits of turbine scratched the bores of a freshly machined block & new forged pistons. Should have done it properly the first time. Re harness mounts - I made a harness bar that bolts to the top mounting points for the rear seatbelts. Basically a length of roll-cage bar, with a bit of 50x5 flat bar welded to each end. This puts the harness angles pretty much horizontal, and it has been scrutineered probably 30+ times with no issues.

You don't mention any engine work having been done. If you are planning on doing track work you should consider the oiling issues that RBs tend to have on the track.

My one & only visit to the Nürburgring - back in 2007. Couldn't see 5 metres in front of you. I'd give almost anything to drive my R33 there now. I'd also love to drive my daily on the autobahn, but thats another story. Keep posting your videos.

We are running an RB25/30, so RB30 bottom end (including P/S bracket I think), so confirmation would be good. Thanks again for the info.

Hi Troy, nice to hear from you. Ok, that info doesn't seem to be readily available - the page for this kit has no info at all on what it's for, how it works etc. My info on using it to stop the belt coming off came from a third party, and seemed to make sense in the absence of other data. It looks like it would help, but the webpage says "Note: This assembly is designed to fit with a Ross Nissan RB25 Billet Power Steering Pump Bracket (will not fit on a OEM RB30 power steering pump bracket)." These 2 kits together are $900+ - thats a lot of belts. Maybe I'll stock up on them. Cheers Geoff

I have to say thats also the first thing that came to my mind when I watched the video. Where's the video of that?

I know you guys like the steering wheel in a different place to us, but on the back window???

We run the factory setup and have issues. The Ross bracket is supposed to stop the issues, and I was looking for anyone who has used ne to confirm that I'm not wasting my money - they aren't cheap.

Thanks Jonas, we'll look into that option as well.

Ross make a billet bracket that relocates the power steering pump on an RB to where the A/C compressor normally lives. It is designed for track use, and is to shorten the PS drive belt and prevent the belt jumping off. We have an R33 track car, and have broken or lost the power steering belt several times now. The belt is a 3PK, and only goes over 2 pulleys - the harmonic balancer & the PS pump. Each time we've lost the belt, it has been when downshifting from high revs - when braking for a corner at the end of a straight. I believe the reverse torque when the clutch is released is causing the belt to jump, and sometimes enough to come off. I'm looking for anyone who has used this Ross bracket, or any other feedback on it. Any assistance would be appreciated.