GeeDog

Do that, but you've used the free one. I charge for any further - maybe try the internet?

It's an accelerator, and you use it to accelerate. I think excellerator / excellerated has something to do with spreadsheets, or with being excellent.

Is this legal?

Unplug the single wire connector, and see if the gauge stops working...

RB30 doesn't have a housing - there is just a hollow stud screwed into the block, and the filter spins onto that. The o-ring on the filter seals against the block (which is where your current housing seals now). If you wanted to fit an external oil cooler, you could remove the housing, install an RB30 stud, fit a sandwich plate over the stud, then run lines to the cooler. You can put the oil pressure sensor in the sandwich plate. We ran our track car like this for a while. You can buy the RB30 stud (actually, for some strange reason you have to buy 2) from Nissan spare parts. Here is a link to one at Kudos - RB30 oil filter stud

This may be a problem.

This was the issue when mine was filling the catch can after a few hot laps.

Usually grey imports have an Australian "stick-on" compliance label, that is attached when it is brought into the country and complied. The original Japanese blue VIN plate is also left attached. Have a closer look (in the door frames is common) for this compliance sticker - if it's registered it's likely to have one somewhere.

This will depend on whether the events are multi-club or not. Multi-club means they will take entries from anyone who has an appropriate licence (L2S or whatever it's called now usualyy for speed events). If it's not a multi-club event, you will need to be a member of one of the CSCA member clubs as listed above. Because I'm bored, I found a copy of the supp regs for their round 2 event on May 26th, and it is indeed a multi-club event, but the wording for entries is that "members of the following invited clubs (same list as above) are eligible to enter, along with members of other CAMS affiliated clubs at the discretion of the secretary, if it is not a full field of 120 from CSCA clubs" - so it will depend on how popular the events are. If they get 120 entries from CSCA club members, you won't get in. I've attached the supp regs for you, so you can find out pretty much everything you need to know about that event. It is likely that all their supersprints will be almost identical - dates, names etc will change but the rules and format should stay the same. Approved+Supp+Regs.pdf

They were from an ebay seller, but too long ago to shown in my account. We bought the kit mostly for the radiator hoses, and fitted them and a couple of others when we got the kit. Have since fitted most of them when the engine was out - no way without either pulling the engine or the intake manifold. Still have a couple of hoses left over - no idea where they were supposed to go.

I wish - had the same issue a few years ago so it wasn't hard to see it in the photo. I cut the hose a bit shorter, and it has worked fine for 3 years or so. The hose kit we bought had 12 or more hoses, and I still haven't worked out where some of them go.

The top radiator hose looks like it needs to be shortened, to take the kink out of it.

Australian wheel seller

Rebuilt with or without being highflowed? Your original question said you were running a RB25 turbo, and you were wondering what turbo it was. A later post says it has a 21U on the back and a 415v3 on the front (so it's only part of an RB25 turbo), and a later post again says you had it rebuilt with a BB core. What did the person who rebuilt it tell you it was? Did they convert it to BB, or was it already BB before it was rebuilt? Which bits are original RB25 - the rear housing only? How high you can turn it up will depend on what's in it - it obviously isn't a (stock) RB25 turbo.

How sure are you that it's a ball bearing core?

Depending on the rims, you also have the option to get the hub mating surface machined. There are businesses who specialise in rim repairs, who can do this for you. There is a minimum thickness they will machine to, so the rims may or may not be suitable. I had 4mm removed from 2 front BMW rims recently to fix a rubbing issue - cost was around $80 per rim.

Did you get this sorted? I've found the body side heater hoses off my R33, and I'm in Adelaide. They are 19mm / 3/4" ID, and appear to be in good condition. Removed cause track car.

Still for sale

I have a set (4) of Enkei RP01 alloys in 17x8" with +38 offset. These were track rims on our R33 GTST until we had to upgrade to 18's to clear a BBK. They were cleaned up & painted bronze when we first bought them. There are some chips in the paint around the edge of the rims, from fitting & removing tyres. The alloy isn't damaged. The centre bore is 72mm so they will fit Ford, Toyota, Mitsubsihi & Nissan - you may want hub rings depending on what car they go on. One rim has been repaired on the inner lip before we bought them - didn't know about it until the tyre was swapped. It looks like a professional job and the wheel had no issues with leaking or vibration. The repair is pretty hard to see. I don't have any centre caps for the rims. Photos are old ones, but happy to get the rims out of storage and take more detailed pics if anyone is interested in them. They aren't showcar rims, but the price reflects this. They are in Adelaide, but I can pack & deliver to a courier depot for interstate buyers. Looking for $420 for the set. Edit - tyres not included.

I'll sell it for $450 plus postage - and to put that into perspective it cost me $330 just to supply & fit the extended oil pump collar onto the RB30 crank.

Long version of the story: It's been to the crankshaft machinist twice. The first time it was crack tested, tested for straightness, had the oil pump collar fitted, the plugs were drilled & tapped for grubscrews, and it was linished. (I was thinking machined, but pretty sure I was wrong - more on this later). The cranksahft guy also supplied new bearings (ACL Race), I can't find the receipt for this job. This was in early 2016, and was as part of a full motor rebuild - block & head machined, forged pistons etc. The issue that prompted the rebuild was cracked ringlands. We put the motor back together, and ran it for about 6 months. Then the turbo crapped itself, and the diagnosis was possible lack of lubrication. The turbo went back to be re-done, and at the same time we bought an extended baffled sump. While the sump was off we pulled the crank out, and because the thought was that oil supply was an issue, took it back to the machine shop to be checked. There was no crank damage, but a couple of the bearings showed some wear. At this stage the crank was checked & linished, and we bought another set of bearings. I do have this receipt - it was Sep 16, and the bearings we bought were 6B1216-STD & 7M1203-STD - so standard size. I can't remember the brand, but pretty sure we couldn't get ACL Race so these were an alternative. The receipt only has the part numbers as above. We put the bottom end back together with the extended sump, fitted the new turbo, and took it to be dynoed. Results were not what they should be, so we changed a few things, checked valve timing etc, and took it back to the dyno. Still not what it should have been, so we pulled the head and found scratches in several bores - looked like bits of the turbine had gone throught it. At about the same time someone advertised a New Old Stock RB30 bottom end - had never been started, so we bought that and built an RB25/30. The crankshaft & bearings have done 2 dyno sessions since the linish. Bearings are all still mated to the journals they were on, and I'd re-use them. If you are serious I'm sure the machinist would have a quick look and give you his opinion - he is an old school machine shop who only does crankshafts - business name is Crankshaft Grinding Specialist P/L. Journal sizes are 48mm for rods, and 55mm for mains - all within around .03mm by my vernier. Pics of the hournals are at Journal pics

A couple of close-up shots of the keyways:

It has been machined, and I have an almost new set of big end & main bearings that can go with it. I'll need to take a closeup of the keyway, will try & do that tomorrow. The only reason we no longer need the crank is because we changed to an RB25/30.

I've got one in SA that's in excellent condition. It has been crack tested & linished, and has the oil plugs replaced with grub screws. It also has an extended oil drive collar fitted. It is from a series 2 R33 GTST, so RB25DET. I don't know if the RB25 & RB25DET cranks are the same or not.

Auto headlight is different to adaptive headlights. High beam assistant is described on page 101 of my user manual. The option code on my car is "S5AC High Beam Assistant", and this is what it does (c&p from a google search): What is high beam assistant? High-beam assist recognises oncoming vehicles at night, switching headlights between main and dipped beam automatically. It's a very clever bit of kit and is claimed to make nocturnal driving less stressful Yesterday I received my new OBD port to RJ45 adaptor, which allows a network connection into the CIC via the OBD port. This makes it simple to get the file needed to allow the generation of an FSC code, which in turn is needed to install new maps. I'd already got the file I needed for my car by plugging the hard disk into a Neutrino VM, but had ordered the adaptor from China a few weeks ago and wanted to see if it worked. Now that I have the OBD-RJ45 adaptor and an IDE disk - USB adaptor, I can backup & restore CIC & NBT hard disks, and generate FSC codes for map updates.