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GeeDog

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Everything posted by GeeDog

  1. Check & clean the battery connections & earth points for battery & in engine bay. Have you tried another battery - they can appear to work fine but fail under high load (starter motor is high load).
  2. Thanks for linking that article - very interesting read.
  3. HAS IT BEEN RUN IN YET Sorry, need to stop shouting. Has it been run in yet? Are you looking for a run-in oil or a long-term oil? What do you use the car for - is it a track car or a daily driver, or a combination?
  4. No idea - someone else may know. As I said, at the least I'd run a hose between the 2 outlets to keep the flow somewhat similar to stock. Ours has been on the track a couple of times since building the motor, and we've had no overheating issues.
  5. Did this recently on an RB25/30 build. We still have the stock oil filter/cooler fitted, and I ran a hose from each of the fittings circled in your pic to the oil cooler. I had to buy a couple of 3/4" to 5/8" (I think) brass adaptors - the fittings in the block are 3/4" (or 19mm), while the oil cooler hoses are smaller. If you aren't using the oil cooler, I'd probably put a hose between these 2 fittings. If you want to block them off you can get blanking plugs to fit - I bought heavy duty silicon ones off ebay to block some other coolant & vacuum pipes.
  6. Where are you? If you are in a capital city, try United Fasteners - if they don't have them then they aren't worth having. United Fasteners locations
  7. 20 foot wheels - you drifters are crazy....
  8. Probably unrelated, but we built an RB25/30 recently. Put it all back in the car (R33 Skyline), and have also had a tapping noise, seemingly from the top end. Today teh alternator died, and we replaced with another used one. Started the engine & the "lifter" noise was compeltely gone. Did several track sessions & it hasn't come back. Glad we didn't pull the rocker covers - everyone who heard it was convinced it was a lifter. Ours was revving fine though.
  9. Pretty sure they don't have Infiniti brand in Japan - maybe your's is actually a Nissan...
  10. In Adelaide we have a guy called Captain Thread. He specialises in this sort of thing, and comes to the car to work his magic. I'd be surprised if there isn't someone similar in Sydney. It would be money well spent.
  11. Cheap R33 bits in Adelaide I'm cleaning out my workshop, and have some cheap bits for sale: R33 GTST Passenger's seat - bit dusty/dirty but in pretty good condition $5 R33 GTST Aircon bits - compressor, engine bay lines & condensor $20 Was working when removed a few years ago Space saver spare wheel/tyre from 350GT - 5x114.3, T145/90D16 tyre never been on the road $40 R33 GTST electric radiator fan (for aircon) $20 R33 GTST Airbox & snorkel - snorkel has a small bit cut-out to clear alloy radiator, includes an air filter $40 R33 GTST stock side-mount intercooler $10 R33 GTST Coupe headlining in reasonable condition $10 RB30 sump (also fits RB25/RB25DET) has a small split. Ideal for someone who wants to put extended wings on (or use as exchange for extended sump) as the split is where the wings go anyway $40 Pair of Nankang NS-2R semi slicks, nearly new tread depth, 120 tread wear rating, 255/40ZR17 $80 Happy to post smaller items at cost. Not posting whell, tyres seat, headlining. Pics on request.
  12. GKTech caliper brackets for R33 GTST I have a pair of GKTech front brake caliper brackets to fit an R33 GTST Skyline. These brackets allow the stock Sumitomo front calipers to fit over a larger GTR rotor, providing more braking power & better heat dispersion. These are ideal if you do track days or motorsport in your R33. All bolts are included. I believe they also fit R32, S13. S14 & S15, but you need to confirm this yourself.They are used, boly heads have surface rust, but otherwise no issues. Located in Adelaide, but can post at cost.
  13. In the interests of balanced reporting - I had a not-at-fault accident in my 350GT about 3 years ago. A blind ute driver ran into the back of me - I know he was blind because the first question he asked me was "where did you come from" - I was in front of you for the last 5 minutes retard. I was insured with Shannons, and they wrote off the car & paid me out very quickly. They gave me the choice of buying the wreck at a very reasonable price. There were no hassles, delays etc at all. I guess they knoew they would get the money from the other guy's insurance, but I was pleasantly surprised how quick & easy the process was. I have no interest in Shannons, other being happy with the only claim I've ever had through them.
  14. Which coolant temp sensor are you testing? The 2 wire one (on an R33 RB25 - assume Neo is the same) is the one the ECU reads.
  15. RB25DET Crankshaft with extended oil collar I have a crankshaft out of a series 2 RB25DET (R33 GTST S2) for sale. Price is $500. The crank was machined by "The Crankshaft Specialist" last year, including crack testing, machining all journals, fitting an extended oil pump drive collar, and drilling & grub-screwing oil passage plugs to allow cleaning of passages. The crank was inspected & linished again late last year, after a turbo failure. Included are a set of main & big-end bearings that have done almost no work, and are sized to suit the machined journals. Machine work & collar would cost more than the asking price. Price is for crankshaft & bearings only - cradle shown in photo isn't included. We have gone RB25/30 so no further use for this.
  16. Where are you? I have one in Adelaide.
  17. The gears do have marks on them, but you line them up with marks on the metal plate behind the gears, not with marks on the belt. Basically you line up each cam gear with it's mark, and set the crank to o degrees, then put the belt on without moving any of them. If you set the crank to 0 degrees on the timing marker before removing anything, the cams will be already lined up (assuming the cam timing is correct to start with). I would also change the water pump, timing belt tensioner & idler, and the camshaft seals while it's apart.
  18. BC ER coilovers & F&R Whiteline bars on ours - it works fairly well. MCA reds weren't available when we bought the BCs, but I've heard good things about them. Next suspension upgrade will be arms, to get some more camber & caster. What diff have you got - if it's the stock VLSD an upgrade may would be money well spent.
  19. Seems like a lot of money for a reasonable low power gain to me. CBF adding it up properly but somewhere north of $12K (assume US$ so more like AUD15K). Have you heard of an RB30?
  20. Plugs out? It will spin a bit faster. We had to crank for a bit longer than expected, but pressure came up fairly quickly.
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