GeeDog

You'll need to check that the motor spins in the right direction, but I've cracked a crank bolt by wedging a breaker bar against the concrete floor, disabling the engine from starting (fuel and/or ignition), and touching the key to start so the starter motor turned the engine. The jammed breaker bar held the bolt stationary. Obviously use common sense, but it worked for me.

You need one of those stickers that says "Horn broken, look for finger"

Have you ever driven a 90's auto car? They aren't called sludgeboxes for nothing.

I've got an RB30 sump (from a VL) in my shed - if you want anything specific measured or photo'd let me know & I'll dig it out.

Given your tone, I'll let you find it for yourself, rather than pulling the spare nipple out of my parts box & measuring it for you.

Go to Nissan dealer and get the stud from an RB30 in an R31, or go to a Holden dealer and get the same stub from an RB30 in a VL Commodore. The Nissan part number is 15213-W040A (which took me about 2 seconds in a Google search).

It's a track-only car, and not registered. A typical event would be 40 full noise laps of Mallala, plus 8 or so slower outlaps - maybe 120kms total. We would use around 100 - 110 litres of E85, so about 65km to a tank? We didn't build it for economy.

Just to bring this up to date - it may help others looking to do the same. I made a pressure bleeder using a Bunnings weed sprayer, a few brass fittings, a cheap pressure gauge, and a female quick-disconnect fitting. There is plenty of info on the web about this. The main thing I did different was to put the pressure gauge at the master cylinder end of the hose, rather than trying to tap it into the weed sprayer bottle. I've got a couple of euro cars as my wife & my daily's, plus an R33 GTST track car, and wanted to be able to use the bleeder on all of them. The euros were easy - they both (like most euros it seems) have a screw-on master cylinder cap. I went to the wreckers (U-Pull-It in SA, so I could walk around the cars and choose what I wanted) and bought a euro MC cap. I actually got a Volvo one, as the top surface was flatter and suited what I wanted to do. I drilled a hole in the centre of the cap, and self-threaded a 1/4 BSP quick-disconnect male fitting into it, with an o-ring to help seal the fitting to the cap. To bleed brakes, remove the MC cap from the car & replace with the modified MC cap, put new brake fluid into the weed sprayer (optional - you can also disconnect & refill the MC as needed while bleeding), pump the weed sprayer up to around 15psi, and start bleeding from the furthest wheel. I connected a length of clear hose to the bleed nipple, and put the other end into a waste bottle. Cracking the bleed nipple lets fluid flow out into the waste bottle, pushed by the air pressure into the master cylinder. Repeat for each wheel, making sure the MC doesn't run dry. The R33 was more of a challenge. I also bought a Nissan MC cap from the wreckers, and threaded a QD fitting into it like I did for the euro. When I tried this on the R33, the cap didn't seal well enough to the MC. I couldn't maintain air pressure, and if I put new fluid in the weed sprayer it leaked out of the MC cap. After doing some searching, I realised that the commercial bleeders seal against the inside wall of the MC, not against the top surface. I then drew & 3D printed a bung, with an o-ring groove, which fits into the top of the MC. I used the cap from the wreckers, with a larger hole drilled in the top, to stop the bung from being forced out by the air pressure. I haven't actually bled the brakes yet with this bung, but it holds pressure so should work fine. All up cost was less than $30, but I already had the brass fittings, pressure gauge & QD fittings.

Yes - 320 odd on E85

I wouldn't - find a real suspension place

The link in your post further up the page lists E90s - it shows as "E8x 1 series, E83 X3 and E9x 3 series" - thats the link I followed to get the page I linked. My airbag was replaced a few months ago by BMW. Is your steering wheel a BMW supplied one?

You might want to check again Prank - E9X series recall

Thanks Duncan - just the info I was looking for. What fits into the hole in the SP Tools adaptor - I'm guessing the SP kit includes something that seals and connects to the pipe. The hole looks too large to take a Nitto or similar quick connect directly. I'm not sure how I'd be able to connect my hose to it as is. The alloy Motive adaptor looks nice, but I can't find an AU supplier. I

Wondering if anyone has made or bought a brake pressure bleeding setup for an R33 GTST master cylinder. I need to pressure bleed the brakes in my wife's euro, so I've made up a pressure bleeder using a weed sprayer from bunnings, a Volvo master cylinder cap from the wreckers (don't have a Volvo, but most euros seem to use the same screw-on MC cap), a pressure gauge, and a few brass 1/4 BSP fittings. It fits and seals on the euro cars I have - haven't actuall bled the brakes yet but no reason why it won't work. While I was at the wreckers I also bought a Nissan MC cap - the 3 tab, 1/4 turn style - and made up an attachment to use it on the same bleeder. I can't get it to seal onto the master cylinder - as soon as I pressurise the line it leaks like a sieve from where the cap seals to the outer lip of the M/C. I tried a couple of different seals, but still the same. I haven't been able to find an off-the-shelf cap to suit a pressure bleeder either. Anyone done this with one of these M/C's? Anyone know of an afermarket cap or seal that would work better. Geoff

And the small matter of moving the steering wheel to the other side....

I'm fairly sure this bush is a common issue on V35s - I replaced them on my 350GT back in the day. You can get aftermarket ones from Superpro & other brands. Superpro list a SPF3298K as the Front Control Arm Lower Inner Bush, and they are $120 or so on Ebay (for a set that will do both sides). You probably need access to a press to remove the old one & fit the new one (or some patience), other than that it isn't a hard job. You would need a wheel alignment after replacing it. Obviously check the other bushes while you are under there.

It's pretty easy really - remove engine, dismantle everything, measure / test everything, repair or replace everything that needs it, put it back together (assembly is a reverse of the disassembly process), and put back in the car. Seriously, as Callan said, if you need a guide you should consider if this is a job for you. Have you read the Nissan engine manual? There is a PDF version floating around the internet, which covers most of what you'd need to know.

He means that the RB30 block is taller than the RB25 block - around 30 - 35mm from memory. You need to lower the engine (by cutting or getting smaller engine mounts, allow it to sit closer to the bonnet (and probably remove the strut brace if you have one), or a combination of the 2. We've done it with a track car, and it is fantastic. The extra ltorque low down is a real bonus. You haven't mentioned what's been done to your RB25, but you would probably need a tuneable ECU to get the most out of an RB25/30. Cost - how long is a piece of string. It will depend on what else you do at the same tiem - rebuild the RB30 bottom end, provide for better oil control, rebuild the head, modify the head to enable VCT, upgrade the ECU, upgrade the turbo, upgrade the fuel system. Pick a number that you want to spend & triple it.

What is the VIN?

I can't remember where I got those from, but used them to rewire the fuel pump in my R33 GTST track car. I think pin 2 is 12V through the ignition switch - so live when the key is on or start - and the ECU switches pin 1 to earth to run the pump. A couple of minutes with a test light would confirm this.

Does this help?

I believe that the NT01 is pretty much the same as an R888, with a different tread pattern. The current Toyo is an R888R, which I think is slightly different again from the R888. We've got NT01's on the rear of our track car, and R888R's on the front. Changing the fronts from NT01's to R888R's seemed to give an improvement in front end grip, but it's hrd to say for sure geiven the time between outings. Will be putting R888R's on the back when the NT01's are dead, and I'm thinking that will make a bigger difference than the fronts as rear end grip is always an issue.

Yes - I do

In life Nissan > Commodore