GeeDog

Removing the old ball joints is the hardest part - the rest is easy. You can use a press, but you'll have to remove the wheel hubs. I did it on the car, using a ball joint remover that I had in my toolbox. It wasn't the best tool for the job - there are much better removers available - but it worked. The whole job took around 3 hours, most of which was removing the bj's.

It's a track car - hasn't been on the road for years. The purple will be covered in crap before too long anyway.

Pedal feels great, as does front/rear bias. No idea what MC it is, but it's the stock one.

Not sure if that was directed at me. If it was ever driven on the road, I think the mods to the rear steering would be the least of my worries when pulled over - they'd probably be more interested in the slicks, roll cage, brakes, engine, exhaust, seats, seat belts ... the list goes on.

We have the ATTKD 8 pot 350mm (or is it 355?) front brakes on a stock master cylinder, on a series 2 R33 GTST (with ABS) track car & they work fine . Rear brakes are stock. No idea how that relates to a series 1 though. We bought the "race pads" from Just Jap with the brake kit, and got about 12 months out of them. Replaced pads recently with some Project Mu but can't remember the model.

Jack up the rear end, so the wheels are off the ground. Hold one rear wheel at the 3 & 9 o'clock positions, and try and move it. If there is free play (ie you can make the wheel "steer"), get someone to move the wheel while you look & feel for where the play is. It is likely in the outer ball joints (where the Hicas tie-rods / steering arms join the wheel hub), but may also be in the inner tie-rod end - the joint inside the rubber boot where the tie-rods come out of the Hicas rack. I've just fixed this on my R33 by replacing the Hicas lock bar & tie-rods / ball joints with a Hicas eliminator kit. You have the Hicas rack rather than the lock bar, but the same tie-rods & ball joints. Old Hicas lock bar with tie-rods The remains of the old ball joints Eliminator kit installed

What are you going to use the car for?

GVM? GCM includes the weight of the tow car, trailer & load

It's brake (not break). And you can leave the rear as is, other than the redstuff pads - they won't last long on a track. If you are going fast enough to need bigger front brakes, you'll melt the redstuff pads in a lap or 2 - they are a street pad. If you like EBC pads try yellowstuff, or hit up Johnny on here (Dose Pipe Sutututu) for some Intima pads.

Normal hose clamp I think - probably what you call a jubilee clip. It's been a long time since I changed mine.

If it's the same braided line as for an R33 RB25DET, the new line has a barbed fitting at the engine end. This barbed fitting goes into the factory rubber hose behind the head, where the stock hard line connects. You'll have fun getting it connected with the engine in the car. Have a look at the left-hand line in this kit - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Oil-Water-Line-Kit-Nissan-RB20DET-RB25DET-w-Garrett-T3-16mm-Water-bolt/292146127991?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D38d957ab31cb40328fd6b7f2e22bf0bc%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D19%26sd%3D263026535321&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

The blue hose on the actuator is the on the nipple you are looking for - you just need to route it from the boost source (the turbo housing or the original source nipple, depending on what you do with the intake pipe) through your boost controller and back on to the actuator. Re the ebay silicone intake pipe - I'm not convinced this won't also suck shut. I've got an alloy one that came from ebay, but I don't think they are available anymore. I'd contact Scotty's Customs - he makes a very nice metal replacement.

Where did you find this carby?

Our car is also doing "double duty" at the track - 1 driver goes out for a session, comes in, less than 10 minutes later the second driver goes out. It's also Malalla, which is hard on brakes.

We ran this until earlier this year as well. Changed to RBF600 after cooking the Nulon at the track, then changed to RBF660 when we needed new fluid. Haven't had issues with either of the Motuls to date.

RBF660

Or through a boost controller if you are running one. BTW - plum is a fruit. Plumb is to do with plumbing, piping etc.

Sold

2009 Ford FG G6E Turbo $12,000 2009 Ford G6E Turbo sedan, white with cream leather interior - $12,000 Mechanically in very good condition, runs and drives very well. Has a couple of minor paint marks, but is straight & presents very well. This is the (at the time) top of the line luxury model from Ford, and is fitted with the brilliant combination of a 4 litre turbo-charged Barra inline 6 cylinder motor and the ZF 6 speed auto - exactly the same combination as used in the XR6 Turbo. Motor output is 270KW, and the power & torque delivery has to be felt to be appreciated. This is a luxury sedan, with performance that many "sports" cars could only dream of. It has 19" factory option alloy rims fitted with 245/35/19 Khumo KU39 tyres - the rears were only fitted last week, the fronts have around 10,000 km on them & plenty of life left. Brakes are good, battery was replaced around 18 months ago, wheel alignment done in March this year (6,000 km ago), Bilstein shocks fitted all around 3 years / 60,000km ago, auto trans serviced with genuine fluid approx 18 months ago, engine always serviced with Castrol Edge full synthetic oil, brake fluid, cooland and diff oil changed recently, aircon works perfectly, fitted with factory Sat-Nav, leather upholstery in good condition (drivers seat showing a small amount of wear), floor mats installed, Earl's turbo oil filter & braided lines installed. Everything works as it should. Anything that has needed replacing has been replaced, mostly with new genuine Ford parts - this includes common failures in this model like the brake switch, wiper motor & glovebox lid. Being a G6E Turbo model, the car has multiple luxury refinements This includes leather seats, electric driver's seat with memory, memory external mirrors with auto-dipping passenger's mirror when reversing, sta-nav, cruise control, climate control aircon, bluetooth integration, remote central locking, flip keys, reverse camera, front & rear parking sensors. It is fitted with a 2300kg heavy duty towbar, and includes the tongue & tow-ball. The car comes with books & 2 fully workjing keys. There are a few not-so-good points - some minor paint blemishes, slight wear on driver's seat, driver's seat lumbar adjuster shaft broken (but can still adjust lumbar setting to suit), a few minor marks on rims, aircon compressor is a bit noisy from outside car (or sitting in a drive-through etc) - it's been like this since I owned the car, but the aircon works perfectly. The low asking price refelects these issues already. I can supply a tax invoice if requested - if you are purchasing for a GST registered business you can claim the GST portion back. Pictures are at https://1drv.ms/f/s!AivKjyDYgh0ynSLtBwx4P7GBCeDP

Is that a fibre washer in the "before" picture?

No, but we did one earlier this year so I've got a fairly good handle on what's needed. We used a stock bottom end (found an RB30 bottom end that had never been run). It's the little things that you'll need to sort out: - the oil feed for the VCT (the machine shop we use has done quite a few 25/30's & knows what's needed), -what you do with the cold start crap and associated hoses (we removed pretty much all of it, and don't regret it), -coolant lines on the intake side (once again we got rid of some), -the oil drain / breather on the front exhaust side (RB30 block doesn't have the port for this), -engine mounts / raising the bonnet (we kept the mounts stock, and raised the rear of the bonnet with some spacers under the hinges - also had to ditch the strut tower brace. Didn't want to lower the mounts as we have an extended sump, and didn't want it to be the lowest part of the car), -the dump pipe (had to cut & extend ours, as turbo was now 40mm higher), -you'll probably need a new RB30 water pump (the RB25 one has a slotted hole, which doesn't quite cover the water channel in the block - ask me how I know), -the intake piping (once again because the top of our engine was higher, we needed longer intake pipe silicone joiners on the intake pipes, just above the exhaust manifold. Had to buy a 1 metre length as we couldn't find the right size in smaller lengths), -you will need to buy a second timing belt tensioner & a longer timing belt -intake side wiring - we had to make up some extended loom mounts because the head was now higher. I can't think of anything else at the moment. If you want the machine shop's contact details let me know - he's in Pooraka. We are loving the engine - the torque delivery is beautiful.

Is this a metal head gasket? If not, what gasket kit is it, and why do you need this as well as the "Nissan Gasket Kit"? I wouldn't bother with the RP Rod Bolts at the power level you are after either.

I've got an RB25DET crankshaft - My ad I've also got an RB25DET block, with some scratches in some cylinders. I don't know if it needs to be rebored, or if a hone would be enough. I also have a set of forged pistons (also with some scratches around the crown) and stock RB25DET rods. Other than the scratched cylinders the block was recently cleaned (in whatever engine builders put blocks in to soak), decked, and had the oil returns enlarged. They are in Adelaide though. I would do a deal on the lot. Let me know if you want any pics. Note that all bits are from a series 2 RB25DET, from a 1996 R33 GTST.

16 Foot Car Trailer for sale We are selling our 16 foot / 4.8 metre car trailer. This has been used to transport our R33 track car to & from events for the last 3 years or so. The trailer bed is 4.8 x 1.95 metres, and it has a beaver tail for easy loading. The GVM weight rating is 1990kg, and it is a tandem trailer. It has cable operated disk brakes on the front axle. It includes a swing-away jockey wheel, a mount for a second jockey wheel (we used this to attach a Maco Mule wheel), a 3 speed cable winch, a spare tyre, and plenty of tie-down points. It is painted black, and the condition of the paint is very good. It has been stored under cover since we bought it, and we have touched up any areas needed regularly. Ramps are approx 1.9m long. The trailer bed is long enough to allow the car to be moved backwards & forwards, to adjust the towbar weight as required. The lights are LED, and the trailer has a 7 pin flat plug. Photos will be added tomorrow. Price is $3000 - firm at this stage.

No, the rubber pipe from the AFM to the turbo - if you still have the stock one it will suck closed at the boost level you need to get over 250RWKW.