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thanks for the help mate!! i haev a couple mates that were mechanice(apprectices but they r fair good with their stuff) and yeah the 3 of them came up with bottom end of gungen pins...so looks like im afta a full rebuild as well!! mmm, oh well atleast it will b running really nice when its done and i will b able to continue with my misson of a fast gtr!

thats for all the help guys, much appreciate it! next job to shop around and see if what kinda prices workshops(in adelaide) will do the rebyild for. and prices for lets say stronger inturnals.

  • 5 weeks later...
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well i started my engine today as i hadnt started it in 2-3 weeks, started fine, no noise or anything. just like normal. ran the car at idol until it had heated up to operating temp. noticed it was puffing out a bit of white smoke, put my hand over the exhaust and got a bit of a fuel small and a bit of moisture on my hand. then gave it a bit of a rev to see if there was any noise, none there at all.

let it sit for a bit longer. came back and gave it a longer rev up, holding it at 4-4500rpm(point where load starts) and yet still with no knocking at all. i was thinking what the...

then i let my foot off the accelerator and the revs drop to the point where it almost stalled/died but managed not to. and i noticed a smell i hadnt smelt before.

turned the car off and started to check a few things and i noticed under my radiator cap that there was muck or oil around it!

could any of these things be the cause of the knocking i originally got? why didnt it knock today? im a bit confused now. will this cost me even more to fix now?

any help much appreciated guys, thanks!! James

well i started my engine today as i hadnt started it in 2-3 weeks, started fine, no noise or anything. just like normal. ran the car at idol until it had heated up to operating temp. noticed it was puffing out a bit of white smoke, put my hand over the exhaust and got a bit of a fuel small and a bit of moisture on my hand. then gave it a bit of a rev to see if there was any noise, none there at all.

let it sit for a bit longer. came back and gave it a longer rev up, holding it at 4-4500rpm(point where load starts) and yet still with no knocking at all. i was thinking what the...

then i let my foot off the accelerator and the revs drop to the point where it almost stalled/died but managed not to. and i noticed a smell i hadnt smelt before.

turned the car off and started to check a few things and i noticed under my radiator cap that there was muck or oil around it!

could any of these things be the cause of the knocking i originally got? why didnt it knock today? im a bit confused now. will this cost me even more to fix now?

any help much appreciated guys, thanks!!   James

Oil in your radiator generally means you have done the head gasket. White smoke coming out the exhaust is steam and ensures that is whats wrong. That smell is steam and coolant. You will now have water in your oil as well....

My advice is don't drive it at all. I would suspect that the bearings have now done the headgasket from vibration. That vibration I suspect is the crankshaft not spinning square. If you drive it with screwed bearings then you will end up having to replace the crank and I think they are pretty expensive for GTR's. Also with the crank not running square you could score the bore badly enough that you need a new block.... Thats not cheap either.

Take it to an expert as soon as you can is what I would do.

Edited by nfi

As above, engine sounds stuffed (well head gasket at least, id say bearings are probably spinning too from the knocking noise you mentioned earlier).

Take it to a mechanic and get the thing stripped before you keep jacking up the cost of the rebuild.

at the moment im just tryiing to source parts for my rebuild.

i was told to look under the oil cap to see if has gone an a milky(iced coffee) colour as i have been told that is a sign that water is in the oil but i did that and it looks normal...i dunno, a rebuild should fix ot all, well i hope anyway!!

cheers for the help so far guys.

Edited by Turbz_13
  • 2 weeks later...

i did a really silly thing on the weekend, i took my car out on a cruz. and i was really worried that sometihng bad would happen. the car was warm and stuff. the kinda of conditions it liked to start to knock. i ended up followiing the cruz and i was hitting boost a bit thro the day and nothing, no noise at all????? it was running fine! im really confussed now about what the problem is!

Guest Mashrock

Stop turning the car on.

get the engine out and inspected..

then work out what your going to need, as a decent gtr crank is hard to come by and you'll no doubt have to order it from nissan. and they wuill get it from japan.

oil in your radiator is definatley not a good thing. as it will be going the other way around aswell. you'll end up spending more and more the more you turn it on.

if there was a problem to begin with. it has definatley not fixed itself.

get someone who knows their stuff to check it out, and go from there.

but i wouldnt be turning it on ever again untill your sure of the problem

i did a really silly thing on the weekend, i took my car out on a cruz. and i was really worried that sometihng bad would happen. the car was warm and stuff. the kinda of conditions it liked to start to knock. i ended up followiing the cruz and i was hitting boost a bit thro the day and nothing, no noise at all????? it was running fine! im really confussed now about what the problem is!

No offence mate, but why ask for help if you don't listen to any of the advice?

As Mashrock said (well, pretty much everyone in the thread), stop turning the car on. Find a reputable workshop in your area with experience with Skylines, get the car towed, and have it inspected. Its not going to cost you all that much for them to give it the once over. If its something minor you have peace of mind and can move on. If it is a big end and the crank is out of whack, you're potentially saving yourself thousands if its not already too late. If it is the latter and you keep going its going to end in tears.

it is quiet possible that the noise i did hear was nothing to do with the bottom end as i have spoken to a mechanic. he didnt get to hear as i would have had to of driven my car 100km+ to the work shop.

1 that i have been told is that i have the wrong oil in the car and it is becoming to thin or think and cauing it to knock

gday all, im knew to this forum and am a bit of a noob when it comes to jap cars, ne way, after reading this thread i keep asking my self, why dont u guys go with rebuilt rb30 bottom ends? i mean, your pulling your motor out to rebuidl it ne way, so y not go the extra cubes, as i said im a bit of a noob, so if theres a reason as to y u dont do this, i would like to know, cheers...

gday all, im knew to this forum and am a bit of a noob when it comes to jap cars, ne way, after reading this thread i keep asking my self, why dont u guys go with rebuilt rb30 bottom ends? i mean, your pulling your motor out to rebuidl it ne way, so y not go the extra cubes, as i said im a bit of a noob, so if theres a reason as to y u dont do this, i would like to know, cheers...

its not as simple as just slapping it on.

it is quiet possible that the noise i did hear was nothing to do with the bottom end as i have spoken to a mechanic. he didnt get to hear as i would have had to of driven my car 100km+ to the work shop.

1 that i have been told is that i have the wrong oil in the car and it is becoming to thin or think and cauing it to knock

So, in other words, you have a mechanic making guesses. Don't know about you, but I would want more than just a guess based on a rough description. Again, why not just save yourself the possible expense of a completely rooted engine and just tow it to a mechanic that is experienced with the Skylines?

If its because you want to save money.... well you bought the wrong car if you're worried about the cost of a tow or trailer hire. :D

i am quiet happy to have to replace the inturnals if i have to and to spend 10-15k on it. but

i cannot afford to drive the car 100km+ to have it checked out then 100km+ back home....that would mean taking time off work. over the next couple months that i goin to b hard as the boss has to go away and ill b having to run things. the hours i work doesnt allow me anytime before of after work to take it in. im just depending on a friend that is an apprentice(he will most likely be wrong in his choice) at a performance place to give me some idea.

i also need to have an exempt from compliance done for the car, so while it seems to b ok to me, im goin to tr and get it through then put it off the road manybe drop the engine and strip it

Edited by Turbz_13
wats involed in the conversion that makes it difficult? like i said im a noob with jap cars and i want to learn more about them b4 i buy one, cheers... :D

The extra torque is hard on the rest of the car, the 30's won't rev as high usually, but they are still a good option, its all about what you want.... bit more stuffing around and more cost with doing a 30 as well.

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