Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i am quiet happy to have to replace the inturnals if i have to and to spend 10-15k on it. but

i cannot afford to drive the car 100km+ to have it checked out then 100km+ back home....that would mean taking time off work.

mate on the one hand you say you can spend 10-15K on a rebuild, yet you cant 'afford' to drive it 100kms? or tow it? weird.

read the bold!

read the bold!

thanks for that advice. i read what he wrote. perhaps the 60 seconds or so requried to call a tow truck could be squeezed into his high powered schedule?

anyway, none of it makes sense to me. you've got $15K for a rebuil but wont spend $300 to get it to the workshop to find out if it's ok or not? or even better find a closer shop (if there is one).

not bottom end...still a noise but made somewhere else.

a bottom end is consistant, this seems not too be consistant, as when i was driving i got 60-70kms without any noise, then all of a sudden it started, pulled over and my speed dropped then it went normal for a few seconds. decided to pull over so i pulled called my friend and was thinking to myself"oh no" left it for a bit until my mate got there started it up and it had stopped, then went got a drink came back started it and the noise just started again. went up the road to friends house. check a few things. start ity again no noise...leave it for a while longer then decide to head home. started the car and it was there again, driving back it cut in and out 2 or three times(cutting back to normal)

i have a good idea what it is...not goin to cost anywhere near 10k

Edited by Turbz_13
not bottom end...still a noise but made somewhere else.

Im going for bottom end... it just isnt too bad yet :) Theres a thread on here recently of someone whos car was driven with a stuffed bearing, check it out. Specifically looks at the pictures for the end result ;)

My oldschool R31 with a redtop rb20 in it had a similar problem only slightly more advanced.

If you held the revs at about 2.5k you would get a metallic banging (not quite as deep as knocking noise) anyway it was consistant and definately bearings. When the motor was reved out (shit motor didnt care if it exploded) sometimes it would make the noise others it wouldnt. Car was also really down on power sometimes others fine.

But the noise is exactly the same as you describe it. SERIOUSLY STOP f**kING DRIVING IT!

Change your oil filter and pour the oil out on some paper in the sun and I bet you will see silver sparkles from the shagged bearings in it. If you insist on driving it put some thicker oil in it.

i found out exactly what it is now

to day i took the coil cover off(when the car was runn ing normally again) what it was running and i removed a lead that connected to the 1st coil pack and walla!! started to run like shit. huff and puffing, vibrating! sitting in the car it almost sounds like a knock but out side of the car it sounds like a WRX...so i having problems with coil pack or the wirinig somewhere.

very similar to the discription on a bottom end going! trick me and a few otha people.

from the start the noise i discribe was a more of a muffled knocking...like wood on metal, not really metallic.

i found out exactly what it is now

to day i took the coil cover off(when the car was runn ing normally again) what it was running and i removed a lead that connected to the 1st coil pack and walla!! started to run like shit. huff and puffing, vibrating! sitting in the car it almost sounds like a knock but out side of the car it sounds like a WRX...so i having problems with coil pack or the wirinig somewhere.

very similar to the discription on a bottom end going! trick me and a few otha people.

from the start the noise i discribe was a more of a muffled knocking...like wood on metal, not really metallic.

Of course if you remove the electricity supply from the coil pack its not going to run properly, it means one cylinder isnt firing.

If you think thats it, when the car is running like crap disconnect coil packs one at a time. If when you disconnect each one the car runs worse, its nothing to do with ignition. If you disconnect one and theres no change in the car, then thats your problem.

dropped and checked the oil 2day...as 1 of u guys said. and checked NO metallic at all!!! check it rather thorough. i had 2 other people checking as well, 1 was a desiel mechanic. and we couldnt see any metallic at all!! thats seems like a good thing to me!!!

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...