Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

but he used a Gates timing belt and no note of replacing the idler bolt!!!

And?

The idler bolt isn't a torque to yield bolt, why would it need to be replaced unless there was something wrong with it? I've done 30 or more RB's and never replaced one?

What is the problem with a gates belt? Is it that it's not called a "High Tuned Hyper Super Ultra belt for timing situations" and costs $350 more? They are stronger than a standard Nissan belt and they are also a pretty blue colour so they look fully sick with your anodised cam gears when you leave the cover off.

ok one quick question.. n1 water pump flows more or less than standard?

N1 has less vanes than a standard water pump, plus has an anti-cavitation plate. It's designed for an engine that spends most of it's time at high rpm....ie a race engine.

The standard pump will flow more at any given rpm, which is why it is best used on the vast majority of street driven cars.

  • 1 year later...

I dont see how you guys are factoring 1000-1500 for pulling out the engine. Its simply rediculous.

The last one i did in a garage (no hoist) and a shitty hire crane we had the engine ready to be removed in under an hour. It took another 15 mins to get the thing out as it was a little bit of a mission angle wise.

Im getting my block and head rebuilt next week so will be able to add in some other prices but i think some of the comments here are pretty rediculous. Just because its an expensive job doesnt mean its any good.

Parts so far anyway (most were on a discount admittedly)

Bearings (acl race) + head rebuild kit incl tensioners 627.00

Cambelt 50.00

Crank collar 120.00

Water pump (rb30) 27.00

Restrictor 15.00

Bearings (pistons are near new) 247.00

I cant see how even if i get forged pistons & rods (2500 ono) and a Jun pump (600) its going to cost another 7k to rebuild the engine?

Edited by SirRacer

Sorry mate, was doing a search on some information i was after and didnt realise how old it was.

The engine is in a cefiro so there is a little bit more room, but yeah it was relatively easy. The hardest part was getting some of the loom clips unattached. We have done quite a number now so they are getting easy.

Say a shop is charging 95 per hour, its effectively taking 10 hours to remove the thing when someone whos very average with a spanner set (i work in a bank) is doing it in way less.

i agree with duncan. i except i will pay you two hours labour just to do it.

i am looking to have my motor pulled out now to sort the oil control issue out. just slowly putting money aside as i want to do it all at once and a set off cam's with a mild port and polish while the heads off.

not gonna be cheap.

I'm getting my R32 GTR engine rebuilt atm in it has cost more than I sold my other R32 GTR for - and that was a good car in good nick that I got a fair price for. And the car still isn't ready!!!!

People commenting in this thread for a rebuild for less than $10k. I wish.

perfecting timing of this thread making a return, as i beleive ill be needing a rebuild.

engine is on its way out (hopfully tonight) so i can bust it open and see what the knocking noise is.........

worse case would be a full rebuild, which i plan on doing using all stock parts (or after market if prices are close) not looking at making huge power, i just want an engine that will last daily driving.

steve

10k is not too bad...! Thats if its done properly,machined to good tolerances etc.Many builders take many shortcuts.I would go the external oil pump even over the N1. Yes N1 is a better design but it still isnt flawless. If ya think 10 k is pricey..jump on to Tomei's webpage and see how much they sell crate motors for...Ridiculous...you can buy a neat GTR for the same money

I think someone has to define: Rebuild.. Many of the rb26 parts won't need replacing if you only wana run a few hundred kw's and if you just want it rebuilt so you can drive it same story... but a rebuild for 10k i'd be expecting to see performance improvements over stock and a 15k one i'd want to see 500kw reliably :P:D

My first gtr had the engine built, drive in drive out $9000

CP forged pistons/rings

Eagle H-beam rods

ARP rod bolts

Tomei sump baffles

Tomei metal head gasket

Reco stock head

acl race series bearings

N1 oil pump

Gates Racing tming belt

Extreme clutch

machining, paint, reassemble and install

This was by Boostworx in SA.

Edited by fieds83
My first gtr had the engine built, drive in drive out $9000

What was the rate for labour and did you supply the parts or did Boostworx supply them for you?

Edited by benm
What was the rate for labour and did you supply the parts or did Boostworx supply them for you?

That was drive in drive out, they sourced the kit from Hi Octane Racing. Boostworx are very well organised, efficient and easy to deal with.

Sorry i passed the recipts on to the new owner so i am unsure of exact amount for labour.

Give Shaun a call he will be able to give a reasonably accurate estimate. There were no nasty surprises in regards to price.

Edited by fieds83

That's fair enough, what I was getting at is many people do a "drive in drive out" and get the mechanic to organise the parts. You only have to look at difference in parts pricing between your local supplier and that of say Nengun and you could save anything up to 50% just in parts alone.

Then you have labour charges, take your car to an import mechanic that eats and breathes skylines or take it to your local mechanic that you have known and trusted for 10yrs that also knows your engine and you could save another 50% just in labour charges. A good example of this is tuning costs around Sydney between the internationally recognised tuners vs the small time mechanic tuners.

That's fair enough, what I was getting at is many people do a "drive in drive out" and get the mechanic to organise the parts. You only have to look at difference in parts pricing between your local supplier and that of say Nengun and you could save anything up to 50% just in parts alone.

Then you have labour charges, take your car to an import mechanic that eats and breathes skylines or take it to your local mechanic that you have known and trusted for 10yrs that also knows your engine and you could save another 50% just in labour charges. A good example of this is tuning costs around Sydney between the internationally recognised tuners vs the small time mechanic tuners.

Totally agree that experience is the key, the only drama with Nengun and the like is the timeframe. Hi Octane had the kit ready to go and i did not have to worry about getting slugged unexpected import duties etc

I am sure it probably could have been done cheaper in regards to parts though i bought it like this and its not necessarily the approach i would have taken. Personally, not being in a hurry i would have shopped around for the best prices though most shops go with what they have direct access to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...