Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just curious as to know what people have actually experienced with the KKR turbos that HPI are advertising on behalf of Otomoto? I have read somewhere that Otomoto is run by Ben Ellis the editor of HPI so they may be a bit biased towards the outcome, if this info is true. Either way i like their price of around $900 new so i thought id throw it out there to see what people may know.

Basically i want to know as i may need to replace the trubo in my car (R32 Gts-t) as i think it blew up on me yesterday. Cars blowing some black smoke and runs like an absolute dog on boost. Splutters and stalls, wont hold boost and idles badly.

Anyway if i do need a replacement i was thinking of buying new instead of the usual second hand R32 or R33 turbos, but without going over the top and buying a turbo that would require other replacemnt parts such as fuel pump etc. Cant afford to do all that just yet!!

Anyway any help would be appreicated,

Cheers

Laine

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ive never used these turbos but the testing they did on them in HPI netted them over 250rwkw on their RB24 (And it also took quite a bit of mucking around to make it fit) So you would need new fuel pump ect..For ease of fitting and just having a nice mild upgrade I would choose an RB25 turbo

Basically i want to know as i may need to replace the trubo in my car (R32 Gts-t) as i think it blew up on me yesterday. Cars blowing some black smoke and runs like an absolute dog on boost. Splutters and stalls, wont hold boost and idles badly.

Sounds like a boost leak of some sort. check your intercooler piping before buying a new turbo.

Sounds like a boost leak of some sort. check your intercooler piping before buying a new turbo.

Yeh im about to go and check all the pipes and make sure they are tight enough. General inspection didnt find anything though.

Just checked the pipes and found the culprit. Stupid hose clamp was loose and the rubber sleeve connecting the pipes needed to be moved to make the pipes sit better and let the clamp actually clamp!

Still interested in the KKR turbos though cause my turbo is on its way out. (Overboosted in Japan before getting it here)

Cheers

hear is something they sent me when i emailed them

Hello Scott,

The KKR-480 is $899. We also have a dump pipe available to suit the RB25 for $149 (suits standard or aftermarket front pipes).

To fit it on an RB25 you need to rotate the compressor housing and actuator to point the right way. The actuator rod also needs to be bent and adjusted to suit, while the compressor housing needs around 2mm ground off at one point, where it is too close to the exhaust manifold. You will also need a different bolt for the oil feed and a 2.75-inch V-band clamp. We have a mobile mechanic in Sydney who does the complete installation for $520 including the clamp.

We recently fitted the KKR-480 to an RB24, which made 256kW at the wheels on 1.35bar boost.

Here are some more specifications:

KKR480

T3 twin-port type flange (will suit normal T3 flange also)

Oil-cooled, large turbine housing (around 1.1)

Approx 480hp

Compressor side (similar sizing to smallest HKS GT3037)

Compressor inlet pipe 70mm

Compressor outlet pipe 50mm

Compressor wheel inner diameter 53mm

Compressor wheel outer diameter 76.5mm

12 blades, six 22mm high, six 16mm high

Turbine side

25mm flap-type internal wastegate

71/79mm V-band flange (inner outlet diameter 63.5mm)

Turbine wheel inner diameter 56mm (similar to HKS 2835R)

Turbine wheel outer diameter 73mm (similar to HKS T04R)

10 blades, 28.5mm high at tips

Ben Ellis

OTOMOTO Pty Ltd

45 Mary Pde Rydalmere NSW 2116

Ph. (02) 9898 1655

Fx. (02) 9898 1254

www.otomoto.com.au

but it does sound good im thinking of gettinf one of these

they have a years warenty so thats a good start

you'll find, just like garrett when they have a "warranty" on thier turbos... that its almost impossible to get one replaced under warranty.

i tried with my GT30 when it died due to a faulty cartridge and a bearing letting go. Garrett just told me it was oil starvation and would replace it.

Funny how the new GT30 ran for 8 months after that with no problems <_<

MADE IN CHINA....................................................

BUY A GARRETT AND SAVE YOUR POCKET IN THE LONG RUN..

AND THEY ARE f**kEN LAGGY!

Every thing I have heard about them indicates that they are quite responsive!

no one has a pic of one installed..... coz looking at the HPi install pics ...i couldnt quite see how the internal gate goes back into the exhaust?

coz they say they used the dump pipe they have to suit on the install.

Yeh ive been hearing a bit of both in regards to the response of them. I have heard they can be a bit laggy but as yet no one can actualy confirm. Some people have said they go alright so i guess anyone out there who has ACTUALLY seen one installed and seen how it goes, help us!!

Cheers for the info scott, i think most of that came through in the latet HPI too so im interested to see the final results of that install after its been tuned.

Regards

Laine

I was pretty interested in these turbos as well, saw that article in HPI. $900 seems to be pretty good to me if it's a winner. From memory they had to make some slight modifications to the wastegate; they had to bend/shift it on an angle, and they also had to file off a bit of the outside. Will wait and see.

"I eated the purple berries.... they taste like burning!"

Yeh they are laggy.. the internal wastegate gasses muffle the rear wheel and come out of a 2.25" exhaust which is just as big as the rear wheel gasses, then what about the wastegate gasses????

hence......... LAG. BIG CRAP. LAG SHIT TURBOS MADE IN CHINA

they cost 140$USD to import straight from chinese manufactorer.

CRAP!

Yeh they are laggy.. the internal wastegate gasses muffle the rear wheel and come out of a 2.25" exhaust which is just as big as the rear wheel gasses, then what about the wastegate gasses????

and how big do you think your average int gated turbo's turbine housing outlet is?

:D;)

Do you even know what your talking about?

Certainly doesnt seem like it from any of your posts which have nothing thats actually factual

Can anyone say CHINA?

Oh also..

THERE IS NO DUMP FOR THE Wastegate flap like Garret and EVERY OTHHER BLOODY TURBO.

These are the specs of the KKR 480 from the manufactorer :)

KKR480

Compressor wheel Turbine wheel A/R

Inducer:76.2

Exducer:52.8 Inducer:65.2

Exducer:48 0.58

Mazda RX7/Nissan RB25

_____________

I like tocall these Crap Crap 480Lag HP

post-25684-1137404164.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...