Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy yawl ,

quick question.

Have put the 26/30 into my R32 GTR and it does not look right seems to be sitting to high .

Do i use the rb 26 r32 engine mounts ( rubber) and the engine mounts aluminium and not a differant combo ?

Your advice appreciated.

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102075-2630-into-r32-gtr-engine-mounts/
Share on other sites

Also would like to know a solution to this problem, i did the RB30DET conversion into a R32 GTS and could easilly modify the engine mounts as they are steel, but the GTS4 i have has the same Aluminium mounts as a GTR, doesnt look like they can be modded easily or at all.

Check the clearance between the sump and the crossmember that will tell you if you can lower the engine by modifying the mounts, you should have between 15-20mm clearance. I will be using solid mounts from Zennith Tunning which should allow me to sit the engine 5mm off the crossmember.

When I was in Melbourne I spoke to AVO about this conversion and they apparently slot the engine mounts to allow the engine to sit a little lower. I think it still comes close to touching the bonnet though.

Cheers, Dror

So are the standard GTR mounts solid aluminium? ie; they dont use rubber mounts connected to a solid mount like the gtst ones??

If so, the vibration and noise thru the car body would be increased due to the solid mount wouldnt it?

GTR mounts are very similar to the gts-t ones, another option is to elongate the holes which bolt to the block on the mount allowing the engine to sit lower, the solid mounts are an aftermarket thing which i will be using in my car, yes the engine will vibrate more through the car but will also transfer more power as the engine will not twist on the mounts causing a loss of power/response.

Hi.

I have a gts-4

For future reference, aside from engine mounts (slotting, replacing), is there much that can be done?

As in, pump the bonnet & get a vent cut?

(I know I'm dreaming - but I'm already half way there...)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...