Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I’m currently looking at importing a S1 or S2 R33 4 door 5sp GTS25T Type M, and am looking for some information. I have been searching for specs etc. on the vehicles, but am not having much luck. I have tried searching the forums, but could not find what I was after either.

Now I’d definitely be looking for a 5sp, and the questions I have are:

1. Is the box the same for the 4 door as the 2 door?

2. Is the diff gearing is in the sedan different to the coupe, as I have seen 1/4 times quoted about 1 sec slower, yet it only weighs 20kg more?

3. Do they come with the same 4 piston front and 2 piston rear brakes as the coupe?

4. How much have people paid for their 4 doors from japan?

Thanks for the help

:wavey: :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102120-r33-four-door-specs/
Share on other sites

This is all i can find but dont know how accurate it is

GENERAL

Body type Sedan

Drive FR

Transmission 5 speed manual

Displacement, cc 2498

Frame E-ECR33

Price of new car, thousands yen (Tokyo area) 3070 (~$25500)

SPECIFICATION (SPECS)

EXTERIOR

Exterior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 4720 x 1720 x 1360

Interior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 1895 x 1425 x 1115

Wheel base, mm 2720

Treads (F/R), mm 1480 / 1470

Ground clearance, mm 145

Curb vehicle weight, kg 1390

Gross vehicle weight, kg

Seating capacity, persons 5

Doors number 4

Min.turning radius, m 5.2

Fuel tank capacity, l 65

ENGINE

Displacement, cc 2498

Engine model RB25DET

Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 250 ps (183.88 kw) / 6400 rpm

Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 30.0 kg*m (294.20 N*m) / 4800 rpm

Power density 5.56

Engine type Water cooling serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve turbo

Engine information

Fuel system NISSAN EGI [ ECCS ] electronic gasoline injection

Turbocharger Turbo

Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline

LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No

Compression ratio 9

Bore, mm 86

Stroke, mm 71.7

Final gear ratio

Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 9.8

Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km

CHASSIS / TRANSMISSION

Power steering Yes

Tires size, front 205/55r16 89v

Tires size rear 205/55R16 89V

Braking system, front Ventilated disk

Braking system, rear Ventilated disk

Suspension system, front Independent suspension multiple link type

Suspension system, rear Independent suspension multiple link type

EQUIPMENT

EXTERIOR EQUIPMENT

Sunroof / Moonroof

Front fog lamp

Rear fog lamp

Xenon headlight (Discharge lamp)

Projector headlight

Rear wiper

Front spoiler

Rear or roof spoiler

ABS (Antilock brake system)

TCS (Traction control system)

LSD (Limited slip differential)

Privacy glass

UV cutting glass

Aluminium wheel 16inch standard

INTERIOR EQUIPMENT

Air conditioner Full automatic

Wood panel

Cruise control

Centralized door lock

Power window

Steering wheel telescopic

Steering wheel tilt

Leather steering wheel

Power front seat

Power rear seat

Leather seat

Falling down type rear seat

Child seat fixed with seat belt

Rear ELR3 point seat belt

Front seat pretensioner seat belt

Fourth limited front seat belt

Side impact bar

Airbag (Driver)

Airbag (Passenger)

Airbag (Side)

Audio deck AM/FM radio equipped cassette player

CD-player Single equipment

Car navigation system

Colors

Color spectrum Color

Black

White

Dark grey pearl

Sonic silver (M)

Deep marine blue (P)

Option

Black (super fine hard coat)

White (super fine hard coat)

Dark grey pearl (super fine hard coat)

Sonic silver (M)(super fine hard coat)

Super clear red II (super fine hard coat)

Deep marine blue (P) (super fine hard coat)

Silky snow pearl (3p) OR silky snow pearl (3p) (super fine hard coat)

Hey all,

I’m currently looking at importing a S1 or S2 R33 4 door 5sp GTS25T Type M, and am looking for some information.  I have been searching for specs etc. on the vehicles, but am not having much luck.  I have tried searching the forums, but could not find what I was after either.

Now I’d definitely be looking for a 5sp, and the questions I have are:

1. Is the box the same for the 4 door as the 2 door?

2. Is the diff gearing is in the sedan different to the coupe, as I have seen 1/4 times quoted about 1 sec slower, yet it only weighs 20kg more?

3.  Do they come with the same 4 piston front and 2 piston rear brakes as the coupe?

4.  How much have people paid for their 4 doors from japan?

Thanks for the help

:wavey:  :)

1. yes

2. same

3.same

4.dunno

5spd is hard to find , consider a manual conversion if you find a nice auto at a good price

4. How much have people paid for their 4 doors from japan?

They can come pretty cheap if you look around!!!

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=3714

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=3613

The cheapest manuals go for a premium over the autos though

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=3279

Now I’d definitely be looking for a 5sp, and the questions I have are:

1. Is the box the same for the 4 door as the 2 door?

2. Is the diff gearing is in the sedan different to the coupe, as I have seen 1/4 times quoted about 1 sec slower, yet it only weighs 20kg more?

3.  Do they come with the same 4 piston front and 2 piston rear brakes as the coupe?

4.  How much have people paid for their 4 doors from japan?

1. Same box

2. Not 100 sure, I believe they are the same (mine is) but others have posted a different ratio.

3. Same brakes. Virtually the same car with a different body shape. I doubt most people could tell if a front cut came from a sedan or coupe.

4. not sure (I got mine local) but their are some nice ones in Australia with mods done for around 15000, so you would want to get a good price from Japan.

Cheers for the help people.  4door sleeper, what mods have been done to your 4door for a 13.0 1/4?  cos that is the time that I was aiming for from a 4 door, wanted 13 flat :)

Mods include PFC, GCG Hi flow turbo, 3inch exhaust with split dump pipe, Front Mount, Pod with Cold air partition, Rising Rate Reg, Fuel Pump, Profec B boost Control, Valve body change in the Auto.

Other mods are cosmetic.

So if 4 doors are supposed to have same engine, trans, diff etc. how come the times are roughly 1 sec slower? would it be likely that time is in a auto then?

If buying an auto and do manual conversion, is a new ECU required, ie. is the trans control in the ECU or is this a separate module? The reason Im wondering is because in one of my last cars (EF Fairmont) to go Manual, a manual ECU was a must as the ECU controlled the trans too, and putting in manual and tricking ECU to thinking it was in neutral would cause all sorts of loaded fuelling problems etc.

No the tuning in the Auto computer must be slightly different. HPI states 184kw for the manual and 180kw for the auto. Also torque is down about 15-20Nm..

Sedan vs Coupe. How many kg different - about 20kg to 30kg? So the sedan might be 0.1-0.3 sec over the quarter.

A manual ECU could be had for about 150-250 or go PFC...

Edited by benl1981

and if you have access to Autospeed: http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2740/article.html

Quoted about the R33 RB25DET range:

R33 Skyline

The RB20DET came to an end in mid 1993 it was replaced by a bigger and better version – the 2.5 litre RB25DET.

Fitted to the R33 Skyline GTS25t, the RB25DET has upsized bore and stroke dimensions compared to the older 2-litre version – bore is massively increased from 78 to 86mm and the stroke is stretched from 69.7 to 71.7mm. Interestingly, the RB25DET uses the same bore dimensions as the RB26DETT (so it’s no surprise that the heads are virtually interchangeable). The biggest difference between the RB25DET and RB26DETT cylinder head is the lifters – the ’26 uses bucket-type followers while the ’25 uses hydraulic units.

In addition to its cubic capacity advantage, the RB25DET scores larger diameter inlet runners, an improved cylinder head design, variable inlet cam timing, a larger T28-type ceramic turbo with a slightly larger intercooler and 370cc injectors. The static compression ratio is also bumped up to an aggressive 9:1 to help maintain off-boost performance.

From about 3000 rpm this engine really comes alive. Peak torque (a substantial 294Nm) arrives at 4800 rpm and max power is 187kW at 6400 rpm. This power output is reduced in examples with a 4-speed auto transmission – you’re looking at 180kW and 275Nm.

The RB25DET was also employed in high-performance versions of the Japanese Stagea wagon. Released in late ’96, the Stagea-spec RB25DET produces slightly less power and toque compared to the R33 Skyline version – 173kW and 275Nm. We can only assume this shortfall comes from a restrictive exhaust and air intake and a detuned ECU. The 173kW Stagea engine comes with an auto trans only and an electronic-controlled AWD system.

RB25DETs are popular for tuners and, although there’s currently a good supply, these are relatively expensive engines – although they are cheaper than the more powerful RB26DETT.

The mighty RB26DETT engine was altered for use in the R33-series Skyline GT-R. A slightly improved intercooler and ECU changes (giving more mid-range boost) raised peak torque to 369Nm but, if you can believe the claims, power remained at the Japanese regulation 206kW. Something is a bit fishy there....

Note that the same RB26DETT engine tune was also used in the ultra rare Autech 260RS version of the Stagea. The R33-spec twin-turbo RB26DETT punches out 206kW/369Nm making this one of the quickest wagons in the world. As far as we can tell, the engine and gearbox are identical to the R33 GT-R’s.

auto R33s make less power than their manual counterparts.

From the factory in stock condition the RWKW are slightly less, but I stick by my statement that they are the same engine and will produce the same power.

In these forums we are talking modified cars, so I doubt many people here will be intending to run factory fuel or ignition maps. (and hence the factory ECU is only a starting point)

The auto will reduce RWKW a little more than a manual but it can also substantially increase bottom end torque and virtually eliminate the lag associated with gear changes (as well as beeng a lot cheaper than expensive tripple plate clutch kits)

I appreciate what you're saying 4door sleeper about increasing low down torque with the autos, and no doubt in 1/4 mile can be made just a quick/quicker. However spirited hills is what I enjoy most, and nothing beats the fun of a manual. Im not going for record HP, but I can promise it won't remain standard :P

I searched and searched to find a good Manual R33 4 Door and all the good ones I found were well outa my price range (atleast 4 to 5 grand more expensive), so I settled for an auto. I paid $14 500 for my 93 car with 52 000Kms on it, it came with logbooks and I am the first Australian owner (accept for the car yard). It came with 1 year warranty of which I have got the Ari-Con and a few electrical things fixed. So I couldn't go past it, I bought it knowing I am going to convert it to a Manual so the Auto doesn't phase me that much.

I have heard of places that will convert autos to a manual for under $3000 including parts. And the car yard I got my car from will do it for me for $2500 including a reconditiond box.

So what I am trying to say is that you can get an Auto R33 4door gtst with low Kms for lots less then a manual 4 door R33. Then convert it and you will still work out cheaper.

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...