Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i've finally got the 32r back together and running.. the only problem is that when a mate had the sump draining (upside down off the motor) he didn't realise we hadn't drained the front diff oil and is spilled onto the ground.. the filling bung is stuck solid and we broke 2 breaker/knuckle bars trying to remove it to fill the diff.. :D

my question is can i drive it at 110km/h (which i need to to get it back home) with removing the 4WD fuse so it'll just be spinning with no load?

p.s the guy who accidently drained it out is a qualified mechanic (very good - 20yrs experience) and he says it'll be fine if i drive it smoothly not thrashing it... just want a 2nd opinion... any help would be great :)

Edited by dan_32gtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102417-r32-gtr-front-diff/
Share on other sites

Hey,

Sorry but my post isn't actually helping you. I was just wondering if the front diff gets fluid from the reserviour in the boot (attessa / hicas reserviour), or if it has another one somewhere. I have been having some problems with my 4wd system in my r32 gtr but didn't even think to check the front diff....

Hey,

Sorry but my post isn't actually helping you. I was just wondering if the front diff gets fluid from the reserviour in the boot (attessa / hicas reserviour), or if it has another one somewhere. I have been having some problems with my 4wd system in my r32 gtr but didn't even think to check the front diff....

Front diff (like the back one) is not connected to the ATTESSA reservoir. It doesn't have one at all. If you are hacing probs with the 4WD system check the error codes on the module under the parcel shelf.

Edited by djr81
hey guys

i've finally got the 32r back together and running.. the only problem is that when a mate had the sump draining (upside down off the motor) he didn't realise we hadn't drained the front diff oil and is spilled onto the ground.. the filling bung is stuck solid and we broke 2 breaker/knuckle bars trying to remove it to fill the diff.. :P

my question is can i drive it at 110km/h (which i need to to get it back home) with removing the 4WD fuse so it'll just be spinning with no load?

p.s the guy who accidently drained it out is a qualified mechanic (very good - 20yrs experience) and he says it'll be fine if i drive it smoothly not thrashing it... just want a 2nd opinion... any help would be great  :D

Even though it is not transmitting power, the diff is still going round. So if there is no oil in it, there is still a large likelihood of it going bang.

Front diff (like the back one) is not connected to the ATTESSA reservoir.  It doesn't have one at all.  If you are hacing probs with the 4WD system check the error codes on the module under the parcel shelf.

Yeah I found that, the problem is I don't have a manual (to refer it to). I'm going to try and hook it up to a workshop's computer tomorrow and try to find out what it is. All it is, is a little red light flashing (the computer under the parcel shelf) when the 4wd light is illuminated on the dash....Hopefully i'll be able to make some sense of it soon haha.

Edit: So is the diff just something you leave alone and never check / refresh the oil in? Sorry but my mechanical knowledge is fairly limited at this stage. Still got alot to learn :P

Edited by randominsanity73

Dan,

This may be a bit of a long(ish) shot, but from memory the front diff has a breather attached. I think (From memory, again) that the end of the breather pipe bolts up to the underside of the induction manifold. If you can find this & trace it, it may be possible to get some fluid into the diff via the breather.

Just a thought.

Richard

Isn't the diff alot like the gearbox in its oil requirements?

very thin oil (with particular properties - of which I have no idea)

very level sensitive (too little and too much is bad)

but doesn't tend to leak, and can be left for a long time?

I'd say find the correct level (and oil), and fix it.

Sure, it *might* be fine. Do you want to find out for real?

And the diff is not connected directly to attessa. Its driven by the driveshaft, which does not spin (and hence provides no torque) till attessa engages it.

"Doom, Doom and gloom, I say"

Does the diff have ANY oil in it? If it has, then I wouldn't see a problem. But I still wouldn't be caning it, even at 110 (maybe 80).

The diff will be going roundy-roundy, because the front wheels will be driving it.

Oil is a standard 80w90 Gear Oil (like Castrol Hypoy 90).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...