Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a series 2 PM35 and I can tell you now that getting a new valve body isn't as easy as it seems. It might just be that I'm in the NT but my valve body has died on me and it's been a massive job trying to find a new valve body for the car.

Only recently I found out that the valve body in a pm35 box has a mechatronic unit that needs to be programmed with the vehicles VIN number to work. Next was trying to find a new valve body assembly, couldn't find a shop in australia that could sell me one to suit my car. I finally found a company in Vic that had a contact in Japan, they found the part number I needed however nissan don't sell the valve body assembly anymore. The contact in Japan is now going to the manufacturers of the valve body and asking if it would be possible to get 1 more unit made.

I don't know if anyone else has had this problem before but it's definitely putting me off keeping my stagea.

I doubt anyone else would care much, as they would simply fit a second hand box or repair the one they had.

I don't get what the issue is, it's a 10 year old car after all, and I am sure your box only has a small issue needing repair. You don't buy a rare JDM import and expect gearboxes to be in stock locally, or any parts for that matter.

I would go a second hand box if there was someone here that could program the mechatronic unit. Nissan have told me they don't want to program anything unless I buy the whole box from them

I would go a second hand box if there was someone here that could program the mechatronic unit. Nissan have told me they don't want to program anything unless I buy the whole box from them

I think they call that blackmail.

Is this reprogramming the mechtronic really a thing. Sounds like the biggest load of shit. Maybe if you were trying to put a box from a different model car. But surely if you are putting in a second hand stagea box it will be all good. Maybe I am wrong, but just doesn't sound right.

^That's what I thought, sounds like the perfect time to go manual. If you're lashing out a ton of cash you might as well get some fun out of it once the dust settles.

Was highly considering going manual but would be a massive stuff around changing the foot handbrake to a normal one. Also getting a manual centre console and dash to fit from a v35 might not fit

I never understood how people claim the Autobox in the turbo 33 and 34 skylines are "good up to 300kw". All 3 I've owned have had slip on a completely stock car just with a boost increase to 10 psi. At 7psi they hold, any more than that I can feel the engine pulling more than the actual car is accelerating. People say just buy a new auto box they are cheap but the used ones do the same thing. Maybe I was unlucky or maybe people just cant tell when a auto box is slipping and just think its "good". It will last for many years slipping but you are just wasting power not putting it to the wheels.

It seems pointless to me to just keep throwing stock auto boxes in unless the car is completely stock power wise. The only thing I haven't tried is one with a shift kit, but I was quoted over $1500 to have one installed and at the time it was cheaper to just replace it with a used one but doesn't seem to be the case as you are just spending money for the same problem. The clutch packs in the stock auto box just don't hold on hard enough imo. Afterwards I figured shift kit actually press the clutches together harder thus allowing more power to be transferred to the wheels and preventing wearing out the clutch packs. I think I figured this out too late as I assumed shift kit just makes the autobox transition from one gear to the next faster, i.e "slam the gears", not able to make it hold more power. If that's the case this is how they should come factory as in stock form the they are really lax.

I never understood how people claim the Autobox in the turbo 33 and 34 skylines are "good up to 300kw". All 3 I've owned have had slip on a completely stock car just with a boost increase to 10 psi. At 7psi they hold, any more than that I can feel the engine pulling more than the actual car is accelerating. People say just buy a new auto box they are cheap but the used ones do the same thing. Maybe I was unlucky or maybe people just cant tell when a auto box is slipping and just think its "good". It will last for many years slipping but you are just wasting power not putting it to the wheels.

It seems pointless to me to just keep throwing stock auto boxes in unless the car is completely stock power wise. The only thing I haven't tried is one with a shift kit, but I was quoted over $1500 to have one installed and at the time it was cheaper to just replace it with a used one but doesn't seem to be the case as you are just spending money for the same problem. The clutch packs in the stock auto box just don't hold on hard enough imo. Afterwards I figured shift kit actually press the clutches together harder thus allowing more power to be transferred to the wheels and preventing wearing out the clutch packs. I think I figured this out too late as I assumed shift kit just makes the autobox transition from one gear to the next faster, i.e "slam the gears", not able to make it hold more power. If that's the case this is how they should come factory as in stock form the they are really lax.

If the clutches and bands are genuinely slipping, its hard to imagine it lasting years in that state. You'd be wearing the friction material off, like riding the clutch in a manual.

There is lucky to be half a mm of material on the clutches, one good slip and she's toast in most cases. I know as I have been there twice now, and building an auto isn't cheap.

A shift kit is like increasing the tension on a manual clutch pressure plate springs, much less likely to slip, but when it does there is even more heat involved. A built box includes placing extra clutch plates (power clutch packs) to help increase the surface area, similar to installing a twin plate manual clutch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...